Mighty Fergus said:

I have a feeling however that these particular electrical problems have the potential to a real pain in the backside if not addressed.

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You really do need to have this fixed(hatch wiring) before you end up with the "Christmas tree" of lights on the dash which can sometimes then break more critical systems like air bags or abs.
It probably won't work but try knocking hard on the top of the silver boot handle in the middle, like on a door, and see if the boot release works, this is what we've found works for ours when it doesn't cooperate sounds crazy but works every time, iffy micro switch, yours however maybe suffering more due to the wires, which may at some point break such that even the remote fails to open the lid?

John202020 said:

You really do need to have this fixed(hatch wiring) before you end up with the "Christmas tree" of lights on the dash which can sometimes then break more critical systems like air bags or abs.
It probably won't work but try knocking hard on the top of the silver boot handle in the middle, like on a door, and see if the boot release works, this is what we've found works for ours when it doesn't cooperate sounds crazy but works every time, iffy micro switch, yours however maybe suffering more due to the wires, which may at some point break such that even the remote fails to open the lid?

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Thanks, I have been fearing the worst for some time to be honest, but lack the required skills and confidence to have a go at fixing this myself. Unfortunately I'm not aware of any local auto electricians though I will ask around. I've bookmarked the link put up by Mick F as it could come in very handy, even if the number of wires in the pic displayed are a bit offputting.

I'll go and give the handle a good wallop, wouldn't be surprised if it walloped me back lol.

John202020 said:

You really do need to have this fixed(hatch wiring) before you end up with the "Christmas tree" of lights on the dash which can sometimes then break more critical systems like air bags or abs.
It probably won't work but try knocking hard on the top of the silver boot handle in the middle, like on a door, and see if the boot release works, this is what we've found works for ours when it doesn't cooperate sounds crazy but works every time, iffy micro switch, yours however maybe suffering more due to the wires, which may at some point break such that even the remote fails to open the lid?

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So I've gone ahead and ordered the repair kit as linked to earlier in this thread, I will update in due course hopefully with good news. In the meantime I've noticed that the radio appears to have become afflicted, almost as if going in and out of signal all the time, loss of volume and clarity on any station. So I'm hoping that this fix also addresses the radio? If not, what next?

I've heard the base of the roof aerial can get corroded it could be that, careful sliding of ones hand under the roof lining is required

Folks I’m going to have to replace this wiring as I have a crazy rear wiper that runs when I start the car and the middle brake light is now not working. I like the silicon wire option because of the flexibility of the wires but can any of you guys tell me what AWG size
Wire is needed for this job?

beanderb4 said:

Folks I’m going to have to replace this wiring as I have a crazy rear wiper that runs when I start the car and the middle brake light is now not working. I like the silicon wire option because of the flexibility of the wires but can any of you guys tell me what AWG size
Wire is needed for this job?

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Think I used 16awg it was quite thin all but two don't carry much current at all (maybe a few amps) only the heated rear screen live and earth are chunky like 20A cable

hi, do you still do fixing fiat 500 rear wiper motor.
ours just goes when you switch the ignition on. thanks.

angieandsimon said:

hi, do you still do fixing fiat 500 rear wiper motor.
ours just goes when you switch the ignition on. thanks.

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The motor is fine as it works, your problem is the wires going into the boot lid these have broken and are shorting out, have this fixed as soon as possible

angieandsimon said:

hi, do you still do fixing fiat 500 rear wiper motor.
ours just goes when you switch the ignition on. thanks.

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Runs all the time.. or it runs briefly before the engine is started?

John202020 said:

The motor is fine as it works, your problem is the wires going into the boot lid these have broken and are shorting out, have this fixed as soon as possible

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Exactly why you shouldn't slam the boot lid shut too hard.

cloud777 said:

Hi, fiat 500 rear wiper comes on when you start engine?
comes on when you start engine and does not reset back to auto set position when it stops out of position. you have to judge it by hand.

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The thin green wire in the hatch has been severed. This is the live feed to the rear wiper and is the middle wire to the wiper switch. It allows the wiper to park. Problems when it is severed, it turns on for about five seconds when you start the ignition and it also won't park. This is a common problem as the wires are continuously being stretched and pulled when the boot is opened and closed. This is a design fault from Fiat. Can be fixed, pull the rubber housing that protects the wires back and repair the broken or exposed wires by soldering, then protect them with either a sheath (see my photos) and insulation tape and put back. This sorted the problem.

AlantheAstro said:

The thin green wire in the hatch has been severed. This is the live feed to the rear wiper and is the middle wire to the wiper switch. It allows the wiper to park. Problems when it is severed, it turns on for about five seconds when you start the ignition and it also won't park. This is a common problem as the wires are continuously being stretched and pulled when the boot is opened and closed. This is a design fault from Fiat. Can be fixed, pull the rubber housing that protects the wires back and repair the broken or exposed wires by soldering, then protect them with either a sheath (see my photos) and insulation tape and put back. This sorted the problem.

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Our car has just done exactly this (2017 - 58k).

The other wires with a small amount of damage mostly to the sheeving did you just tape these up with electrical tape?

When replacing the small green wire, is it worth extending it slightly to give it some more flex or not unless you are replacing the whole loom?

I didn’t intend on repairing them all with it being winter only the damaged ones, but I guess I can see how long each takes me.

I have plenty of good 12AWG silicone wire and heat shrink and used to do a lot of small stuff (laptops, models etc) maybe 15 years ago but nothing recently.

I would add a little

The problem occurs because the wire bends each time the hatch is opened/shut. The Panda (and most other cars) reduce this by moving the entry points at body and hatch further apart, so the wires twist instead.
Be careful with extending wires. If this adds slack, and allows gentler movement, all good, but if the excess puts pressure on, by being in the way, it may make things worse, or no different. Shorter, of course, will only make things worse.
If repairing several wires, take care to stagger the joints, so they don't fight for space. Seems an obvious tip, but easy to forget.

And fixed thanks for the advice. Not my finest work but the iron was struggling a bit in the cold & it is a job you need three dexterous warm hands for!

I just wrapped the others in insulation tape to protect where the PVC has been cut.

I added about an inch of 18awg wire, even finer gauge than this would have been better but it’s what I had to hand. Will see if it reoccurs as when reassembled it was maybe 5mm longer than would have been best practice. If I get through to the spring I can reassess and do it with a new iron.

Mighty Fergus said:

aha this is touching on one of the ongoing electrical problems I mentioned that are affecting wee Fergus.

His boot can only be opened via the key, attempting to pop open by pressing the boot release itself fails. The rear wiper comes on every time you turn the ignition key, settling wherever it wants on the rear window. And then, just to let me know he's the boss, when you attempt to use the screenwash it's a real hash bash. Pushing forward releases screenwash but you need to manually operate the front wipers, all the while the back wiper is also going as it seems to think it too was asked to wash/ wipe. Same thing happens when you attempt to clean rear window.

And then the illumination bulbs on the heater control panel. I assumed the bulbs had gone out months ago, looked up the youtube video showing how to change them and was about to do so when completely randomly they have came back on.

Character building. Wife thinks the car should have been called Herbie as he does what he wants.

I have a feeling however that these particular electrical problems have the potential to a real pain in the backside if not addressed.

All that and I can say driving the wee car is great fun and puts a smile on my face. Not powerful in any way, but a hoot at what it does do well.

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Hi there, I know you posted this years ago but I have bought a 500 16 plate, had it 6 weeks and I am experience all sorts of issues. The same as a lot of yours posted here. What was your outcome? I am wondering if all these little things are part of a bigger more worrying issue? Thanks

@VW1971

Probably rear hatch wiring...

But use your warranty.. thats what you paid for

varesecrazy said:

@VW1971

Probably rear hatch wiring...

But use your warranty.. thats what you paid for

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My warranty is 3 months only and covers engine.

VW1971 said:

Hi there, I know you posted this years ago but I have bought a 500 16 plate, had it 6 weeks and I am experience all sorts of issues. The same as a lot of yours posted here. What was your outcome? I am wondering if all these little things are part of a bigger more worrying issue? Thanks

Click to expand...

The rear hatch wiring issue is extremely common; it's a well-known design fault on the 500 and is regularly reported here.

The cable which runs between the hatch and bodyshell is bent through a sharp angle every time the hatch is opened. The wiring used by Fiat isn't capable of coping with the stress this puts on the loom, and standard automotive cable isn't adequate either, so many repairs fail after a relatively short time. The only permanent fix is to splice extra flexible cable into all of the individual wires, extending on both sides to a point where the wiring isn't subject to repeated bending. Any other method of repair will be temporary at best.

The biggest concern is that there have been reports of collateral damage if this fault results in a stray electrical feed; the airbag ECU seems to be particularly vulnerable.

So any loss of electrical functionality in the rear hatch should never be ignored. My suggestion to anyone experiencing such an issue is do not open the hatch without first disconnecting the battery until the relevant part of the wiring loom has been inspected and found to be sound. If the wiring is damaged, don't reconnect the battery until it's been properly fixed.

The hatch can easily be opened with the battery disconnected by using the emergency release button from inside the car.

VW1971 said:

My warranty is 3 months only and covers engine.

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If you bought the car from a dealer, you still have a legal right to a repair.

Faults, repairs and refunds​

Between 30 days and 6 months

If a fault comes to light after 30 days but before 6 months you’re entitled to a repair, replacement or refund.

• It’s assumed in law that the fault was present at the time of purchase unless the seller can prove otherwise.
• Unless you’ve agreed otherwise, the seller (dealer) has only one opportunity to repair (or replace) the faulty vehicle after which, if they fail to repair it, you’re entitled to a refund.
• In the event of a refund following a failed attempt at repair during the first six months the seller may make a 'reasonable' adjustment to the amount refunded to take account of the use that you’ve had of the vehicle.

Any recommendations on replacement looms JRK?

AECars & Fiat Workshop both sell them as well as others for about £50, they all look the same but if they are quality wise or not.

Mulling it over I think I’d prefer to crimp fit a replacement rather than solder the whole lot. Given mine is a temporary repair I’d like to line up a replacement.

Should be simple to cut the wires one at a time and crimp them, hide/push any excess into the boot or chassis (or cut a short length out) then I assume and jobs a good’un.