Technical 500 clutch noise

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Technical 500 clutch noise

Ljclooby

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I have recently bought a feb 2011 fiat 500 0.9 twin air sport. 32,000 miles. It's great but when I reverse there is a humming/vibration from the clutch it also does it when slowing down through the gears. People turn and look thinking there's something wrong but my local dealer says its normal, they all do it! Can anyone shed any light on it for me because I just can't believe that's its normal! Thanks
 
New clutch needed me thinks ..... Is it possible to try another car to see if it is common .
 
New clutch needed me thinks ..... Is it possible to try another car to see if it is common .

I know what you mean, there is some feedback through the clutch when reversing and also if engine braking. I don't think the little motor is very happy with engine braking as there is so little inertia due to low weight if the flywheel and moving internal part.
Try to get a drive in another TA to compare but I think what you describe is normal. I've had mine from new and its always been thus way.
Hope this helps.
Ian.
 
I have recently bought a feb 2011 fiat 500 0.9 twin air sport. 32,000 miles. It's great but when I reverse there is a humming/vibration from the clutch it also does it when slowing down through the gears. People turn and look thinking there's something wrong but my local dealer says its normal, they all do it! Can anyone shed any light on it for me because I just can't believe that's its normal! Thanks

Like a reasonably high pitched squark? Mine does it in cold/damp conditions when the engine is cold, it generally goes away after warming up.

I think it's a resonance of the damper springs in the centre of the clutch plate, and is inherent because of the engine - you're only getting one firing impulse per rotation of the crank (instead of two with a four cylinder engine), so that causes more torsional vibration. Also why FIAT have fitted a DMF to the bigger cars with the TA engine in, to get the required refinement.
 
You know that's not true. It's different because of how the engine is throttled (by varying the valve lift), and the fact that it has regenerative braking working through the alternator causing a different 'feel'. Also, the gearing is reasonably high.


Sorry I meant in comparison to the 1.4 the level of engine braking of the TA is really low.
 
One more potential source of future problems. Let's hope they've spent more on the DMF than they've spent on the suspension.

Personally, I've never had a problem with DMFs. But then, by the amount of people I see holding their cars on the clutch at traffic lights, I suspect that might be why DMFs have a bad name. Those who are mechanically sympathetic generally don't have problems, I feel.
 
Thanks bgunn will see how it goes mayb will be better when weather warms up a bit!
 
It's certainly not fatal, if you slip the clutch quite hard to get it hot (just as a test), you'll find it shuts up (the heat will get dumped into the centre of the plate, and heat the springs up, changing their resonance). Don't do that too often though - but it'll prove a point!
 
Go out with the dealer in your car, and then in one of their cars. Then see if it is the same.

"Sorry, Sir, they all do that" is the first hiding place of a crappy dealer.
 
ok so now ive got a sqeaky clutch pedal!
had gearbox recon & clutchpack 2 months ago just been up and he tried wd40 on the clutch slave bt still a bad squeak


booked in sat for investigation
were can I get a new clutch slave?
 
Almost anywhere, and they can be had cheaply, but I doubt that's the cause of the squeak.
yes he said it could be that or inside the gearbox! wd40 did help but as I pulled in home it started again
I just wanted to rule out the slave but it may be gearbox out again?!
banghead.gif
 
yes he said it could be that or inside the gearbox

My money would be on some part of the clutch actuating mechanism not being lubricated (not easy as you definitely don't want any lubricant on the working surfaces of the clutch), rather than the gearbox itself. However, it's necessary to drop the gearbox to inspect it.

There's a parallel thread running in the Panda section just now which you might find interesting. We're currently discussing using graphite as a lubricant for clutch actuating parts.
 
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My money would be on some part of the clutch actuating mechanism not being lubricated (not easy as you definitely don't want any lubricant on the working surfaces of the clutch), rather than the gearbox itself. However, it's necessary to drop the gearbox to inspect it.

There's a parallel thread running in the Panda section just now which you might find interesting. We're currently discussing using graphite as a lubricant for clutch actuating parts.
JR what do you think has caused it to dry out? Or does it just happen naturally.. ?
 
Natural you have the release bearing pressing on the metal clutch forks and the arm pressing the bearing, it could well stop after a while, our car did it for a bit,
only does it when I drive for a long distance and only when I re start the car after stopping short half hour trips like today nothing no squeeking
 
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