Hi guys anyone get to the bottom of this? As having same problem, luk clutch fitted still slipping, fitted another under warranty still slips, have now replaced clutch master and slave and pipe and clutch fork arm and still slips any ideas?

Hi Kungfu. This sort of thing can be quite extraordinarily frustrating and my heart bleeds for you. We are lucky up here in Edinburgh, with the building of the newest Forth bridge we now have a choice of 3 to jump off (for me though it would have to be the old railway bridge -39 steps and all that- much more stylish way to go)

Getting back on topic though, is the bite point still very high? ie just before the pedal is fully released? If so this is not normal for any clutch and I'm sure it's trying to "tell" you something with this. It sounds as if the clutch is not quite fully releasing. Without dismantling anything, can you push the rod back into the slave cylinder? It will be quite stiff to do (it is on my 1.2 petrol anyway) but you should be able to get some movement. If it's totally solid then at least you know that the release arm is not being able to "relax" enough to let the pressure plate properly clamp the driven plate. On the other hand if the slave has "free" movement then the only thing it can really be is that the pressure plate is not applying enough clamping force for some reason? Keep coming back to thinking about this "high" bite point though - not right - if only it could talk (bit like trying to guess why the baby is crying)

kungfu500 said:

Hi guys anyone get to the bottom of this? As having same problem, luk clutch fitted still slipping, fitted another under warranty still slips, have now replaced clutch master and slave and pipe and clutch fork arm and still slips any ideas?

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Hello and welcome to the forum.

If the clutch is still slipping after new parts have been fitted, then I'd say it's one of the following:

1. incorrent or faulty parts have been used

2. there is insufficient free play in the operating mechanism

3. the friction plate was contaminated with oil or grease during reassembly

4. the flywheel is warped or otherwise damaged

The latter is not that unusual if the car has been driven a significant distance with the clutch slipping badly.

Whilst this isn't a place that would necessarily be my first choice of repairer, the advice given in this article is sound.

Hi guys fiat 500 is a 1.3 jtd diesel 2008 the biting point is normal and can push slave cylinder rod bk yes i can,it only slips when boost comes in at 2000rpm, flywheel was checked and is within tolerance and spec, correct luk clutch supplied and fitted correctly, it originally started slipping before clutch was changed , had a problem with no power no boost, found vac hose split and boost solenoid faulty, so had that replaced, 10 miles later the clutch started slipping, so then clutch was changed (luk) correct part aswell and fork arm and bush, took car out clutch still slipping, so had another luk clutch fitted under warranty and also had the clutch slave and master cylinder changed aswell as clutch pipes, and car is still slipping, spoke to a old work colleague fiat master tech who now works for fiat technical who i worked with at fiat for 5 yrs and he is stumbled aswell, weird thing is when i unbolt the slave off the box (no clutch operation) start in gear and drive it down the road and rev match to change gear it doesnt slip,its weird as all the hydraulic parts in the system have been repaced and mechanical side aswell, also 100 % no fluid contamination on clutch

Rsv75 did you ever solve yours? Also spoken to a few mates who work at clutch centres and they have said theyve fitted cheapo clutches to the fiat 500 1.3 jtd and ford ka 1.3 jtd and never had this problem, the only thing left is to fit a genuine o.e.m fiat clutch

Have you tried pulling the pedal upwards more maybe the pedal isn't returning fully

Pedal is returning fully

It's possibly an expensive option, have Fiat replace the clutch? Then at least it's their problem if the genuine part fails to work correctly?

Is the clutch hydraulic? It may be worth bleeding the clutch hydraulic system, including any slave cylinder that's connected to the clutch pedal (although you may not have one).

Something in there is lifting the clutch slightly.. since a good, clean flywheel and new plates would not cause slip.. only a lifting motion would causing slip.



Ralf S.

hi guys, this problem is very interesting (as i am a tech) but obviously frustrating too.Everything i think of advising has already been tried..however, i agree with mr. kungfu's method..if the hydraulic influence' has been removed & no slip ...then all i can think of is connecting hydraulics back up but disconnect the clutch pedal & repeat the road test? this would entirely remove clutch pedal influence'? Always in my mind is ( many years ago) i did clutch on an x-19..it still slipped..grrrrr! pedal felt as if it was returning ok..but when i examined closely, the clutch pedal spring had snapped & was preventing full return (don't know if 500 has one though) hth-yann.

Yann the 500 does have a spring and yes have inspected very carefully, the spring is gd, the pedal 100% returns fully, as a tech of 20yrs have never ever come across something so puzzling lol

Sorry to drag up an old thread. I did eventually get my problem sorted but not 100% sure what fixed it as I put a genuine fiat clutch in and fork arm/bushings in at the same time. HOWEVER, it is back up to its old tricks again. Same problem with the slipping after only 10000 miles or so.
Did you eventually get sorted and what fixed it in the end?
Thanks.

Not sure if Bluetruck still comes on here and can advise?!

Not sure if Bluetruck still comes on here and can advise?!