Tuning Recommend Cold Air Intakes

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Tuning Recommend Cold Air Intakes

SammyBDJ

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Hi All,

Im from Australia, and looking for the best cold air intake for Abarth 500 SS.

I ordered one recently from http://www.gtt.uk.com/abarth.asp and have been stuffed around after paying for it and still haven't received it..

Looking at other options at the moment!

Thanks =]
 
Hi All,

Im from Australia, and looking for the best cold air intake for Abarth 500 SS.

I ordered one recently from http://www.gtt.uk.com/abarth.asp and have been stuffed around after paying for it and still haven't received it..

Looking at other options at the moment!

Thanks =]
The GTT is the one sold by TMC motorsport and it seems to be the preferred CAI. Needs the hose kit as well.
http://www.tmcmotorsport.com/Abarth_Engine.aspx

How long have you waiting for the one you ordered ?

Personally I prefer the look of the Simota but it isn't as good but you can squeeze in a strut brace.
http://www.abarthforum.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=8470.0;attach=18490;image

Often wondered if the Assetto corsa setup with the bonnet vents was the way to go for the ultimate setup.
 
I find it difficult to believe that either of those will actually draw in cold air! I mean, "let's place it right at the back of the engine bay, as high as we can................. after all, everyone knows air travels forwards in a moving vehicle and cold air rises, doesn't it?"

If you're prepared to get dirt under your fingernails, there are examples of good practice in most of the turbocharging books..........
 
I find it difficult to believe that either of those will actually draw in cold air! I mean, "let's place it right at the back of the engine bay, as high as we can................. after all, everyone knows air travels forwards in a moving vehicle and cold air rises, doesn't it?"

If you're prepared to get dirt under your fingernails, there are examples of good practice in most of the turbocharging books..........

GTT claim to get at least 8bhp from their CAI system but the term CAI is probably incorrect. On the Grand Punto Abarth setup there's a different setup but I've seen no RR graph illustrating any bhp increases.
 
I sometimes wonder why something like the intake below isn't an option

New-Subaru-Legacy-07-08-Carbon-Fiber-Air-Intake.jpg
 
I find it difficult to believe that either of those will actually draw in cold air! I mean, "let's place it right at the back of the engine bay, as high as we can................. after all, everyone knows air travels forwards in a moving vehicle and cold air rises, doesn't it?"

If you're prepared to get dirt under your fingernails, there are examples of good practice in most of the turbocharging books..........

The point to note on both is that neither claim to be a CAI - just an induction kit aimed at improving air flow into the induction system (volume rather than density).

I can certainly vouch for how impossibly warm that corner of the engine bay gets on my seicento - I had to remove the shrouding on the cabin ventilation system to make space for the throttle bodies. The result is that only on the coldest of days can I actually get something resembling "cool" air into the cabin. It now draws out of the engine bay (adding an interesting aroma of partially ignited fuel when the throttle bodies hiccup) and it is most definitely *not* cold.

All of that said it is unwise to make any assumptions about what parts of an engine bay are actually cool. The airflow is remarkably complex and often turbulent. I used to improve the induction on X1/9s but throwing away the huge toroid filter and housing and replacing it with a tiny chrome cased filter. The flow through the chrome casing was comparable to the originals but it didn't collect hot air rising off the engine when the car stopped moving and once the original got hot it tended to stay that way (not helped by the inlet manifold being water "cooled"). The extra space also improved airflow at the top end permitting cooler air flow as well. Not a CIA in sight and there is nowhere to put one on such a midengined car anyway without sticking a huge snorkel on the back.

In practical terms for the A500 you do need to get some properly ducted air in but the nature of the front end pretty much precludes the obvious ducting frm the front lip of the bonnet or through the bumper. Corse style bonnets add the much needed scoops and vents that would resolve that particular facet - otherwise you're getting into the butchery of the existing bodywork. Not something I would want to get into... I guess you could sacrifice one of the fog lights to create an opening though...
 
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From a pure sonic perspective, GSR all the way. It adds a few hp and lbs/ft as well but its worth it for the noise alone. Just stay away from deep puddles. Granted Herr Hoffman is not the easiest character to contact but the product is ace.
 
From a pure sonic perspective, GSR all the way. It adds a few hp and lbs/ft as well but its worth it for the noise alone. Just stay away from deep puddles. Granted Herr Hoffman is not the easiest character to contact but the product is ace.
I thought his name was Pete. Is he still doing CAIs ?

On jimbro1000's idea of using a fog light opening as a cold air input the US have done that on one of the earlier designs for the NA 1.4. Got the impression that the extra drag created from the 'ram air effect' negated any advantages. Some have used these fog openings for keeping the brakes cool on track days.
 
Bolt on solutions are unlikely to be as effective as properly engineered ones. They're also likely to be overpriced.

Some general points:

1. What you really, really want is more volume, higher density.
2. Most aerodynamicists will state that ram air is not effective at speeds below 120mph (or more).
3. Turbulence and stalled airflow are pretty much unavoidable within an engine compartment.
4. Rolling road figures are unlikely to mean much with regard to air intakes unless combined with a wind tunnel with a moving floor surface -- you don't drive along with the bonnet open and a 3 foot fan strapped to the front of the car!
5. Air will find its own way in if you allow it a path out, so, vents before scoops! Vents will tend to reduce turbulence and increase air flow.
6. NACA ducts are wonderful, but must have sharp, hard edges -- the molded ones you see with rounded edges are a travesty, made that way because they're much easier to pop out of the mold. NACA ducts must open into a void and not be connected to ducting.
7. There are relatively cheap and easy to fit air temperature measuring devices out there. They'd be useful for development.
 
trying to get more cold air too the filter has been proven to not work. (sprint tests)
taking the filter to the cold air has been proven to work.
cutting sections out of the bulkhead (firewall?) seal to let heat out has been proven to work, and that one is free!
 
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Going back to the original post on the ultimate CAI for the A500, TMC sell the genuine Assetto corse CAI kit for a mouth watering £995. Looking at the bhp figures it's churning out 200bhp with it using a Garrett turbo and the M32 gearbox ( torque increase). Unsure what is added from the CAI but the filter looks relatively small with it's using a NACA duct as referred to by fingers99. It does appear it's plenty big enough.

Checking out the MX5 with it's ram air setup from Jackson (I had one of this) this added 14bhp with the timing advanced to 14deg (old school) and the thermostat was changed to lower the temperature from 180deg to 160deg. This bhp was only noticeable at around 60-70 mph. Recent designs are now using the NACA duct in the pop headlamp so the Corse setup would appear to be the way to go.

P.S. the fog lamp opening that I referred to on an earlier post should have said the DRL.

EDIT:
Adding a few links for the MX5 and pictures of the Assetto Corse setup...
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=10237
http://www.miata.net/products/intex/jrcai.html
http://revlimiter.net/mods/duct.php

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Dqtd0Az9aBU#!
 

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Going back to the original post on the ultimate CAI for the A500, TMC sell the genuine Assetto corse CAI kit for a mouth watering £995. Looking at the bhp figures it's churning out 200bhp with it using a Garrett turbo and the M32 gearbox ( torque increase). Unsure what is added from the CAI but the filter looks relatively small with it's using a NACA duct as referred to by fingers99. It does appear it's plenty big enough.

Checking out the MX5 with it's ram air setup from Jackson (I had one of this) this added 14bhp with the timing advanced to 14deg (old school) and the thermostat was changed to lower the temperature from 180deg to 160deg. This bhp was only noticeable at around 60-70 mph. Recent designs are now using the NACA duct in the pop headlamp so the Corse setup would appear to be the way to go.

P.S. the fog lamp opening that I referred to on an earlier post should have said the DRL.

EDIT:
Adding a few links for the MX5 and pictures of the Assetto Corse setup...
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=10237
http://www.miata.net/products/intex/jrcai.html
http://revlimiter.net/mods/duct.php

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Dqtd0Az9aBU#!

Love the remote reservoir dampers mounted with cable ties :) I remember Mark Elvin had a nice big argument with me saying that they should be mounted solidly to the chassis rather than with cable ties :p
 
Love the remote reservoir dampers mounted with cable ties :) I remember Mark Elvin had a nice big argument with me saying that they should be mounted solidly to the chassis rather than with cable ties :p

I didn't know that they were and had to look it up (Click here). Sounds like the next best thing after coilovers. Probably helps the 'handling' - surprised at the wheels lifting on that youtube link but at least it didn't flip over.
 
Sounds like the next best thing after coilovers. Probably helps the 'handling' - surprised at the wheels lifting on that youtube link but at least it didn't flip over.

Wheels lifting will be down to roll stiffness. Everything in the Pug series lifts a rear wheel, as do a fair few touring cars.

But, for road use, coil overs have no advantages -- they're not better per se and have distinct limitations when faced with "stutter bumps". Most top end coil overs will have remotes (and probably cost well into 4 figures for a set).
 
Wheels lifting will be down to roll stiffness. Everything in the Pug series lifts a rear wheel, as do a fair few touring cars.

But, for road use, coil overs have no advantages -- they're not better per se and have distinct limitations when faced with "stutter bumps". Most top end coil overs will have remotes (and probably cost well into 4 figures for a set).
I don't agree. Coilovers can be corner weighted and are generally of better quality thank regular dampers. Why would coilovers have limitations when faced with stutter bumps anyway?
 
Only a masochist (or an idiot) corner weights a road car. The reason is simple -- if I have a passenger, or put something in the boot, the corner weights alter very dramatically. Like, I'm going to get out my scales and re-do it............... sure.

Per se = as such. £ for £ coilovers are generally of inferior quality to aftermarket shocks. Look at the crap FK are pushing out to the FAT CAR generation.

Any strut's reaction to a bump is to bend. This applies to both standard struts and coilovers in Mac Strut configuration. BUT, "normal" struts have offset springs which act to counteract the bending. Hence they react much better to stutter bumps. Unfortunately, bikers just have to put up with them.

Strangely, I found this in black and white from the technical head of the UKs largest specialist coil-over dealer!
 
well, when I talk about coilovers I mean decent ones like Bilstein's :)

Corner weighting on a race car could be considered silly, you burn fuel off which affects the balance of the car. But if you usually go for a drive on your own, then to corner weight the car with yourself and a half a tank of fuel makes sense :)
 
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