Technical Hatch wiring cables
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Technical Hatch wiring cables
The problem is that the wires bend through quite a sharp angle each time the hatch is opened and closed, but are sheathed with a type of plastic that isn't very resistant to bending.
If you repeatedly bend this type of cable, it'll break eventually. The only non-technical workaround I can think of is not to open the hatch unless you really need to.
Especially in very cold weather, when plastics are more brittle.
Replacing the affected part of the loom with a type of wire that's more flexible would likely be a permanent fix for the issue, but for some reason Fiat haven't seen fit to modify the design or specification of the wiring.
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Agree with jrkitching, I don't use the hatch much and mine is still fine after 5 years 
Since I need to open the hatch of my 2010 500 very often, I’ve had a section of the loom replaced with a super flexible repair kit after getting error messages:
http://www.autoteilemann.de/sencom-kabelbaum-reparatursatz-heckklappe-fiat-500-503020.html
According to the mechanic who overcharged me, almost all of the cables were frayed.
I think I’ve read somewhere that FIAT has addressed this problem in the meantime.
http://www.autoteilemann.de/sencom-kabelbaum-reparatursatz-heckklappe-fiat-500-503020.html
According to the mechanic who overcharged me, almost all of the cables were frayed.
I think I’ve read somewhere that FIAT has addressed this problem in the meantime.
That's a useful link. I wonder if anything similar is available in the UK aftermarket? I couldn't find anything from a quick Google search (though you could have this shipped from Germany).
There'll certainly be enough demand.
Care to share with us how much you paid?
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I forget the exact amount. The independent garage I was giving a try charged me for two hours while it took them only one. I know this because I waited outside reading a book. However I did bring in the repair kit myself, which is something they normally would have made some money on, and as I was happy my car was fully functioning again, so I let it slide. Of course I’m not going there again, either.
Yes..
That kit is horrifically expensive IMO
Id use something like this of the correct gauge
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/221408134394?nav=SEARCH
Some silicone wire of the right gauge and a soldering iron... I'd take the time to wire to the boot lock / heated screen elements and no plate lights rather than have 2 joints really close to the flexi and go a good 12" into the car so the flexing of the wires dont disturb the solder joints and heat shrink
That kit is horrifically expensive IMO
Id use something like this of the correct gauge
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/221408134394?nav=SEARCH
Some silicone wire of the right gauge and a soldering iron... I'd take the time to wire to the boot lock / heated screen elements and no plate lights rather than have 2 joints really close to the flexi and go a good 12" into the car so the flexing of the wires dont disturb the solder joints and heat shrink
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It certainly isn't cheap, but it does give you a replacement outer rubber sleeve.
I noticed on Google that there is a similar, but different, kit for the 500C.
I wonder if there is any way you can get this sleeve as a standalone part?
Do they split too? On my gp when I rewired itvi just reused the OEM flexi duct
I've had it repaired twice. £100 and £50 respectively. I use the tailgate about 14 times a day (7 x open and closed) so gets a lot of use. Car now 6 years old. It's not much to pay every 2-3 years. Annoying though when things start going weird electrically! Usually the parking sensor or the rear wiper is the thing to go first.
Piccolo Nero e Bella
Established member
Haven't seen anything to suggest that but I did notice that while my boot cabling is rather tight the partner's later build 'C' has about twice the length running from body to lid, suggesting there was some sort of issue. Actually I was sure there also used to be a plastic clip holding it to the hinge bracket but if there was it's disappeared since.
That's why Andy Monty and I suggest it be replaced with good quality extra flexible cable.
Standard quality auto electical cable can't cope with the repeated bending through a sharp angle that's caused by opening and closing the hatch.
It's why so many of these are failing.
the bits that breaks are the easiest to reach..,
BUT as others have pointed out,
getting the new joints on the cable as far away from the stress point ( hatch to body joint) will aid the future life of the repair,
Charlie
Piccolo Nero e Bella
Established member
Just so. I believe it's also best to avoid solder and go with good quality crimp connectors and tools in automotive applications.
What's your reasoning behind that?
The most obvious advantage I can think of is that it would make it easier to replace the critical part of the cable should that prove necessary in the future.
In the past I've tended to solder permanent wiring repairs, and use removable crimp connectors on anything I might need to take apart again.
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TrevC
Established member
The advantage with crimps is you don't get the stress point where the solder ends - the wire will be stiff at the joint, then flex where the solder hasn't run. This is a weak spot. However, if all the joints are sheathed in heatshrink, and are pushed into the body/tailgate they should be fine. Silicone sheathed flexible wire is available from R/C model suppliers. Giantshark.co.uk sell it, I would think that 18swg would be adequate. Mine hasn't failed yet after 3 years plus, but I'm standing by......
which is why i suggested keeping any joints away from the hinged area the heat shrink should support the join..
remember things like the heated rear screen has a much higher load than the boot catch wiring or the number plate lights... so wire must be load specific
remember things like the heated rear screen has a much higher load than the boot catch wiring or the number plate lights... so wire must be load specific
