Technical SEAT 850 Spider no spark and no dipped headlights and rear lights

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Technical SEAT 850 Spider no spark and no dipped headlights and rear lights

tomsalt

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Oct 20, 2019
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Hi Guys, New here. Broke down the other day due to my own stupiditity - rotor arm cam loose and flew off due me bolting the rotor to the distibutor as I didn't have correct screws to screw into the distribtor. The nuts worked loos, the rotor arm broke off and I was stranded. Anyway, got towed home and i replaced rotor arm and fixed properly but find I have absolutely no spark. I do all the usual things - replaced condensor, checked coil with multimeter. I then discover that I have no rear lights working or side lights nor boot/bonnet illuminating lights. As they were working before, could this be related to lack of spark? All relays seem to be working. I'm at a total loss. Any suggestions? Many thanks
 
PS Forgot to mention it has an electronic ignition unit clipped onto the coil. I disconnected just in case this was the problem but made no difference.
 
Forgot to mention that there is an electronic ignition unit attached to the coil.I bypassed this just in case but still no spark.
 
Sorry if it seems like basic advice, but are all the fuses still good? Do you have voltage at the terminals (measured to ground) on either side of the fuses when it should be there?

Fuses can look good, but if they have poor contact they may not actually flow current. Perhaps this is a culprit?
 
Thanks for reply. I only visually checked all fuses under the dash and gave them a little turn. I'll do a voltage check on each one and make sure there is good contact. Good advice but I doubt this is the problem. Will report back later today.
 
Hi, Checked fuses and lo and behold, fuse no 1 was the culprit - dodgy contact due to a bit of oxidisation - cleaned and now lights are fine. So that's a relief! Alas, still no spark so unrelated. Just can't understand it. Wire from positive side of coil to distributor has good continuity, I have changed and changed back the condenser, I have filed points lightly and reset at 16 though, I have checked resistance on coil and all correct. What am I missing? Ignition red light lights up on dash. I'm completely flummoxed. However, the lack of spark occurred after the catastrophic failure of rotor arm which unscrewed itself due to me bolting it on because I didn't have correct threads for the rotor arm screws. Any other thoughts anybody? Could there be some odd relay not working hidden somewhere?
 
Forgot to mention, there's an electronic ignition unit attached to the coil. I did disconnect and assumed there would still be a complete ignition circuit just in case but made no difference but it is currently connected as it was.
 
Hi Tom

in my experience with these dissys. where the wire from the coil is connected to the dissy where the 8mm bolt is, it connects through the rubber block to the cable on the inside. Often the small bolt corrodes and doesn't connect through, Or the rubber block has softened and then earths the bolt.

basically do a continuity test from the coil to the points contact tip.

i hope this helps

Tim
 
Cheers Tim, I shall investigate tonight. I had checked the rubber insulating block visually and it appeared to be fine but take on board what you suggest. It really is strange that with interchanging all relevant components, there's absolutely no sign of a spark. Battery is fully charged BTW. Getting my torch ready now. My fingers are crossed.
 
Still no joy - The little rubber block is fine and all contacts clean and tight. May have to get an auto electrician in. It's just such a mystery. Any other suggestions?
 
Hi Tom

have you checked to see if when the rotor arm went wayward it hadnt knocked the pin out of the middle of the dissy cap, it should be lightly sprung and move in/out about 8 to 10 mm.

I dont have experience of "add on" electronic ignition as i either go standard points or a112 type magnetti system.

Tim
 
Hi everybody - A HNY to you all. I'm sorry I never updated final outcome on the above. It turned out to be the points - the insulating washer on the spring had ahem disappeared meaning the circuit was always complete hence no spark. A really simple stupid problem but took me days to fathom.
 
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