On my 2013 500 pop, mileage 142,000,, Last month had check engine light came on had 12 codes and I forget what the all read but autozone says they all seemed tied to knock sensor, replaced the knock sensor and spark plugs and changed oil yesterday, car runs better then ever now, check engine light went off for a day but this morning it came back with 7 codes for knock sensor, ?? Any advice what to do next, car is running great like it did when I drove it off the lot in 2014 brand new. Is there more then one knock sensor?
Technical Knock sensor, check engine light
- Thread starter Talon282
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Knock sensor, check engine light
Need the codes read again though at that mileage check for Lambda codes?
Here are the codes I had come up which makes me think there is two sensors I’m going to chat up the fiat mechanic at the dealer on Monday to see what he thinks cause of a recall for some software update
Hmmmm you've got high and low and range issues along with system error totally guessing not the sensor but "what's reading/interpreting" the info?
Best wait for some more posters to come along with their input.
Best wait for some more posters to come along with their input.
I’m just using the machine that autozone has to read codes, I’m wondering if the recall for software upgrade that the dealer said is for shifting and starting issues,
What the hell is a knock sensor? Are they talking about the impact sensor inside the rear quarter panel or on facelift on the doors?
Knock sensor on the engine for detecting pre dentation of the fuel
As regards to the codes it sounds more like the diagnostic system could be mis reading the codes especially with regards to fiat engines not being very common in the USA
Not sure somewhere on the side on the engine block google says they are under the inlet manifold on the 1.2
No clue where on the OPs engine due to being a 1.4 multiair
The one I changed I found on aft center of the engine block pain in the ass to change if u don’t have a lift
This isn't what we refer to as the Lambda sensors is it? One on the bottom of the cat and one at the top of the exhaust manifold?
I would suggest finding someone that has MultiECUScan, which is Fiat specific software and will most likely tell you exactly where the problem lies rather than just a P code.
I would suggest finding someone that has MultiECUScan, which is Fiat specific software and will most likely tell you exactly where the problem lies rather than just a P code.
Nope something totally different These are normally mounted direct to the engine block
Attachments
The codes are saying the ecu is not seeing the knock sensor at all. The 1.4 16v only has 1 knock sensor listed, or 'detonation sensor' as Fiat likes to call it . Knock sensors are used to monitor the combustion/detonation event, they primarily tell you if there is a misfire but depending on the quality of programming in the ecu they can be used to recognise quality of fuel being used by the timing and power of detonation and have the ecu advance or retard the ignition timing.
If the replacemnet sensor was a quality part I'd check all fuses in the engine bay and fascia, check the connector plug for any dirt/oil ingress and check the wiring between the sensor and the ecu for continuity (pins no.36 and 51) also check for any dirt or corrosion at the ecu pins. If they all check out it would point to an ecu/software problem. I had the same problem on a bmw and found the connector plug was soaked in oil. Might also be worth getting yourself a cheap handheld code reader/scanner you can throw in the car, they're always handy to have. Save having to go and pay someone to do it...that's if the chatting up doesn't work!
If the replacemnet sensor was a quality part I'd check all fuses in the engine bay and fascia, check the connector plug for any dirt/oil ingress and check the wiring between the sensor and the ecu for continuity (pins no.36 and 51) also check for any dirt or corrosion at the ecu pins. If they all check out it would point to an ecu/software problem. I had the same problem on a bmw and found the connector plug was soaked in oil. Might also be worth getting yourself a cheap handheld code reader/scanner you can throw in the car, they're always handy to have. Save having to go and pay someone to do it...that's if the chatting up doesn't work!
Since I go in for a software upgrade tomorrow I’ll talk to the mechanic tomorrow about all that, but thank you for the suggestions . For having Thai many miles on my car, it has never really had trouble besides the blower motor and now the knock sensor , and right now the car is running like it’s brand new
Dealer wasnt much help just told me try to get a higher grade scanner to try to clear codes and to take the sensor back off and clean it and the area up
You can get a copy of MultiECUScan onto a windows laptop pretty easily..
Its FIAT engine specific.. so shouldnt throw you too far off track with misleading meanings.
What happens if you simply disconnect the sensor?
The sensor only comes into play when you demand a lot of power regardless of engine speed using high Octane fuel lessens the knocking, think in the US it's pretty low 87 or so here it's 95 min or 99+ for premium.
The sensor only comes into play when you demand a lot of power regardless of engine speed using high Octane fuel lessens the knocking, think in the US it's pretty low 87 or so here it's 95 min or 99+ for premium.
I run 90 to 93 octane I stay away from 87, I have a buddy who is a garage manager at pep boys he told me to bring it and I can use his personal scanner , He paid for Cuase he hated the autozone specials and he wanted a big boy like dealerships to use
As with most metrics, the US uses a different scale. There's RON, and MON, and now we have AKI, which basically is (RON+MON)/2. They're tested using different methodologies, so it's not just a simple numerical conversion.
You can't directly compare US 87 grade gas to UK fuels. If it's 87 AKI, that's roughly the equivalent of 92-93 octane here; 87 RON is the equivalent of 97-98 octane super unleaded.
Mid grade gas (US) is about the same as UK regular unleaded.
All now further complicated by the practice of blending varying amounts of ethanol.
Cars sourced locally should be set up to use a specific fuel (check your handbook) available in that local market. Imports are a different kettle of fish.
Last edited:
