Technical Clutch pedal and switch

Currently reading:
Technical Clutch pedal and switch

I have also just had this happen. 2011 twinair.

Trying to get someone to fix it now.

Does it cause your car to kangaroo between 2000-3500 rpm in 1st and 2nd, or have I developed another issue at the same time?

Im thinking of getting myself a welder for £100, but not sure if I would need to remove it from the car before welding or if I could do it in the car?
 
I have also just had this happen. 2011 twinair.

Trying to get someone to fix it now.

Does it cause your car to kangaroo between 2000-3500 rpm in 1st and 2nd, or have I developed another issue at the same time?

Im thinking of getting myself a welder for £100, but not sure if I would need to remove it from the car before welding or if I could do it in the car?
I think you will find it needs to be removed from the car. I managed to remove mine myself and replace it with one I purchased from eBay for £45 (I bought a complete box clutch and break pedal and just used the clutch pedal) . I removed the stealing column at the bottom this gave me a lot of room to remove the clutch pedal.. if yo are not that confident a mechanic will probably charge around £60/£80.
 
I think you will find it needs to be removed from the car. I managed to remove mine myself and replace it with one I purchased from eBay for £45 (I bought a complete box clutch and break pedal and just used the clutch pedal) . I removed the stealing column at the bottom this gave me a lot of room to remove the clutch pedal.. if yo are not that confident a mechanic will probably charge around £60/£80.
Steering column... Not steeling column 🙂
 
I have also just had this happen. 2011 twinair.

Trying to get someone to fix it now.

Does it cause your car to kangaroo between 2000-3500 rpm in 1st and 2nd, or have I developed another issue at the same time?

Im thinking of getting myself a welder for £100, but not sure if I would need to remove it from the car before welding or if I could do it in the car?

Yes this causes the kangaroo effect. My wife had the same issue. You cannot weld this in the car, it's a pedal off job.
 
Yes this causes the kangaroo effect. My wife had the same issue. You cannot weld this in the car, it's a pedal off job.
Just wanted to say thanks, as I bought a second hand pedal and stop start switch off ebay, replaced them, and all signs of kangarooing have gone. I did have to do proxi alignment after, but that might be down to me partially undoing a connector on the left of the footwell.

I had to undoo the steering column, but it's keyed, so it only goes in one position. Getting pedal back in was more difficult as you have the little spring on the back of the pedal fighting you.
 
Obviously not as uncommon as fiat suggest... I have exactly the same problem... Welding failure... I have shown the broken part of the clutch pedal and also how it should be.

I would also like to see a diagram of the pedal box assembly for the twinair 0.9 2012

Anybody point me in the right direction I would certainly be grateful
I've had same broken off on my 2012 TA Panda so I moved it out the way but what happens nex..???


I recon this damper bit is also the clutch peddle travel limiter and without it opens the clutch to Overstroking (clutch is pressed too far) and as a result the clutch release bearing and / or clutch pressure plate fails... so turns into a really expensive job if you also have a DMF lurking in there...

https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/t...e-overstroking-leading-to-clutch-fail.501431/

Found this as I'm also looking for a new peddle.
 
Back
Top