hi all

we have 2014 twinair 105 has about 38k on the clock; its just recently started shaking at idle. the whole car shakes and on inspection the engine is rocking forwards and backwards quite a lot on the mounts.

otherwise it seems to drive ok; ive had a little search on the forum could it be the coil packs??

thanks

Hi just thought id self bump this thread still no answer on this issue I the car checked for codes and nothing has been logged

Only thing I noticed on the laptop was pre cat lambda sensor not showing any voltage but I dont know if thats correct or not.

The issue is more so when warm rather then cold. Otherwise it seems to drive ok apart from the engine bay being very hot after a 15min casual drive.

I was thinking this could be a coil pack issue but not sure now

Hi.

The lambda may cause a misfire.. and HOT running

Coil packs ..?
When were the plugs last changed??

Lambda SHOULD cause a warning..

Charlie

hi

plugs changed at every service , last serviced in august

pre cat lamba ? is that the one at the top by the turbo? at the front

im getting open/closed information and voltage on the other lamada sensor

strange not getting any codes , unless it is the software im using but performs the tests on the coils etc so im guessing would pickup any codes

Worth inplugging the wiring for the sensor.

It may even run slightly better unplugged..

As the ECU should substitute an acceptable figure..


Out of interest does power..mpg.. seem changed?
Do let us know what you find.

still struggling to find the cause of the shaking/balance problem. i disconnected the lambda sensors it didnt resolve the issue. still very rough at idle speed once warm

trying a new post cat sensor as that sensor is the one that doesn't seem to be changing from open/closed and fortunately a lot cheaper then the pre cat sensor which i thought was iffy

strangely with both sensors disconnected it looses more then half its normal power, feels like turbo has disabled

Guesses engine mounts or DMF?!

When is the new lambda sensor being fitted?

hi, it should come in the post tomorrow so if im not to busy after work i'll get it swapped as soon as possible, and let you know results

Could the dual mass flywheel be a possibility ?

I have a 2011 Twinair 85bhp, which idles like a dog, and has been giving me misfire codes for both cylinders, plus a generic one (for environmental stuff?? i forget) which I think is the lambda sensor.
It started when the engine had an almighty lurch, and cut out, while idling one afternoon, when not stone cold. It felt like it had leapt off it's mounts.
MES told me that one the problems was an oil temperature sensor, which I'd replaced last year, so I became suspicious that I had a serious fault somewhere, and the fault codes weren't a reliable indicator.
So on Monday I took it to an independent ex Fiat diagnostic technician, who found no faults with any sensors, plugs, coils, or circuits.
He's not too familiar with these engines, so he rang his mate at a main dealership, who apparently said 'wrong oil, wrong level, and the micro oil filter in the uniair module will be clogged.'
The car's only done thirty two thousand, had been dealer serviced before I got it, and I've done three oil changes with the right stuff, and it's always stayed topped up.
The tech guy gave me some of his special engine flush, and sent me on my way, but after that I took it to my garage, for an existing repair, and asked them to clean the filter.
Unfortunately I don't know if it was clogged, as the guy who did it had gone home.
The good news is that the car hasn't registered a fault for the ten miles I've driven it, (though it idled rough today) which could be due to the tech guy's jiggery pokery with a proper Fiat diagnostic tool.
The bad news is that the uniair actuator could be on it's way out, if the faults come back.
And I'm sorry to say that could be your bad news too.
I thought I'd warn you, though the modules can be had for four hundred quid now, so shouldn't be a thousand pound job like it used to be.
I'll post if I mine needs more attention.

Cheers, Pete

loserscar possible the move from 5w 40 oil to 0w30 C2 benefits the Uniair module but only Fiat know the answer for sure. If your specialist prepared to get a new actuator from main dealer on sale or return and it cures it that's your answer. Though can't see independent mechanic being prepared to do this. Hope sorted anyway.

thanks Pete, thats a little bit more to go on anyway

like yours my car was main dealer serviced until I got it and then ive had it serviced at an independent with genuine fiat oil and parts. ive always used the 0w-30 oil currently running it on the Shell ECT oil

Ive heard about the little oil filter i will check that out?

will the uniair module throw a specific code up??

my car is showing no codes

I don't think the uniair will throw a code, no.
I'd be curious as to how it's diagnosed.
The diagnostic tech I used had a lot of Fiat experience (though not with twinair engines), the right diagnostic equipment, and a mate at his old workplace, so I'd have thought he would have known.
I might give him a ring and find out more.
As it is, I've got a car that keeps showing faults (P0195 today the oil temp sensor), and another garage that tells me there's possibly a leaking head gasket.
If P0195 is the first fault to show, the tech told me, then it probably causes the other three misfire codes. (tech says no problem with the sensor, or coils or anything)
His only suggestion was to flush the oil, but I won't do that till my spanner man traces the oil leak.
So it might want a grand or more throwing at it, with no guarantee of the codes going away.
I'll post if I get an answer.

Sorry to go on, but I'm a wee bit depressed about it.

Cheers, Pete.

Pete, i wish you luck sorting your issue, at least you have something to go on there.

My car doesnt seem to be presenting with anything other then this idle issue, apart from something else which just came to light. A very loud vibration coming from the engine/gearbox which can be felt through the gearstick that appears only in 2nd gear just under 4000rpm (about 3800rpm). once i change gear it dies away

could this be related or coincidental ??? or could it point towards the clutch/DMF maybe

Hello just an update

today i checked/cleaned out the oil strainer which was fine, afterwards went for a drive, now my vibration is much worse, starts as soon as i pull away right through til i reach a steady speed in 4th or 5th, gears more difficult to get and clutch smell as i put it back in garage so now thinking clutch/dmf :-( booking in with my local garage asap

Just an update on this, im now going to be £500 lighter, the garage found the flywheel had failed so its having new clutch and flywheel :-(

googlebear41 said:

Hello just an update

today i checked/cleaned out the oil strainer which was fine, afterwards went for a drive, now my vibration is much worse, starts as soon as i pull away right through til i reach a steady speed in 4th or 5th, gears more difficult to get and clutch smell as i put it back in garage so now thinking clutch/dmf :-( booking in with my local garage asap

Click to expand...

Did you disturb any mounts doing this.. ?

that may have amplified the bad vibes.. changing the harmonics by varying the set.up


Do let us know what they find when they have it all apart

Charlie

I had all the work done new clutch and flywheel, the flywheel had failed and wreaked the clutch. Car feels better then its ever done, no clutch noise when pulling away and engine feels really smooth. I think ive had the issue for long time and not realized it