ChrisHGT
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I’ve searched unsuccessfully for guidance on removing the rear internal trim (2014 500). Does anyone have any info on how to do this to access behind the panels next to rear seats please?
Technical Rear interior trim removal
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Technical Rear interior trim removal
Does this a million times. Here goes.
Remove rear seat backs. 2 bolts either side in the boot and a torx/Allen bolt in the middle. Lift them out of the boot. Remove seat pad by undoing the two bolts in the rear footwell.
Remove the rear parcel shelf mounts that are connected to the cream side panels by removing two screws. One under the peg that holds the shelf, the other just in front of the rear seatbelt. Pull off the cream panel and the shelf mount.
Just behind the front seat on the plastic kick panel that runs along the door opening you will see two screws. Remove those. Pull the kick panel firmly up first to reveal one of those screws. You don’t need to take that kick panel right off, just pull it out of the way.
Remove the seatbelt anchor at the top. Pull off the cream trim under it having pulled the door rubber off and out of the way. Don’t remove the rubber completely.
One screw that was hidden by the cream panel, remove that.
Use a cross blade screwdriver to undo the bottom of the seatbelt from the pre tensioner.
There’s now only one bolt holding it on in the bottom left hand corner. Be very very careful with this as this goes to the outside world and often sheers off when undoing. This is the anchor for the rear seatbelt too.
Depending on what you’re doing I would advise you do not remove this bolt or even loosen it. You are asking for trouble. There are now only that bolt and lugs holding it on. Grab hold of the edges near the door pillar and pull firmly. Once it’s come away you can pull it back enough to get behind it without removing that bolt.
Hope that helps.
Remove rear seat backs. 2 bolts either side in the boot and a torx/Allen bolt in the middle. Lift them out of the boot. Remove seat pad by undoing the two bolts in the rear footwell.
Remove the rear parcel shelf mounts that are connected to the cream side panels by removing two screws. One under the peg that holds the shelf, the other just in front of the rear seatbelt. Pull off the cream panel and the shelf mount.
Just behind the front seat on the plastic kick panel that runs along the door opening you will see two screws. Remove those. Pull the kick panel firmly up first to reveal one of those screws. You don’t need to take that kick panel right off, just pull it out of the way.
Remove the seatbelt anchor at the top. Pull off the cream trim under it having pulled the door rubber off and out of the way. Don’t remove the rubber completely.
One screw that was hidden by the cream panel, remove that.
Use a cross blade screwdriver to undo the bottom of the seatbelt from the pre tensioner.
There’s now only one bolt holding it on in the bottom left hand corner. Be very very careful with this as this goes to the outside world and often sheers off when undoing. This is the anchor for the rear seatbelt too.
Depending on what you’re doing I would advise you do not remove this bolt or even loosen it. You are asking for trouble. There are now only that bolt and lugs holding it on. Grab hold of the edges near the door pillar and pull firmly. Once it’s come away you can pull it back enough to get behind it without removing that bolt.
Hope that helps.
Big thumbs up, Thanks for the post, I've just removed the side pannel.
Trying to remove this panel on a 500c. The screws at the rear shelf are located slightly different, cannot find this one screw. Has anyone done this?
While we are on the subject: I’m going to tackle that rear seatbelt bolt tomorrow..
got myself a set of left handed drill bits and bolt removers ..I’ve soaked it with plus gas & hopefully I can get it done though I’m not looking forward to it at all!Then I have to hunt for the appropriate new bolt…
Good luck.While we are on the subject: I’m going to tackle that rear seatbelt bolt tomorrow..
Then I have to hunt for the appropriate new bolt…
Just remember to drill into the bolt from inside the car (if using a conventional "clockwise" drill, so the drilling itself may screw the broken off bolt shank "through" the captive nut and out into the wheel arch.
If/once the bolt stiction is broken you may have enough bolt poking through into the wheel arch to be able to grab it with Mole grips... otherwise cut a slot into it (angle grinder or Dremel) and use a screwdriver to "unscrew" it.
Ralf S.
Omg I’ve done it! That was horrible!! I had to drill a few holes into the bolt starting small and getting a little bigger .. then a bit broke off into the bolt
managed to get that out plus gas and had a rest Then used a larger left hand bit .. at first nothing seemed to be happening.. but just as I was about to concede it started turning!!!
Just finished cleaning up .. glad I’ve done it but I hope I don’t have to do that EVER again
Nice one! It's the shittiest job though.. especially when a drill bit breaks in the bolt.
Before you fit a new bolt, grease the end third of the thread, and then, once it's screwed in, put a bit more grease around the thread that pokes through into the wheel arch.. particularly where the bolt emerges from the captive nut. It will stop water creeping "up" the thread and then welding the nut and the bolt together.
If you ever need to unscrew it again (obviously you won't, now that it will come out without any hassle) just clean up the threads with a wire brush, so that any dirt/rust on the bolt doesn't get pulled into the nut threads. It's fine pitch probably, so the thread clogs up more easily and makes the bolt harder to unscrew/risks shearing it.
Ralf S.
Before you fit a new bolt, grease the end third of the thread, and then, once it's screwed in, put a bit more grease around the thread that pokes through into the wheel arch.. particularly where the bolt emerges from the captive nut. It will stop water creeping "up" the thread and then welding the nut and the bolt together.
If you ever need to unscrew it again (obviously you won't, now that it will come out without any hassle) just clean up the threads with a wire brush, so that any dirt/rust on the bolt doesn't get pulled into the nut threads. It's fine pitch probably, so the thread clogs up more easily and makes the bolt harder to unscrew/risks shearing it.
Ralf S.
