Technical Coolant change requirements.

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Technical Coolant change requirements.

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This enquiry relates to servicing the 1.2 Petrol 500, but presumably applies to all modern Fiat cars.... I've done a quick search but found nothing obvious.

My Mum's 500 is 6 years old with around 18,000 miles on so is due for a "major" service / check after an easy life as a local run-around. I'm going to change the cambelt and brake fluid (says every 2 years...). I'll skip the tappet clearance check and will NOT be changing the waterpump so spare me the lectures and advice on that subject please.

The issue is the engine coolant... the service handbook for all Fiat cars makes no mention of changing the coolent, even though all modern antifreeze products say they have a life of around 5 years. So is there something special about Fiat Paraflu that makes it miraculously last forever, along with the latest synthetic gearbox oils> :confused:
 
This enquiry relates to servicing the 1.2 Petrol 500, but presumably applies to all modern Fiat cars.... I've done a quick search but found nothing obvious.

My Mum's 500 is 6 years old with around 18,000 miles on so is due for a "major" service / check after an easy life as a local run-around. I'm going to change the cambelt and brake fluid (says every 2 years...). . So is there something special about Fiat Paraflu that makes it miraculously last forever, along with the latest synthetic gearbox oils> :confused:

No..

Just change it. As itll have debris from the build anyway
 
Re the brake fluid, be warned the rears(nipples) will likely be seized and are VERY easy to snap off, buy 2 new wheel cylinders sale or return just in case and if you do need to replace them getting off the hubs can be REALLY hard and if really hard tend to destroy the shoe fixings where drums are fitted, not tried moving our fronts but would guess these two are totally stuck, allow a day just for the brake fluid change, if you even manage it, let us know.
Whilst at the rear check the rear beam for rusting and treat it, also the shocks/drums/discs, and the state of the front shocks, one of ours, same age was leaking due to rusted through!
 
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I've checked under the rear, the beam has light rusting so a quick sand and paint should see it fine. Likewise the original exhaust will survive a while longer if I derust the welds and spray it up. Will put 3-in-1 penetrating oil round the bleed nipples as well.

I realise that suburban driving is not great for cars and especially the oil, the natural instinct is to look at the mileage and think "Oh, the oil only needs to be changed at 9000 / 12000 / 18000 mile intervals", and before you know it it's done 3 years of short stop-start journeys. :eek:

I've just done its second oil change and it was well overdue, drained every drop of the black and yucky old stuff and replaced with fully synth Lucas 5W/40 and new filter, did the plugs and air / pollen filters too. Plus a rear wiper blade. (y)
 
I've checked under the rear, the beam has light rusting so a quick sand and paint should see it fine. Likewise the original exhaust will survive a while longer if I derust the welds and spray it up. Will put 3-in-1 penetrating oil round the bleed nipples as well.

I realise that suburban driving is not great for cars and especially the oil, the natural instinct is to look at the mileage and think "Oh, the oil only needs to be changed at 9000 / 12000 / 18000 mile intervals", and before you know it it's done 3 years of short stop-start journeys. :eek:

I've just done its second oil change and it was well overdue, drained every drop of the black and yucky old stuff and replaced with fully synth Lucas 5W/40 and new filter, did the plugs and air / pollen filters too. Plus a rear wiper blade. (y)

Haynes manual says change the coolant at 4 years then every 2 also given low usage change oil every 6 months at most(Honda used to say every 12 weeks in such cases, no wonder they never went wrong)
 
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