It would use medium strength because that's what I already have .
I have never seen a thread lock that is not tolerant to oil when cured.
You don't need much so only but a very small tube.
Technical 2008 500 1.4 sport, rear stub axle stud sheared
- Thread starter Petitpal
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical 2008 500 1.4 sport, rear stub axle stud sheared
I have never seen a thread lock that is not tolerant to oil when cured.
You don't need much so only but a very small tube.
Just quick one on this (and before I go out, have a go, and bugger it up!) - are you saying:
- loctite and torque in the studs to 18Nm
- pop the stub axle back onto the car, fit the nuts and torque up to final spec (I'll check the setting exactly later)
OR are you saying:
- loctite and torque in the studs to 18Nm
- torque up the studs to final spec
- pop the stud axle back onto the car, fit the nuts and torque up to final spec
I'm assuming the first... just want to double check
Cheers!Yes the first one ,Just quick one on this (and before I go out, have a go, and bugger it up!) - are you saying:
- loctite and torque in the studs to 18Nm
- pop the stub axle back onto the car, fit the nuts and torque up to final spec (I'll check the setting exactly later)
OR are you saying:
- loctite and torque in the studs to 18Nm
- torque up the studs to final spec
- pop the stud axle back onto the car, fit the nuts and torque up to final spec
I'm assuming the first... just want to double check
Apply thread lock to threads of stud that screw into stub axle.
Screw studs into stub axle.
Torque studs to 18Nm into stub axle.
Straight after assemble stub axle to car and tighten nuts to 65Nm.
You are doing fine.
Jack
Last edited:
Super, cheers. That's what I thought, but I just wanted to make sure. I'm a happy amateur in general but, as you said before, some things are more safety critical than others - better to be safe than sorry! Picked up the new studs from the dealers today - all the way from Italy(!) - so ready to get the poor thing back one it's wheels again!
So... studs went in fine, all good and dandy. ABS sensor bolt decided to have it's go and sheared off. This was with a tiny wrench and almost no force. Either someone's been on this before me with some hefty tools or its just made of cheese. Happy days...
Gorgonzola is an oe supplier to Fiat.
So as the final instalment (for anyone interested enough... I'm not... I lost interest weeks ago ): the cobalt drills went through the ABS bolt easily enough (v. impressed actually) - but then the 'easy out' stud remover turned out to be neither easy, nor out. It actually decided to shear off inside the sheared off bolt. Seriously. :bang: Luckily the cobalt drills drilled that out as well - so eventually I just carefully sized up drill bits until the bolt was no more. Found a new one, fitted with blue loctite - miraculously the threads were fine - then put the car back together (remembering a thin coating of copper grease on the back of the pads, for a change).
So hopefully - that's that.
So I think I've learnt three things:
1) Either I've turned into the Hulk or (more likely) Fiats are made of cheese.
2) I'm available for any Fiat race team that needs me to strip down the back end of a 500 (had plenty of practice now).
3) I'm sticking to working on my Golf in future!
Cheers for everyone's help.
): the cobalt drills went through the ABS bolt easily enough (v. impressed actually) - but then the 'easy out' stud remover turned out to be neither easy, nor out. It actually decided to shear off inside the sheared off bolt. Seriously. :bang: Luckily the cobalt drills drilled that out as well - so eventually I just carefully sized up drill bits until the bolt was no more. Found a new one, fitted with blue loctite - miraculously the threads were fine - then put the car back together (remembering a thin coating of copper grease on the back of the pads, for a change).So hopefully - that's that.
So I think I've learnt three things:
1) Either I've turned into the Hulk or (more likely) Fiats are made of cheese.
2) I'm available for any Fiat race team that needs me to strip down the back end of a 500 (had plenty of practice now).
3) I'm sticking to working on my Golf in future!
Cheers for everyone's help.
If you encounter any very small diameter bolts in the future may I recommend a 1/4 inch socket on a screwdriver type handle for tightening, reduces chance of breakage. Learned the hard way too.So as the final instalment (for anyone interested enough... I'm not... I lost interest weeks ago
So hopefully - that's that.
So I think I've learnt three things:
1) Either I've turned into the Hulk or (more likely) Fiats are made of cheese.
2) I'm available for any Fiat race team that needs me to strip down the back end of a 500 (had plenty of practice now).
3) I'm sticking to working on my Golf in future!
Cheers for everyone's help.
If you're new to car mechanics and have, erm, large hands, you could always get a precision 1/4" drive torque wrench until you develop a feel for working with these kind of bolts. Something like this.
Most folks new to the game tend to overtighten stuff, rather than the other way around.
Then thing that gets me - I've been working on cars for years now... started with a '66 Beetle when I left Uni (and did everything from changing swing arms to stripping the heads down), went through one [cursed] Ford and then a number of VWs - never had a problem before. Used to strip a lot of threads in my younger days (having overly heavy hands and in the youthful belief that tightening more made it safer) - these days I have torque wrenches (having learnt the hard way as well) and I'm very cautious; always check out torque figures and so on.
This brake change felt like I was being filmed for the next series of 'look at this idiot'.
This brake change felt like I was being filmed for the next series of 'look at this idiot'.
Every NEW job on the Fiat that's never been moved since manufacture tends to fight you all the way, often being seized or rusted away heads on stupidly small screws that should have really been stainless steel?
There are problems with using stainless in these sort of applications; S/S bolts have only about 3/4 the strength of HS steel ones, plus they're much more brittle; so tend to snap off without warning, which is obviously dangerous.
To be fair - I didn't have any problems doing the front brakes (about six months ago). Just the backs that decided to 'give me an opportunity to learn new skills'.
I am amazed you were able to drill out the broken screw extractor . Extractor must have been from the same cheese works that produced the offending screw.
Good work drilling through exact centre of screw.
You would not believe how relieved I was - I was on the brink of writing a Nordic saga about these -bleeping- brakes!
I suspect you are correct about the extractors though - sadly I was forced to buy off eBay because my local tool shop has shut (since the manufacturing companies next door to it have closed down).
Drills on the other hand, were amazing - 135 degree head / cobalt; didn't even need to centre punch (with a steady hand).
Please post where you you purchased drill bits from and price [emoji3]
These ones, although it looks like I bought them from Amazon, not eBay (d'oh):
Silverline 598435 Cobalt Drill Bit Set, 1.5-6 mm - 7 Pieces: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
For the massive price of 7 quid.
Can't say anything about their longevity, but they went through that bolt and stud extractor with a hand drill.
Funny you should mention working on a Golf. I had to give up the idea of changing my Mk7's rear discs simply because the caliper carrier was held in with recessed spline bolts. I bought the correct type of bit and it was too long to fit past the suspension. Ordered another and it promptly chewed out the head of the bolt, which by my estimate was tightened to 140Nm or more. At this point I just returned the new discs and gave the rusty originals a sand and a lick of paint in-situ. The fasteners that VW use are not only special weak shapes and very tight, but also difficult to reach. Of course it is quite possible that the Mk7 is worse than previous Golf models to work on.
But anyway, I can sympathise with the frustration you faced with the FIAT!
Things are probably a bit easier for us in NZ without the road salt. Did the difficulty on the 500 arise from the disc being corroded onto the hub? Normally it's a case of removing the caliper from the slider bolts, removing the caliper bracket from the axle bracket, then removing the disc from the hub. The hub stayed on when I did it. There will always be exceptions I guess and it does sound like a horrible job when it turns out that other way.
-Alex
But anyway, I can sympathise with the frustration you faced with the FIAT!
Things are probably a bit easier for us in NZ without the road salt. Did the difficulty on the 500 arise from the disc being corroded onto the hub? Normally it's a case of removing the caliper from the slider bolts, removing the caliper bracket from the axle bracket, then removing the disc from the hub. The hub stayed on when I did it. There will always be exceptions I guess and it does sound like a horrible job when it turns out that other way.
-Alex
Last edited:
