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Old 22-08-2014   #16
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Quote Originally Posted by varesecrazy View Post
the bits that breaks are the easiest to reach..,


BUT as others have pointed out,

getting the new joints on the cable as far away from the stress point ( hatch to body joint) will aid the future life of the repair,


Charlie
Just so. I believe it's also best to avoid solder and go with good quality crimp connectors and tools in automotive applications.
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Old 22-08-2014   #17
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Quote Originally Posted by Piccolo Nero e Bella View Post
Just so. I believe it's also best to avoid solder and go with good quality crimp connectors and tools in automotive applications.
What's your reasoning behind that?

The most obvious advantage I can think of is that it would make it easier to replace the critical part of the cable should that prove necessary in the future.

In the past I've tended to solder permanent wiring repairs, and use removable crimp connectors on anything I might need to take apart again.
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Old 22-08-2014   #18
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

The advantage with crimps is you don't get the stress point where the solder ends - the wire will be stiff at the joint, then flex where the solder hasn't run. This is a weak spot. However, if all the joints are sheathed in heatshrink, and are pushed into the body/tailgate they should be fine. Silicone sheathed flexible wire is available from R/C model suppliers. Giantshark.co.uk sell it, I would think that 18swg would be adequate. Mine hasn't failed yet after 3 years plus, but I'm standing by......
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Old 22-08-2014   #19
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

which is why i suggested keeping any joints away from the hinged area the heat shrink should support the join..

remember things like the heated rear screen has a much higher load than the boot catch wiring or the number plate lights... so wire must be load specific
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Old 22-08-2014   #20
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

So shall i solder the cables togeather or use crimp connecters????
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Old 22-08-2014   #21
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Quote Originally Posted by cloud777 View Post
So shall i solder the cables togeather or use crimp connecters????


solder will take less space - just support with "heat-shrink"
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Old 23-08-2014   #22
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Quote Originally Posted by jrkitching View Post
What's your reasoning behind that?

The most obvious advantage I can think of is that it would make it easier to replace the critical part of the cable should that prove necessary in the future.

In the past I've tended to solder permanent wiring repairs, and use removable crimp connectors on anything I might need to take apart again.
Not my reasoning so much as what I've gleaned from working with solder in electronics and also from the very experienced gentleman who did some custom work on my ute some years ago. He usually rebuilds Toyota FJ40 Landcruisers up from wrecks for off-road competition and refuses to consider soldered joints because of their tendency to fail in that (admittedly extreme) environment due to vibration and fatigue. He was very persuasive...

Don't misinterpret me, I'm not suggesting it's wrong to use solder - just better to use crimping.
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Old 23-08-2014   #23
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Problem with the fiats is the loom wires are that small the crimp will likely sever the cable i had problems with my grande puntos "professionally" installed towbar as the standard Blue 3m Scotch locks were too big to make a sound secure connection to the rear lighting harness wires.

I ended up stripping some wire off the rear loom doing a twist and solder joint then wrapping in self amalgamating insulation tape to support the joint never had any problems after that ...

yes soldering can leave the repaired section brittle but its not a issue if the joint is fully supported .

I'd also wrap in cloth loom tape after heat shrinking to prevent the wires chafing on any sharp bits of trim or bodywork panels and again add more support
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Old 23-08-2014   #24
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Quote Originally Posted by cloud777 View Post
So shall I solder the cables together or use crimp connectors????
If you use a metal cored heatshrink sleeve and a bit of ingenuity you could do both, I'm thinking something like this.

My suggestion is to loose fit the splice over the cable, slide it out of the way, securely twist the ends of the wires together and solder. Slide the splice back so that the soldered part is wholly inside the metal sleeve, then without crimping, apply heat to shrink the splice firmly down onto the outer sleeve of the cable.

The metal core of the splice will protect the transition between the soldered and unsoldered parts from breaking, and you will also have the better electrical integrity of the soldered connection.

Choose the right type of cable and you'll have a fix that's better than new.
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Old 25-08-2014   #25
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Well i just ended up using crimp connectors, lets see how long this lasts
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Old 27-08-2014   #26
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Quote Originally Posted by cloud777 View Post
Well i just ended up using crimp connectors, lets see how long this lasts
any pictures..??

as that could help future members with the same issue,

charlie
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Old 27-08-2014   #27
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Quote Originally Posted by varesecrazy View Post
any pictures..??

as that could help future members with the same issue,

charlie
no sorry, i already sealed everthing up now, but it is fairley a easy job
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Old 15-09-2014   #28
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Quote Originally Posted by cloud777 View Post
Well i just ended up using crimp connectors, lets see how long this lasts
Did you cut through the rubber tubing to get to the wires underneath, if so how hard was it to roll up the rubber tubing over the crimped connectors ?
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Old 15-09-2014   #29
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Quote Originally Posted by arorat View Post
Did you cut through the rubber tubing to get to the wires underneath, if so how hard was it to roll up the rubber tubing over the crimped connectors ?
I wouldn't expect the crimped connectors to be anywhere near the rubber tubing - you need to splice in new pieces of cable, and each wire will have two connectors, one on each side of the outer sleeve.

You need to splice into ALL the wires, not just the ones that have been damaged.

Have a look at the picture of the aftermarket repair kit in the link I posted earlier and you will see the sort of thing I'm talking about.

That kit isn't cheap - but it comes with all the connectors, you do get a new rubber boot and it's likely the easiest way of fixing it if you plan on doing it yourself.

Bodging the severed wires back together won't last long - there are folks here who've had that done and are now on their second or third repair. Done properly, it should be fixed for life.
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Last edited by jrkitching; 15-09-2014 at 19:17.
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Old 15-09-2014   #30
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Re: Hatch wiring cables

Your post spells it out what has to be done, thanks again.

btw: I see a market for FF to start selling Fiat consumables.
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