Technical Engine oil grade for my B

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Technical Engine oil grade for my B

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May 23, 2007
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Hi. i know there is lots of threads on this subject but would just like to clarify something regarding my B.

My B now has 37500miles on, and i originaly purchased her in may 2007 with 24,000 and full service history with DTR and so the variator has also been replaced. She had never been modified prior to me owning her and never taken to the extremes i might.

I have since done some engine mods which include gsr induction, complete supersprint exhaust system, uprated fuel pump and fuel pressure regulater and use Ngk irridium sparks.
She has been remapped and now pushes 152bhp.

I must say that my driving is usually quite spirited and hence I have regulary changed the oil and filter at every 2500mile intervals and when in the uk last used castrol magnetec. I cant remeber the grade, must have been 10/40.

Since moving over to Cyprus i have changed the oil once and tried a 5/40 fully sinthetic oil.

My B has allways run quiet with no top end rattle and any signs of burning oil but the other day at another 2500mile interval, I checked the oil and it had lost approx 1ltr.

My questions are:
Was switching the oil a good or bad idea and due to the warmer climate change here in Cyprus and considering the modifications carried out to my B and my driving style,
what would you reccomend the correct grade of oil to use and at what intervals changes and would have switching grades have caused the loss of oil.

I should also mention that i will soon be adding the Turbo and so would also like to know if this would indeed change the matter again.

Would appreciate your thoughts and opinions.
 
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You moved to a warmer climate and used a thinner oil?! You should be doing the exact opposite! Personally I would go for Selenia racing 10W60 and change every 5,000 miles max.

The fact that you have lost so much oil proves the viscosity is too low.
 
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Right! I spent yesterdays evening reading threads regarding oil and their grades.There is lots of info and believe I have a better understanding of multi grade oils and as i have gathered. the something no. w example: (5w40) the lower the no. before the w is the oils viscisity at cold start. The no. after w is its viscosity operating temp when hot.

So in theory a 5w oil will have better viscosity at cold start than a 10w. and and will lubricate the engine more faster, and a 0w even faster.

The 40grade will be thinner than 50 and 50 thinner than 60.

The B is listed or reccomended to use a 10/40 or 10/60 oil. But that would have been the grade listed at the time of manufacture.

As long as you keep the within the 40-60 grade you should be ok. (correct me if i,m wrong) but switching to a lesser w grade before should be better.

In todays times, it seems oils have considerely been improoved and a latest spec 0w or 5w should perform better on cold starts than a 10w.

Someone please tell me if this is correct and which leaves me with what would be the best possible oil to use in my B?
 
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15/40 Semi is what I was told.

No! no way. check out the threads re engine oil.

I guess not everyones motors are in the same condition and driven the same way but would expect the oil grades reccomended for a particular motor car at the time of manufacture have their parameters set to cover for this.

Over time depending on ones driving style, wear and tear on the engine may differ and may bennifit from thinner or thicker grades.
As i have gathered from the info avaliable, a 15w oil will have a poorer viscosity than a 10 or lower when at cold start. Surely this will lead to more premature and unessary wear to the engine.
So an engine in good working order should benifit from a better quality lower no w in its grade and help the engine last longer.


SOMEONE EXPERT IN THE FIELD ! HELP PLEASE!!!
 
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I always use silkolene 10w50. 10w40 is a tad thin and 10w60 is a tad too thick imo.
 
I always use silkolene 10w50. 10w40 is a tad thin and 10w60 is a tad too thick imo.

10W60 is not too thin if the engine is worked hard. In a warmer climate the last thing you need is the oil breaking down under temperature. Manufacturers spend countless hours testing engines to destruction.

It's not as if they just say, "Oh, lets stick 10W40 in it because we use that for all of our engines".

5W40 is too thin, you need 10W40 minimum. If you lived in a colder climate you would use 0W40 or 5W40 depending on the temperature.

Don't be fooled by thinking thinner is better because it is not.
 
what about 5w50 from Mobile 1 ? Believe that to suit the barchetta because of the varieta problem.
 
10W60 is not too thin if the engine is worked hard. In a warmer climate the last thing you need is the oil breaking down under temperature. Manufacturers spend countless hours testing engines to destruction.

It's not as if they just say, "Oh, lets stick 10W40 in it because we use that for all of our engines".

5W40 is too thin, you need 10W40 minimum. If you lived in a colder climate you would use 0W40 or 5W40 depending on the temperature.

Don't be fooled by thinking thinner is better because it is not.

No need to be flippent, I suggest you read what I wrote and learn what the numbers mean. 10w40 (the rating of magnatec) is thinner when it warms up than 10w50 is, I've suggested a thicker oil (by a better make too) not a thinner oil.
 
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I read what you wrote HgtBill, it wasn't aimed at you, just the first sentance.

No need to patronise me, I understand fully what the numbers mean.

The rule is all responses are aimed at the thread starter unless otherwise stated. I didn't quote you so stop being so defensive.

Ad.
 
Oh a very heated discussion. I don't really like throwing links into forums but here is a very interesting one about this 'black gold' written by a guy who calls himself a 'petrolhead' in the article he even suggests removing the magnets from a HDD to use as a 'custom magnetised oil traps' have a peep HERE http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
STUart
 
I read what you wrote HgtBill, it wasn't aimed at you, just the first sentance.

No need to patronise me, I understand fully what the numbers mean.

The rule is all responses are aimed at the thread starter unless otherwise stated. I didn't quote you so stop being so defensive.

Ad.

You have quoted me, have a look.
 
You wait, the doc will now offer for you to drive over to his place and he will talk you through doing it in <30mins.

And he won't be joking or exaggerating. Just don't let him persuade you to experimentally shoehorn into your engine bay a 3.5l V8 from an Alfa Montreal that is hanging around his garage for some reason.
 
You wait, the doc will now offer for you to drive over to his place and he will talk you through doing it in <30mins.

And he won't be joking or exaggerating. Just don't let him persuade you to experimentally shoehorn into your engine bay a 3.5l V8 from an Alfa Montreal that is hanging around his garage for some reason.

:yeahthat:
 
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