Technical Don't tappet plates suffer more friction than the tappets themselves?

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Technical Don't tappet plates suffer more friction than the tappets themselves?

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Hi everyone,

Don't tappet plates suffer more friction than the tappets themselves?

As far as I understand, the plates take in all the friction between the tappet (the solid one, not hydraulic - for what matters) and the camshaft.

I'm questioning this just because not many people mention plates when replacing tappets.

P.S: I'm referring to the orange plate from the attached snapshot.

Thanks so much in advance.
 

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Also, can you please let me know what is the interval at which valve clearance needs to be checked for the 1.2MPI 8V engine?

Does tapping noise usually go away by simply adjusting clearance? Car in question has aprox. 150k km.
 
Bucket shims are what you call tappet plates (your image is actually a shim over bucket system). Yes they are designed to wear, as the gap wears and grows you replace the shim with a thicker one to bring the clearance back in spec.

They are used because you can directly operate the valves from the cam rather than using a system of rockers between the cam and the valves and this lightens the valve train and requires less power to run.

Also, with a rocker system you hammer the end of the valve stem (not a replaceable shim of metal between the two), once the gap has worn too far for the adjuster, you need to replace the valve itself.

By feeding oil between the surfaces you can take some the of the lash (noise) out (Hydrualic) which makes them quieter.

If they are noisy it's either the gaps are to large and need reshimming or the holes the oil passages have become blocked with crud and carbon or a bit of both.

I would say at 150km you valve clearances are due for a check and reset but the 1.2 FIRE can often sound a bit tappy when cold, once the old warms up they usually settle down.
 
Plus with petrol engines it is very easy to mistake normal petrol injector noise for tappet noise.
 
Bucket shims are what you call tappet plates (your image is actually a shim over bucket system).

Okay, that explains why I've not been able to find much on "tappet plate" (this is the name they were referenced to in some online tool like Eper) :p

I now understand the difference between the two types and how they work. Big thanks!

I might try some engine oil additive next time (like Resurs from VMPAuto), maybe it dissolves some of the carbon deposits.

Will have the clearance checked next time I visit the garage and buy a cover gasket in advance. If bucket shims are worn, I can wait for the garage to order them on the spot.

The tappety sound does not go away even when engine warms up, I'm afraid.

Plus with petrol engines it is very easy to mistake normal petrol injector noise for tappet noise.

When I changed the spark plugs few days ago, the mechanic managed to break 2 of my injectors (he then replaced them with some used ones). Having done this, the sound of the engine didn't change, neither for the better or for the worse. This led me think there is bigger chance that the noise is due to worn shims.

Is there any way to check injector values on an ELM327 interface with MES?

Thank you so much!
 
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Okay, that explains why I've not been able to find much on "tappet plate" (this is the name they were referenced to in some online tool like Eper) [emoji14]

I now understand the difference between the two types and how they work. Big thanks!

I might try some engine oil additive next time (like Resurs from VMPAuto), maybe it dissolves some of the carbon deposits.

Will have the clearance checked next time I visit the garage and buy a cover gasket in advance. If bucket shims are worn, I can wait for the garage to order them on the spot.

The tappety sound does not go away even when engine warms up, I'm afraid.



When I changed the spark plugs few days ago, the mechanic managed to break 2 of my injectors (he then replaced them with some used ones). Having done this, the sound of the engine didn't change, neither for the better or for the worse. This led me think there is bigger chance that the noise is due to worn shims.

Is there any way to check injector values on an ELM327 interface with MES?

Thank you so much!
Petrol injectors don't have injector values like diesels injectors do, has that answered your question.

Your mechanic broke 2 injectors changing spark plugs , Strange .
Good that he replaced them .
 
The shim on top of the bucket allows the shim to be replaced with the camshaft still fitted. There's actually a special tool to depress the valve, which is a curved lever with a ball handle. If care is taken the job can be done with any suitable lever, like a large screwdriver.

Often if clearances need adjusting, if all shims are checked, some can be used in other locations, so even if all need adjusting, only a few need to be purchased. In normal use I've never needed to adjust a FIRE engine.

Other engines use a shim under the bucket. To adjust requires removing the camshaft, which adds a whole lot more work, including a cambelt change in many cases. The oil should keep wear to a minimum, but if our shims wear, new shims fix this. If buckets wear, they are much more expensive, so the FIRE system is a good one.
 

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Just managed to make a short video on how the engine sounds at cold start, on acceleration: https://youtu.be/E0ysC-OHie0

I've been researching a bit on this issue and another possible cause occurred to my mind... Could this noise have to do with a split exhaust manifold?

I'm expected to visit a local garage tomorrow and don't know what to have first checked.

Any opinion is appreciated. Thank you!
 
Just managed to make a short video on how the engine sounds at cold start, on acceleration: https://youtu.be/E0ysC-OHie0

I've been researching a bit on this issue and another possible cause occurred to my mind... Could this noise have to do with a split exhaust manifold?

I'm expected to visit a local garage tomorrow and don't know what to have first checked.

Any opinion is appreciated. Thank you!
Sounds like exhaust to me but it is difficult to tell from video

Jack
 
I'm expected to visit a local garage tomorrow and don't know what to have first checked.

Never tell a garage what to check. That relies on you doing the diagnosis, and then paying for them to agree or deny your theory. Might waste a lot of time and money.

Instead, describe the problem. Let them investigate, using their expertise and experience. Do not point them at anything in particular, but of course, be prepared to question their suggestions to clarify their diagnosis and your understanding.

I spent quite a few years in the trade, with customers requesting things be checked or adjusted, and only after nothing changed did they then advise what they werre worried about.
 
I agree with you. I will mention symptoms and let them verify based on experience.

It's just that I have several items on my list besides the tappety noise and (depending on complexity) I may be limited by time of investigating/fixing just 1 or 2 of them maybe. The rest I may leave for a future visit.
 
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Thank you, Goudrons!

Just came back from the garage, I ran the engine a bit while the car lifted and the mechanic identified the catalytic converter as being split. I hope it's just this and nothing else, fingers crossed.
 
After getting hold of a used catalytic converter for around 65 pounds, i went back to the garage today. Turned out to be a broken bolt stuck in the cylinder head. Due to that, the exhaust made that tapping-like sound.

Getting that little prick out and replacing it with a good bolt (along with a new exhaust gasket) made the noise dissapear. Car is running excellent now and I like the sound of revving it.

Thanks!
 
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