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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #16
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Re: Headgasket guide!

I've done a top end rebuild on my Clio 172 engine so I would say I'm capabale. Got all the tools I should need at my disposal apart from any engine specific timing tools. I was just hoping there would be some sort of guide written up somewhere for these Abarth T jet engines, the same as there is for the Clio 172 engines, rather than just start taking it apart and hoping for the best!
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #17
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Arrow Re: Headgasket guide!

Why not (taking apart, etc.)?
If there is no guide...make one! Someone has to.
Just document your work and share the pictures (and/or videos) with descriptions = done, we have a Guide.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #18
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Re: Headgasket guide!

None of the Haynes manuals cover T-jet versions. Although they're very generic always.

This link has eLearn workshop manual for the T-jet version. It may be helpful although it's not complete.


http://4cardata.info/elearn/199/2/19...0001/199000397
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #19
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Re: Headgasket guide!

I've done a few headgaskets , Mini ,ford escort , peugeot pickup, and I got the head skimmed before I stuck them back together...there was an engineering works in Lancaster that did 'emwith a very quick turn around .. However here in Crete I did cheap fix on a fiat panda in the street outside the house and just whacked on a new gasket ...and it worked fine... for a few more years ...and then the gearbox went ...and I had too many projects and I scraped it ...I wish I'd kept it now ...
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #20
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Re: Headgasket guide!

Having owned 40 FIATs..
Ive done my share

Only one I had issues with... fixed for a relative.. I suspect they cooked it..
Pumped oil into cylinder 5 mins into road test car was an ebay purchase with all signs of a HG replacement being done the week before..)
So I just sold it as a project.. not worth days of my investigation..


My own gave me fair warning.. so no repeats

Last panda I had to do HG twice..six weeks apart (heater matrix had failed)
Swapped mayrix and new gasket with bolts

Did another 6 years without issue

I had none machined..all appeared flat

Panda on 2nd failure got checked on a milling machine with a DTI..


I too cannot believe there is no HG info.. your motor has been around for 15 years.

Figure out the Portuguese for Head Gasket

The t.jet was probably sold in Brazil 1st
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Last edited by varesecrazy; 2 Weeks Ago at 09:46.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #21
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Re: Headgasket guide!

Quote Originally Posted by varesecrazy View Post
It does sound like HG..

I wasnt expecting the dash of oil to change anything..

Are you capable of doing it yourself?

Its a days work.. but need all the right handtools...
I agree, this certainly has many of the indicators for a failed head gasket but the fact that all four spark plugs are looking the same is bothering me (all four equally fouled with no signs or rusty or washed out difference on 2 and/or 3). I'm not feeling that we yet have a definitive diagnosis of the gasket having failed.

I mentioned in another thread recently about a cylinder leak down test and I think you might learn a bit more if you did one here. A lot of better equipped workshops should have the gear to do it. Without going into detail, it uses compressed air, introduced into each cylinder in turn, with both valves in the cylinder being tested in the closed position. The equipment then measures the %age of leak for each cylinder - which I don't actually pay too much attention to, unless it's showing something ridiculous, but what can be very valuable is that the compressed air will escape anywhere it possibly can! So, if an inlet valve is not sealing you will hear a hiss from the inlet (best to take the air filter off first and I like to use a length of small diameter flexible hose stuck in my ear so I can stick the other end into the air intake). An exhaust valve will hiss from the exhaust. (bit of tubing in the ear is an even better idea here too - saves a very dirty ear!) Excessive piston blowby hisses from the oil filler, or other crankcase orifice of your choosing and head gasket to water passage failure gives lots of easy to see bubbles in the radiator header. There's a lot more you can diagnose with it too:
https://www.aa1car.com/library/leakd...0spark%20plugs.

The piston blowby hiss can be difficult to asses because there will always be ring leakage but after you've listened to a few you soon get to know how loud a hiss is about right. The leak guage is a big help for this too.

I was really the only one in our workshop to use this tool much and I liked it so much that I made my own cheapo version to use at home by smashing the ceramic out of a couple of different spark plugs (one short reach "standard 14mm and one from a Ford Pinto) and brazed a male airline connector to them so I could introduce compressed air into the cylinders. No gauges of course but you can tell a lot from the where the hisses are coming from and how loud they are! Now a days I see the kits for sale on ebay for under 20 so I think I'd just buy one.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #22
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Re: Headgasket guide!

Quote Originally Posted by varesecrazy View Post
I had none machined..all appeared flat
Interesting Charlie. We had a nice big Moore and Wright engineers straight edge in our workshop. All heads were checked using this in multiple positions with feelers. In line, corner to corner and diagonally. As long as you couldn't get a 1.5, maybe 2, thou feeler under it you were good to go.

I've never been a fan of just automatically facing off a head "just in case" and some you can't anyway because of their design. (I seem to remember the Ford 1600 crossflows were the first like that I bumped into - a flat faced head with combustion chambers formed in the piston crowns. If you tried to surface the head you soon found you were chewing into valve seats I think?). I haven't done more than a couple of diesels but I know they can be particularly difficult if you mill/grind the face because they often have selective thickness gaskets on reassembly - take too much metal off and you really are into the "sticky stuff" depending on piston design ie, protrusion. We actually had a slightly less long straight edge so you could check block deck faces as well but I never found one that wasn't perfectly flat (or as near as) so it saw very little use.

Now, at home, I check heads using a length of ground steel flat stock which was given to me by an engineering shop near me when I was into rebuilding Imp engines. Checked on their big surface plate and I couldn't get even my thinnest feeler between it and the surface plate over the entire length of the bar.

PS. always checked the block face/cylinder tops on the imps though!
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Last edited by Pugglt Auld Jock; 2 Weeks Ago at 12:00.
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