General What Gearbox Oil to use???

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General What Gearbox Oil to use???

Mark500

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Looking to replace my clutch on my 2008 1.2 500 within the next week and the Gearbox oil, Not quite sure on what spec oil to use as there’s so many sites stating different brands etc, I believe manufacturers spec is 75w-80

Also at 145k miles so would a different oil be advised??
 
Sometimes oil specifications change during a vehicle's production run. Your starting point of reference should be the handbook that was supplied with the car when it was new.

If you don't have yours, you could use the information from mine (at your own risk); it's for a 2010 1.2 500. The specification is a fully synthetic lubricant to specification API GL4 PLUS or FIAT 9.55550, grade SAE 75W-85

Also at 145k miles so would a different oil be advised??

No, just use gearbox oil which conforms to the manufacturer's specifications. Given the high mileage, do check the clutch hydraulics are up to scratch (unlikely if they're original); the new clutch might not last long if the actuating mechanism isn't working properly.

Make sure you have correctly identified the drain plug; there's another thread running at the moment when someone removed one of the detent plunger plugs by mistake. Also remove the filler/level plug first, or you'll get a partial vacuum in the gearbox which will both stop the oil draining freely and possibly pull contamination in past the seals.
 
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Unless you're very experienced at diy and have the right supports time and space(that's warm) might I suggest having a "garage" replace the clutch?
Try the Castrol web page if unsure 're oil grade.

I was a mechanic for 10 years and have access to a garage with a pit. Never done a 500 clutch before and as some manufacturers change spec depending on the age of vehicle I thought it best to Ask for advice on the Oil not my Skills or qualifications on doing the job.
 
Sometimes oil specifications change during a vehicle's production run. Your starting point of reference should be the handbook that was supplied with the car when it was new.

If you don't have yours, you could use the information from mine (at your own risk); it's for a 2010 1.2 500. The specification is a fully synthetic lubricant to specification API GL4 PLUS or FIAT 9.55550, grade SAE 75W-85



No, just use gearbox oil which conforms to the manufacturer's specifications. Given the high mileage, do check the clutch hydraulics are up to scratch (unlikely if they're original); the new clutch might not last long if the actuating mechanism isn't working properly.

Make sure you have correctly identified the drain plug; there's another thread running at the moment when someone removed one of the detent plunger plugs by mistake. Also remove the filler/level plug first, or you'll get a partial vacuum in the gearbox which will both stop the oil draining freely and possibly pull contamination in past the seals.

Thank you very much, sound advice ??
 
Sometimes oil specifications change during a vehicle's production run. Your starting point of reference should be the handbook that was supplied with the car when it was new.

If you don't have yours, you could use the information from mine (at your own risk); it's for a 2010 1.2 500. The specification is a fully synthetic lubricant to specification API GL4 PLUS or FIAT 9.55550, grade SAE 75W-85



No, just use gearbox oil which conforms to the manufacturer's specifications. Given the high mileage, do check the clutch hydraulics are up to scratch (unlikely if they're original); the new clutch might not last long if the actuating mechanism isn't working properly.

Make sure you have correctly identified the drain plug; there's another thread running at the moment when someone removed one of the detent plunger plugs by mistake. Also remove the filler/level plug first, or you'll get a partial vacuum in the gearbox which will both stop the oil draining freely and possibly pull contamination in past the seals.
As an aside, I was taught to undo the fill plug first to prove it comes undone - nothing worse than draining the oil just to find you can’t undo the fill plug...
 
Changed both Panda gear boxes recently and researched oil at length. Decided to buy the Tutella oil recommended after reading a fair bit. There are subtle differences in the constituency between this oil and standard equivalent grades which are - of course - cheaper.

Both almost identical cars use a different grade. It isn't cheap oil but both cars gear changes feel a whole lot better for the change. The older car at just under 50K miles was massively better and quieter too afterwards.
 
gear changes feel a whole lot better for the change. The older car at just under 50K miles was massively better and quieter too afterwards

I'm not surprised.

Although most manufacturers don't include a transmission oil change in their recommended service schedule, I still think it's good practice to do so. In the absence of any other information, I'd suggest every 4yrs/40000 miles would be a reasonable interval. The oil is formulated using some long chain hydrocarbons, and they get physically chopped up over time by the action of the geartrain, leading to a loss in viscosity.

The oil should come out clean*. If you find any metal in it, be concerned. And if it resembles alumimium paint, be very concerned. Seriously darkened oil is indicative of seal breakdown. For those who've not done it before, be aware that the oil stinks. Take great care not to spill it; it's seriously hard to get rid of the smell, and it's not pleasant. It's probably pretty hazardous, too, so wear nitrile gloves and dispose of the old stuff responsibly.

Following my own advice, I've run a gearbox close to a quarter million miles with no issues whatsoever.

Some trackday types will do both transmission oil and cambelt at least once a year.

*unless it's a 1960's BL transverse engine unit where the engine and gearbox share the same oil ;)
 
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