General Locking wheel nut sheared

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General Locking wheel nut sheared

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Sep 27, 2011
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Telford, \Shropshire
I'm trying to do the simple job of removing a wheel on my wife's 2009 500 Multijet. Unfortunately for me this is when I found out the studs have all been over-tightened to the point only an impact gun would undo them. Unfortunately the locking nut key had sheared off!

I've ordered a new key but suspect that will also shear off, so I've looked online for a removal tool but they seem very limited in sizes. Most go up to 19mm, some up to 21.5 and a few up to 26mm. Can anyone tell if this refers to the standard stud head (and therefore 19mm should do it) or if it refers to the diameter of the locking nut head (in which case 19mm is too small) or tell me what size I need to buy?
 
Most “tyre guys” will remove locking wheel bolts for around £10/20 for all 4..

If you’re set on doing the job yourself, buy a kit for all sizes/types
 
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I've already ordered a replacement key but I suspect that will break too as it's so tight (my 30" breaker bar wouldn't shift them!). I was just trying to understand if the standard removal sockets sets will fit so I can release it before ruining another key.
 
I'm trying to do the simple job of removing a wheel on my wife's 2009 500 Multijet. Unfortunately for me this is when I found out the studs have all been over-tightened to the point only an impact gun would undo them. Unfortunately the locking nut key had sheared off!

I've ordered a new key but suspect that will also shear off, so I've looked online for a removal tool but they seem very limited in sizes. Most go up to 19mm, some up to 21.5 and a few up to 26mm. Can anyone tell if this refers to the standard stud head (and therefore 19mm should do it) or if it refers to the diameter of the locking nut head (in which case 19mm is too small) or tell me what size I need to buy?

Best option is to get a garage to weld a plain nut on to the head of the wheel nut (through the hole in the plain nut) and use this to remove the wheel nut. It will be even easier to loosen if you do it when it is still hot from the welding.
This will of course ruin the locking nut but you should have the original plain nut in the kit the locking key was in.

Robert G8RPI.
 
Usual method is hammering a just-too-small 12 point nut on the lock head. As tight as they are in your case, even that may slip, though.
 
Usual method is hammering a just-too-small 12 point nut on the lock head. As tight as they are in your case, even that may slip, though.

I have tentatively tried doing that but didn't try too hard as I have got a new key on order. When it arrives I shall undo the other three first before tackling the tight one. If I can't shift it then I'll try the socket trick with a bit more force. If all else fails I'll take it to the tyre bay. I don't like being beaten! ?
 
The new key arrived today but still no good as it slips on the stud due to damage. Hammering a socket on won't help as the locking stud has an outer slip ring. Tried my local garage and they don't have a remival tool. Tried National Tyres and they say they can't do it. I now have it booked in at another place tomorrow who say they might be able to remove it. All this because some pillock over-tightened it!
 
Hi, I've had this problem before with my son's locking wheel nut on his Peugeot (doesn't matter what car it's on) my long T bar was just slipping off as a result of the threads being worn So after placing the locking wheel nut adapter and the T bar on I jammed a scaffold pole between that and a sturdy wall with someone inside the car keeping pressure up by turning the wheel and it came off easily. :)
 
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The new key arrived today but still no good as it slips on the stud due to damage. Hammering a socket on won't help as the locking stud has an outer slip ring. Tried my local garage and they don't have a remival tool. Tried National Tyres and they say they can't do it. I now have it booked in at another place tomorrow who say they might be able to remove it. All this because some pillock over-tightened it!
If you have a hammer and punch use these to Knock the outer ring off
 
Hi, I've had this problem before with my son's locking wheel nut on his Peugeot (doesn't matter what car it's on) my long T bar was just slipping off as a result of the threads being worn So after placing the locking wheel nut adapter and the T bar on I jammed a scaffold pole between that and a sturdy wall with someone inside the car keeping pressure up by turning the wheel and it came off easily. :)

What a great idea! I have it booked in for first thing in the morning but if that fails then I'll try your idea as that won't make things worse. ?
 
Pressure is a good point- reminds me of my oil drainage nut where I used a Jack to press against the weight if the car. Pressure on the nut adds a lot if friction, prevents it from slipping and can make the required difference.
 
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