Mike1alike
Established member
Thank you for your answer, Jock. And yes, I am very much awake.
I've replaced all the seals on the engine, the ones on the cylinder head, valve seals and those of the engine at both ends, clutch and flywheel.
A good engine oil creates a film on the engine parts so that there is no friction between parts, hence no wear. That is what I'm after, a good protective film. And for that film, I'm thinking is not too good to use thinner oil, especially in the winter. You'll get no film, the oil just runs through.
As for the oil additives, I did use once Liqui Moly MoS2 and I just watched this youtube video now
https://youtu.be/UnNahISE_nU
I don't consider that test to be relevant at all and I find this comment below the video to be legit:
"The origin of this product was in WW2, when Rommel's tanks in Africa had difficults to get oil supply and the germans sent molibden in powder and put it with WATER in the engines, and worked. Later, Fangio tested a car that was filled with regular oil + liqui moly, then drained all the oil and without any lubricant except the protective molibden film left , drove the car 160 km at high speed in the Buenos Aires Autodromo. After inspection, the engine had no damage at all. Since then I use it in every vehicle I've had. My fist was a Ducati bike, and when our bikers group inspected our engines, mine always was in the best conditions, no signs of wear. The principle is that the molibden particles adeheres ONLY in the parts where more friction are, forming a physical shield in the (rare) event that oil fail to lubricate. Specially on engine cold starts. So, is an extra protection with no cons and cheap. BTW I have never need any kind of engine repair in my long life."
I used that additive exactly after replacing the engine seals and I was still missing oil from the engine. In the end, it turned out that I was losing oil through the rocker cover gasket as I just put a new gasket without sealing product. After sealing the gasket, all is good.
After I put the additive in the oil, the engine ran very smoothly, much better than before and mind you, before I woldn't complain on how the engine runs, but now it ran just like a new engine, smooth.
It did not do me any good on lost oil as I later discovered where I was losing oil. And by the time of discovering, a lot of enhanced oil got lost and I just topped it up with only oil.
Since then I'm thinking about what to do on next oil change: use liqui moly mos2 again or use that Motul 10W50 that I've mentioned.
And I am thinking about that because i saw this mentioned somewere: the oil specs work just fine on new engines, on used enginges it helps a lot to use a thicker oil. It makes sense to me because there is some wear on the rings, although a very small wear. And I don't think that that difference between 40 an 50 would oil starve parts of the engine. Or does it? I think this is the real question.
I think this sums it up then. I'll be usig regular recommended oil, 10W40 plus LM MoS2.
My engine is working just fine, like a charm mate, no knocks or anything. The ring wear on the other hand, as the engine has some milage on it and I have not touched the rings, I'm thinking there is some wear, although they are not damaged, it's not critical.When, as you are here, thinking about the hot viscosity, which is where the 40 or 50 or whatever comes in, I think you need to think carefully about more than maybe the engine burning a little oil due to ring wear or because you are maybe trying to quieten a slightly knocking big end.
I've replaced all the seals on the engine, the ones on the cylinder head, valve seals and those of the engine at both ends, clutch and flywheel.
A good engine oil creates a film on the engine parts so that there is no friction between parts, hence no wear. That is what I'm after, a good protective film. And for that film, I'm thinking is not too good to use thinner oil, especially in the winter. You'll get no film, the oil just runs through.
As for the oil additives, I did use once Liqui Moly MoS2 and I just watched this youtube video now
https://youtu.be/UnNahISE_nU
I don't consider that test to be relevant at all and I find this comment below the video to be legit:
"The origin of this product was in WW2, when Rommel's tanks in Africa had difficults to get oil supply and the germans sent molibden in powder and put it with WATER in the engines, and worked. Later, Fangio tested a car that was filled with regular oil + liqui moly, then drained all the oil and without any lubricant except the protective molibden film left , drove the car 160 km at high speed in the Buenos Aires Autodromo. After inspection, the engine had no damage at all. Since then I use it in every vehicle I've had. My fist was a Ducati bike, and when our bikers group inspected our engines, mine always was in the best conditions, no signs of wear. The principle is that the molibden particles adeheres ONLY in the parts where more friction are, forming a physical shield in the (rare) event that oil fail to lubricate. Specially on engine cold starts. So, is an extra protection with no cons and cheap. BTW I have never need any kind of engine repair in my long life."
I used that additive exactly after replacing the engine seals and I was still missing oil from the engine. In the end, it turned out that I was losing oil through the rocker cover gasket as I just put a new gasket without sealing product. After sealing the gasket, all is good.
After I put the additive in the oil, the engine ran very smoothly, much better than before and mind you, before I woldn't complain on how the engine runs, but now it ran just like a new engine, smooth.
It did not do me any good on lost oil as I later discovered where I was losing oil. And by the time of discovering, a lot of enhanced oil got lost and I just topped it up with only oil.
Since then I'm thinking about what to do on next oil change: use liqui moly mos2 again or use that Motul 10W50 that I've mentioned.
And I am thinking about that because i saw this mentioned somewere: the oil specs work just fine on new engines, on used enginges it helps a lot to use a thicker oil. It makes sense to me because there is some wear on the rings, although a very small wear. And I don't think that that difference between 40 an 50 would oil starve parts of the engine. Or does it? I think this is the real question.
Thank you for your answer as well, Charlie.Motorcycle oil is a compromise..:
I think this sums it up then. I'll be usig regular recommended oil, 10W40 plus LM MoS2.