Technical Full Wiring Diagrams
- Thread starter djgreg
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Technical Full Wiring Diagrams
Not a common question..
What are you working on..?
What are you working on..?
You only have some now very limited options.
1) see if you can find and buy a KeyLearn USB stick. This was discontinued a couple of years ago and when purchasable was expensive as it had all FCA brands/models on it. Whilst obsolete (I meant to get one but was too late) a contact I have in Fiat UK tech support was unable to find me one anywhere in Europe and "in the office" there were no spares everyone was hanging on to their ones like their life depended on it!
2) See if you can borrow a KeyLearn USB stick - being gold dust and vulnerable then this may prove difficult
bad news over
3) Fiat/FCA in the UK have put all their data on-line via subscription services. you have to register and then can purchase "time" based access
4) In the US you can puchase eLearn for the 500X on CD. Note cheap and could possibly omit EU/rest of the world information (i.e. specific to US models only)
I may be able to help on specific device wiring information but it will have to be very specific and to possibly what problem etc. you are trying to diagnose/learn about.
Thank you for your answers.
I bought a led bar and i want to wire so i can use it as standalone or with high beams on. In order to do that i need to find the wire that turns low beam to high beam. I have the factory bixenon headlights and it would be so much easier if i could find that cable in the engines fuse box.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t9zvbgr6d81ssjx/AABxghPzfLqSQdhOE1fVG_1Ua?dl=0
i found this but its in italian and from the first looks like there is not such cable in the engines fuse box. Ihave to dig deeper.....
I bought a led bar and i want to wire so i can use it as standalone or with high beams on. In order to do that i need to find the wire that turns low beam to high beam. I have the factory bixenon headlights and it would be so much easier if i could find that cable in the engines fuse box.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t9zvbgr6d81ssjx/AABxghPzfLqSQdhOE1fVG_1Ua?dl=0
i found this but its in italian and from the first looks like there is not such cable in the engines fuse box. Ihave to dig deeper.....
Well being Bi-Xenon the High/Low beam actuation is done via a solenoid flap within the headlight unit. The lamp is either ON or OFF.
In the article you posted a link to then Page 62 shows the basic setup. A ground, a power feed and signal/solenoid feed all under the control of the body computer. A simplistic view of the actual wiring.
What you can't see, unless you have other pages is the headlamp connector wiring.
Taking just the FRONT RIGHT headlamp the connector is F011. This is a round connector with 8 sockets.
As you look at the end of the connector then the pins are numbered from 1 o-clock clock-wise as 1, 3, 7, 8, 6 and two. The inner two horizontal ones are NOT connected.
Pin Size Colour Connector Item/None
3 0.5 HL goes to M001D on BODYCOMPUTER (FRONT) - Pin 14
4 1.0 N goes to C011 on RIGHTFRONT EARTH-
5 1.0 HN goes to M001C on BODYCOMPUTER (FRONT) - Pin 3
6 0.35 GH goes to D001 on FRONT/DASHBOARDCOUPLING - Pin 6
7 0.5 V goes to M001C on BODYCOMPUTER (FRONT) - Pin 5
8 0.5 NV goes to C011 on RIGHTFRONT EARTH-
Looking at the wire gauges then Pin 5 should be the +12V main power feed. I suspect that Pin 6 is a sense/enunciation feed. Pin 3 or Pin 7 will be the solenoid (high/low) feed.
I think you will need a very low current drain relay to operate off the high/low feed otherwise you could upset or even possibly damage the body computer.
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Hello. Thank you for your answer. You just confirmed my thoughts! I dont want to mess up with the computer so maybe the only way is if i take the command for the relay from the headlight switch and pray that this command sends 12volts to the computer and then the computer sends the small signal to the headlight. What do you think?
Headlight switch on the lower dashboard area (rotary) will just signal to the body computer to turn the headlamps on.
The steering column stalk switch that does the dip / main / flash could be a CAN-Bus based control unit in which case there will be no 12V signal to intercept.
Another thought just crossed my mind. In the MOT test the LED bar might be considered to be a "daylight running light". If this is the case then daylight running lights HAVE TO DIM when the main headlamps come on.
I'm not sure what you LED bar is intended to do? On when ignition is ON? Off when headlamps on dipped beam and On when on main beam?
The steering column stalk switch that does the dip / main / flash could be a CAN-Bus based control unit in which case there will be no 12V signal to intercept.
Another thought just crossed my mind. In the MOT test the LED bar might be considered to be a "daylight running light". If this is the case then daylight running lights HAVE TO DIM when the main headlamps come on.
I'm not sure what you LED bar is intended to do? On when ignition is ON? Off when headlamps on dipped beam and On when on main beam?
The circuit i want to make is very simple. Just a 4 pin relay and a 3way switch.
The switch will be somewhere in the dashboard and it will have 3 conditions.
Switch in position 1 the led bar will not light at all.
Switch in position 2 the led bar will light up on demand no matter the condition of the ignition(ON/OFF).
Switch in position 3 the led bar will light up only when high beams are on.
Obviously i can do very easile condition 1 and 2. The 3rd is the problem.
Maybe there would be 12volts inside the headlights for the small mechanism that converts the low beam to high beam as the lamps are always on.
But it would be hard to wire in there...
The switch will be somewhere in the dashboard and it will have 3 conditions.
Switch in position 1 the led bar will not light at all.
Switch in position 2 the led bar will light up on demand no matter the condition of the ignition(ON/OFF).
Switch in position 3 the led bar will light up only when high beams are on.
Obviously i can do very easile condition 1 and 2. The 3rd is the problem.
Maybe there would be 12volts inside the headlights for the small mechanism that converts the low beam to high beam as the lamps are always on.
But it would be hard to wire in there...
Well that 12V solenoid flap signal will be at the Body Computer. Use a meter to find at the headlamp end which of the wires is responsible and then locate the correct body computer end. (see info previously posted).
See page 47 of the document you linked to earlier for info on the body computer.
Located under the dashboard either on driver's or passenger's side. Pictures on Page 47 will show you what you are looking for.
Located under the dashboard either on driver's or passenger's side. Pictures on Page 47 will show you what you are looking for.
When you're not a young lad any more, you will learn that the "whatever is the least pain in the arris" option, always has some merit.. 
Therefore.. why not do it "analogue"?:
When I fitted some LEDs to my Stilo, I picked up a feed from the dashboard fuse-box and ran it (via a fuse holder) to an illuminated switch I put in using the ashtray blanking plate .
It looks quite nice, I have to say.. but wherever you decide to put your switch, first make sure there is some space behind it, for the body of the switch and the wiring.
Anyway.. the switch was earthed using the nearby cigarette lighter socket (yes, Stilo has a cigarette lighter but you could delete the ashtray... ) and then the feed from the switch went out to the LEDs, which were earthed on the battery or car body.
The LEDs work on the switch. They're connected to the redundant sunroof fuse, which gives you 10-15 seconds of power after the ignition has been turned off... then cuts out.
I don't need LEDs when high beam is on (WTAF for?) and neither do you probably.. That sounds like the trickiest part of what you're trying to do.. and I can't understand what the purpose would be. If you have lights on, the LEDs should be off.
Ralf S.
Therefore.. why not do it "analogue"?:
When I fitted some LEDs to my Stilo, I picked up a feed from the dashboard fuse-box and ran it (via a fuse holder) to an illuminated switch I put in using the ashtray blanking plate .
It looks quite nice, I have to say.. but wherever you decide to put your switch, first make sure there is some space behind it, for the body of the switch and the wiring.
Anyway.. the switch was earthed using the nearby cigarette lighter socket (yes, Stilo has a cigarette lighter but you could delete the ashtray...
) and then the feed from the switch went out to the LEDs, which were earthed on the battery or car body.The LEDs work on the switch. They're connected to the redundant sunroof fuse, which gives you 10-15 seconds of power after the ignition has been turned off... then cuts out.
I don't need LEDs when high beam is on (WTAF for?) and neither do you probably.. That sounds like the trickiest part of what you're trying to do.. and I can't understand what the purpose would be. If you have lights on, the LEDs should be off.
Ralf S.
Well finally i made it. I unpluged the socket of my headlight(bixenon) and i found that pin 7(green with think black line colour) turns to 12volts when high beam is on. So i connected that to my relay and voila! Works like a charm. Thank god i didnt have to mess up directly with body computer.
Good success then.
