Technical 2010 Automatic Suddenly Won't Turn Over and Stalling on Low RPM.

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Technical 2010 Automatic Suddenly Won't Turn Over and Stalling on Low RPM.

Ca9ine

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Hello, everyone

I've been searching and searching all over the interwebs to see if I could find a pointer as to what is wrong with my car. I'm hoping some bright minds here might know what I should do, or maybe identify a cause. I'll explain my issue in as much detail as I can.

Our shops here in Norway charge about $200-$300 for a simple diagnostic, so I'm not quite in the mood for that quite yet.


My 2010 Fiat 500 1.2 Automatic has two major issues, they might be related:
I should mention, I feel I have to drive it in manual. There is no start/stop on the car.

Starting the car.

It sounds like it's not firing on all cylinders, or doesn't get enough spark: it cranks and cranks and speeds up more and more over about 5 minutes before it finally runs. If I let go of the throttle in neutral, it stalls. It also stalls in gear if the RPM is high and I let go of the accelerator completely. Sometimes, it manages to "catch up" and the engine shakes on about 500 RPM, before going up to around 700 RPM idle. But most of the time, it just stalls. I need to say I feel it starts a little easier when depressing the accelerator a little when trying to crank. There is a strong smell of unburnt petrol every time.

Stalling when driving.

When driving, the car seems to lose power on gear change sometimes, mostly downshifts. It drops RPM momentarily and after a second, a hard yank is felt and it regains power/RPM. When I slow down, approaching intersections I have to watch and feel the RPM then downshift manually to 1st gear to try and avoid stalling while braking very carefully before a full stop. If I try to move an inch further and stop in these situations: the RPM goes up, drops fast and it'll stall.

The engine starts fine(ish) when I need to start again after the stall when driving.


OBD error code I've found: P0560 System Voltage Malfunction.
I deleted this code, and it did not reappear.


What I have attempted so far to mend the issues:


  • Sparkplugs changed, all four (one was damaged)
  • LAMBDA changed.
  • New battery.
  • Tightened ground on starter.


Behavior of the car is the same.



Do any of you have any ideas?
 
How was the plug damaged??

Concern would be damage to piston/valves on that cylinder..

Have you removed plugs since to look for differences in their colour. Hints of running condition.... ;)

Charlie

The plug was kinda burnt, and the tip just broke off in crumbs.
I havent' removed the plugs again to check, it was quite recent I swapped them. Screwed down by hand until tight, and then a turn and a half with a pipe.
 
You may well find a marked difference in the colour ..from cylinder to cylinder..

Good diagnostic aid.

Am I to assume that you're thinking plugs again?
Can I have tightened them too much or too little?

Some say I should bend the tip etc, but the vendor said that wasn't necessary for the plugs as they should be a straight fit.
 
A tiny update:

I mounteda battery boster/charger as I tried starting.
It still cranks, but starts way better. It didn't drop RPM too low either, no stalling on idle. I haven't driven it yet.
 
How about a new ground cable? Under battery tray body to engine about £3 for a new one (8mm holes) they can look ok but can be quite corroded replaced ours
 

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I'll look into that.
The car still stalls and loses power / RPM when shifting.

Both headlight bulbs were changed earlier, and now they're gone again. So maybe electrical is the issue. Wiper on rear window also stopped working.


The fact that I need to press the accelerator for the engine to start when it cranks, makes me wonder if it's a fuel issue combined with electrical. Pump or filter or whatever.


I'm at a complete loss.
 
I'll look into that.
The car still stalls and loses power / RPM when shifting.

Both headlight bulbs were changed earlier, and now they're gone again. So maybe electrical is the issue. Wiper on rear window also stopped working.


The fact that I need to press the accelerator for the engine to start when it cranks, makes me wonder if it's a fuel issue combined with electrical. Pump or filter or whatever.


I'm at a complete loss.

LONG SHOT..

Check the tailgate:hatch wiring ...
 
I'll look into that.
The car still stalls and loses power / RPM when shifting.

Both headlight bulbs were changed earlier, and now they're gone again. So maybe electrical is the issue. Wiper on rear window also stopped working.


The fact that I need to press the accelerator for the engine to start when it cranks, makes me wonder if it's a fuel issue combined with electrical. Pump or filter or whatever.


I'm at a complete loss.

Did they go off together and we're they genuinely failed? When on are they excessively bright?
 
Pop a meter on the battery. I wonder if your alternator is overcharging.

D

It's not overcharging, that's the first thing I checked.
I've given up. Going to the shop tomorrow for a diagnosis and eventual repairs.

I'll post the results.
 
So, here we go:

Blown headgasket.
Compression was the problem, coolant leaking into a cylinder chamber.

A week at the shop, a £2500-ish set-back and the car is as good as new.
Turned the key and it started and now runs as if it was fresh from the dealership.

No other symptons or faults have been commented on from the mechs.

----

Thanks for your time, people.
It was indeed worth the shot here first, but in the end it came to down to that horrible, horrible gasket :ROFLMAO:
 
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