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Old 02-03-2012   #31
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by TrevC View Post
Apparently the turbo linkage detachment was rare, and the failure mode is power loss, not damage. That's presumably why they leave it until a service is being done. They could have kept quiet and crossed their fingers until the warranty was up, but the fact that they didn't suggests that FIAT are making some attempt to improve reliability/customer satisfaction. That last sentence is bound to start a flurry of responses!

After getting the ex 500 serviced last November I got a call from Fiat customer service as to how satisfied I was with the service. I didn't exactly give a glowing report but gave a 'balanced' feedback without totally burning them. Received a call during the week from the actual garage where the service had been done wanting to double check on my contact details looking for email address, etc. and if I still had the 500. Told them that I had a MiTo now and being primarily an Alfa (now Chyrsler) garage there was a sign of relief. She preceded to ask the same questions I was asked by HQ but I refused saying that I had already answered them and that I would prefer to be an anoymous - fat chance of that.
Dealers are trying harder now but the tightening of the belts on entertaining warranty claims there's a lot of communication between the Dealer and Fiat CS and it's creating an overhead.
Can't help thinking that some notification should have gone to TA owners - it might have swayed a few to stick with Fiat on the servicing.
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Old 22-03-2012   #32
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Finally got to changing the oil and filter today -- seems to have gone well, I'll post a write-up with photos shortly.

One thing that bothered me however was: the oil that came out looked like it had been in the engine for a year! Dark, nearly-black stuff that smelled of burned toast to me -- I was very surprised to drain that from an engine only 3 months old and having done only 3500 miles!
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Old 26-03-2012   #33
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Good write up, also the 'engine floor' is more commonly known as the engine tray
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Old 26-03-2012   #34
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

The oil filter looks like its upside down in your photo? I thought they were meant to hang downwards? Assuming I'm looking at the photo correctly
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Old 29-03-2012   #35
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

It's not a cartridge oil filter - it's a 'canister' type that sits inside a housing (like BMW and VAG use)..
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Old 31-03-2012   #36
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Changed mine today as the car was just shy of 3000 miles. Easy enough job, although one thing to say is that the drain plug is as soft as cheese, so be very careful not to allow the socket/spanner to slip and mash the head of the bolt.

I took the top cover/air filter off to ease the access to the filter, as said it's a bit of a tight fit and best to place a load of rags around the area to avoid dropping oil on hoses etc.
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Old 01-04-2012   #37
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by bgunn View Post
Changed mine today as the car was just shy of 3000 miles. Easy enough job, although one thing to say is that the drain plug is as soft as cheese, so be very careful not to allow the socket/spanner to slip and mash the head of the bolt.

I took the top cover/air filter off to ease the access to the filter, as said it's a bit of a tight fit and best to place a load of rags around the area to avoid dropping oil on hoses etc.
Realise that it's hard to know from a visual but was your oil anything like what newcheck described on his oil change ?

Would you recommend changing the washer on the drain plug at the same time given that it probably only costs a few pence ?
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Old 01-04-2012   #38
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by loveshandbags View Post
Would you recommend changing the washer on the drain plug at the same time given that it probably only costs a few pence ?
It's certainly good practice to change the sump plug washer, particularly as they only cost a few pence. The difficulty is that they're sometimes not that easy to get hold of.

I've long thought it'd be a good idea to include one with each oil filter sold - it would add very little to the cost & it'd be there when you needed it.

1.2 owners don't need to concern themselves with this, as those models use a tapered thread on the sump plug to provide the necessary seal - no washer is needed.
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Last edited by jrkitching; 01-04-2012 at 12:13.
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Old 01-04-2012   #39
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by Most Easterly Pandas View Post
Good write up, also the 'engine floor' is more commonly known as the engine tray
Thanks, 'pandas! Yeah, sorry about the "engine bay floor" thing I knew it wasn't quite right, but couldn't think of the right term!

Quote Originally Posted by jrkitching View Post
It's certainly good practice to change the sump plug washer, particularly as they only cost a few pence. The difficulty is that they're sometimes not that easy to get hold of.
Precisely. It's a shame I forgot to measure mine though, since now we won't know until someone else does an oil change It should be ok to reverse the washer once, since it will have been crushed in the opposite direction before. I suppose there might be the issue that, having been crushed once, it may have become brittle and need annealing... But I think it should be ok for one more use, in a pinch
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Old 01-04-2012   #40
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by loveshandbags View Post
Realise that it's hard to know from a visual but was your oil anything like what newcheck described on his oil change ?

Would you recommend changing the washer on the drain plug at the same time given that it probably only costs a few pence ?
I annealed my sump plug washer, and flattened it with some 600 grit wet+dry - the easiest way would be to chuck it an replace it.

The oil was dark and quite smelly, but had plenty of 'lubricity' - when rubbed between thumb and forefinger, so I have no doubt it would have been fine if left, but I just feel much more comfortable replacing it and the filter after the engine had done a few thousand miles..
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Old 02-04-2012   #41
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by bgunn View Post
I annealed my sump plug washer, and flattened it with some 600 grit wet+dry - the easiest way would be to chuck it an replace it.

The oil was dark and quite smelly, but had plenty of 'lubricity' - when rubbed between thumb and forefinger, so I have no doubt it would have been fine if left, but I just feel much more comfortable replacing it and the filter after the engine had done a few thousand miles..
Thanks for the feeback bgunn. Messy part is always getting rid of the waste oil. Luckily I have a local back street garage that takes it 'off my hands'. For anyone else a friendly Fastfit might oblige.
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Old 02-04-2012   #42
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by loveshandbags View Post
Thanks for the feeback bgunn. Messy part is always getting rid of the waste oil. Luckily I have a local back street garage that takes it 'off my hands'. For anyone else a friendly Fastfit might oblige.
Lol dump takes it for free normally
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Old 02-04-2012   #43
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by Most Easterly Pandas View Post
Lol dump takes it for free normally
Yup, used my local recycling centre for years to get rid of all of my waste oil, they have a huge metal tank which I'm told is regularly filled by motorists changing their own oil. Nothing however is free, I think you'll find you're paying for it through your Council Tax!
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Old 22-03-2014   #44
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

I've just serviced my twin air today. It is just over 3 years old and has 36000 miles. I was quoted by Fiat an service charge of 230 plus parts! Therefore I sourced the various parts myself (Air Filter, Oil Filter, Oil (5w-40 C3), Spark Plugs and a daytime running light bulb at a cost of 130 including front pads and discs. All quality OEM parts. The plugs come in at 30 for the pair!

It was one of the easiest services I have carried out and including front brakes took 1 1/2 hours.

First I jacked up the car and put it on axle stands, I then removed the plastic bottom tray (6 x 8mm bolts) so I had access to the sump plug. I loosened the oil filler cap, then removed the sump plug. NOTE: despite internet searches and my local parts supplier there was no reference to a sump plug washer. This is when I discovered the washer! therefore a call to my supplier and a new washer was on its way to me. The copper washer is 14mm outside diameter and 12.5 mm inner diameter and is a crushable washer. I drained the oil and whilst this was happening began removing the engine top cover.

2 8mm bolts located at the front of the cover secure it in place, it has a large diameter (approx 22mm) plastic lug at the rear which locates into a rubber grommet. The intake hose is secured with a jubilee clip on the left side and a hose witha hose clip on the right side, these both need disconnecting. Once this is done, the top plastic cover can be removed, turn it over to reveal the air filter housing. The air filter is secured in place with 6 8mm screws. The filter was last changed by fiat 12000 miles ago and was very heavily soiled. Easy to replace.

While the top cover was off, it was easier to remove the oil filter which is on the back left side of the engine. It is a cannister type filter in a plastic topped housing. You need a 25mm socket, knuckle joint and extension to remove this. There are quite a few threads so it takes quite a few turns to remove the filter. The filter is clipped into the plastic top of the housing. The replacement comes with a new seal. When refitting, screw the filter and top housing in by hand until resistance is felt, then carefully using the socket tighten it, on the top of the housing it recommends 25Nm torque maximum. Be careful of over torquing as it is plastic going into a metal body so it would be easy to damage the thread.

whilst the oil was still draining, I changed the spark plugs (NGK Iridium Very long thread). For this you will need a small plug socket and an extension of at least 150mm. On the top of the engine are the 2 HT coils (black rectangular) secured with an 8mm bolt each. Once the bolt is removed, pull upwards and the coil will release (with a slight popping sound). You can then see down to the spark plug. Effort required to undo the plugs was light, the plug came out easily with the socket and extension. I used the socket to put the new plugs in and turn them until hand tight to ensure no cross threading of the plugs, then a slight turn with the ratchet handle without forcing it. I could not find a torque setting for this.

All I needed to do then was replace the air filter /top cover assembly, refit the sump plug with new washer, top up with oil and it was done.

while the car was on the stands, I removed the front wheels, and changed the disks and pads. OEM pads have wear sensors which are easily fitted. Each main caliper is held in place with 2 screw in pins on the inner side of the calipers. A wind back tool for the pistons is advised and makes the job of fitting the new pads easily. The discs just pull off the hubs and replace in reverse order. While I was in the front RH wheel arch area, I replace the daytime running light bulb which had failed. Easier with the wheel removed.

Overall, I found this job a lot easier than expected and the original quote of servicing did not include front brakes. Therefore I have saved myself a tidy little sum as the labour cost of 230 for just the servicing I consider to be extortionate for what would take a trained Fiat mechanic only a fraction of the time it took me.

I know I don't get a dealer stamp in my service book, but I will be able to change the oil more frequently at a fraction of the cost. I also doubt that the air filter was changed at the last servicing after seeing the state it was in.

I did take pictures at the various stages if anyone wishes to see them.
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Last edited by wasaloadie; 22-03-2014 at 17:00.
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Old 22-03-2014   #45
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by wasaloadie View Post
I've just serviced my twin air today. It is just over 3 years old and has 36000 miles. I was quoted by Fiat an service charge of 230 plus parts! Therefore I sourced the various parts myself (Air Filter, Oil Filter, Oil (5w-40 C3), Spark Plugs and a daytime running light bulb at a cost of 130 including front pads and discs. All quality OEM parts. The plugs come in at 30 for the pair!

It was one of the easiest services I have carried out and including front brakes took 1 1/2 hours.

First I jacked up the car and put it on axle stands, I then removed the plastic bottom tray (6 x 8mm bolts) so I had access to the sump plug. I loosened the oil filler cap, then removed the sump plug. NOTE: despite internet searches and my local parts supplier there was no reference to a sump plug washer. This is when I discovered the washer! therefore a call to my supplier and a new washer was on its way to me. The copper washer is 14mm outside diameter and 12.5 mm inner diameter and is a crushable washer. I drained the oil and whilst this was happening began removing the engine top cover.

2 8mm bolts located at the front of the cover secure it in place, it has a large diameter (approx 22mm) plastic lug at the rear which locates into a rubber grommet. The intake hose is secured with a jubilee clip on the left side and a hose witha hose clip on the right side, these both need disconnecting. Once this is done, the top plastic cover can be removed, turn it over to reveal the air filter housing. The air filter is secured in place with 6 8mm screws. The filter was last changed by fiat 12000 miles ago and was very heavily soiled. Easy to replace.

While the top cover was off, it was easier to remove the oil filter which is on the back left side of the engine. It is a cannister type filter in a plastic topped housing. You need a 25mm socket, knuckle joint and extension to remove this. There are quite a few threads so it takes quite a few turns to remove the filter. The filter is clipped into the plastic top of the housing. The replacement comes with a new seal. When refitting, screw the filter and top housing in by hand until resistance is felt, then carefully using the socket tighten it, on the top of the housing it recommends 25Nm torque maximum. Be careful of over torquing as it is plastic going into a metal body so it would be easy to damage the thread.

whilst the oil was still draining, I changed the spark plugs (NGK Iridium Very long thread). For this you will need a small plug socket and an extension of at least 150mm. On the top of the engine are the 2 HT coils (black rectangular) secured with an 8mm bolt each. Once the bolt is removed, pull upwards and the coil will release (with a slight popping sound). You can then see down to the spark plug. Effort required to undo the plugs was light, the plug came out easily with the socket and extension. I used the socket to put the new plugs in and turn them until hand tight to ensure no cross threading of the plugs, then a slight turn with the ratchet handle without forcing it. I could not find a torque setting for this.

All I needed to do then was replace the air filter /top cover assembly, refit the sump plug with new washer, top up with oil and it was done.

while the car was on the stands, I removed the front wheels, and changed the disks and pads. OEM pads have wear sensors which are easily fitted. Each main caliper is held in place with 2 screw in pins on the inner side of the calipers. A wind back tool for the pistons is advised and makes the job of fitting the new pads easily. The discs just pull off the hubs and replace in reverse order. While I was in the front RH wheel arch area, I replace the daytime running light bulb which had failed. Easier with the wheel removed.

Overall, I found this job a lot easier than expected and the original quote of servicing did not include front brakes. Therefore I have saved myself a tidy little sum as the labour cost of 230 for just the servicing I consider to be extortionate for what would take a trained Fiat mechanic only a fraction of the time it took me.

I know I don't get a dealer stamp in my service book, but I will be able to change the oil more frequently at a fraction of the cost. I also doubt that the air filter was changed at the last servicing after seeing the state it was in.

I did take pictures at the various stages if anyone wishes to see them.
Nice one! Post the pics!


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