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TwinAir oil and filter change
Published by nemchenk
26-03-2012
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Question TwinAir oil and filter change

As promised, here is the write-up:



As with all oil-changes, it helps if you take the car out for a drive first to warm up the oil -- it will drain more easily if it is warm. However, this will make working under the car more difficult, so beware.

1. Remove engine bay floor

Jack up the 500 and put it on axle stands or ramps. Never work on a vehicle supported only by a jack. I ended up using the scissor jack that came with the car as my bottle jack was too tall to get under the reinforced bits of floor.

Once you can get under the engine bay, remove the six anodized bolts and washers which hold the plastic engine-bay floor -- you will need a 10mm socket to do this.

Here is the floor after I removed it, with the bolt holes highlighted:
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00104-20120322-1159.jpg
Views:	3197
Size:	320.1 KB
ID:	101272

Once the bolts are removed, you can slide the floor towards the back of the car and remove it. This will expose the engine sump.

2. Drain engine sump

Locate the 17mm bolt towards the back of the sump:
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00102-20120322-1158.jpg
Views:	3122
Size:	325.3 KB
ID:	101273

Note that someone at the factory has painted a yellow line on mine to show the lining up of the bolt. Sneaky. Unfortunately, I did not notice this until I looked at the pictures for this write-up -- I'll need to do something about this before I take my 500 back for the first service...

Get a 3.5 litre or greater vessel under the sump. A long time ago, I invested in a wide circular drain pan with spout -- well worth the money!

Undo the sump bolt and drain the oil -- this will take some time, so get on with the rest of the job.

3. Replace oil filter

While the oil is draining, locate the filter housing -- it is near the top of the engine, at the back, just slightly offset to the right of the engine bay:
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00101-20120322-1158.jpg
Views:	3456
Size:	286.6 KB
ID:	101274

To undo the housing you will need a 24mm socket (I used a 15/16"), an extension bar, and a UJ adapter. Get all that together and unscrew the filter housing. There will be some oil still in there, so be careful not to spill it over the engine bay.

I found it quite difficult to get the filter and housing out from the engine bay -- it is just a little too big to be lifted out easily. What I found helped was rotating the housing 90 degrees, so that the filter was pointing up and out, then worming the whole thing out.

Drain any remaining oil by standing the filter and housing on some newspaper.

The filter cartridge is held in the housing by a circular clip, and is quite hard to pull out. Give it some welly: hold the housing with one hand, and pull the cartridge straight up and out with the other.

Clean the housing with newspaper or cloth.

Remove the old O-ring and discard.

Smear the new O-ring that comes with the new filter with clean engine oil, and replace in the groove on the housing.

Smear the felt seal on the new filter cartridge with clean oil and clip the cartridge into the housing.

Smear clean oil on the little O-ring on the overflow valve and the top of the cartridge in general.

Screw the filter and housing back onto the engine. At first do it by hand, being careful not to cross threads, and not to force anything.

As printed on the housing, torque up to 25Nm.

4. Replace sump plug

By now the sump should have finished draining. The sump bolt has a copper washer which deforms to make the seal. I didn't get a replacement at this point, as it is possible to reverse the washer and get an ok seal a second time around. I should have measured the washer before I refitted it, but I forgot -- sorry folks

Refit the sump plug bolt with the washer reversed.

Tighten until you feel the washer deform.

Wipe down the filter housing and sump drain to make sure that any oil which might leak will be easy to detect.

Pour the old oil into a receptacle and save to take to the dump -- most have an oil recycling facility.


5. Refill with oil

I used Selenia KPE as recommended by Fiat. Owners manual states 3.2 litres for sump and filter -- pour in 3 litres through the dipstick hole, using a funnel to keep the engine bay clean.

Check the level using the dipstick -- it won't be accurate since you have the car jacked up, but it's worth checking just to be sure.


6. Run the engine and re-check the level.

It's best to take it easy at first since the engine will get no oil until the filter housing fills up. I normally disconnect the coil to prevent the engine firing and crank it a few times just on the starter. Here, I just cranked a few times, cutting the ignition before the engine had a chance to start.

Once the filter housing is filled and the oil warning light goes out, start the engine. Run it for a little while (30 seconds), then turn it off.

Check under the car for leaks.

I like to start again and rev the engine a little bit at this point -- not too much as there is no load on it at the moment! -- to test the seals under pressure.

7. Refit engine bay floor

Once you are happy that the engine is not leaking oil, refit the engine bay floor -- first slide it into the two catches under the front bumper valence, then refit the six bolts and washers.

Tighten up in a cross-wise pattern to distribute the load evenly.

I didn't torque up, just did it "by feel".


8. Take the car out for a run, then re-check oil level and top up

Take the car off the axles.

Go for a drive, don't stress the engine.

Park up on level ground, use a spirit-level if you need to.

Let the oil drain into the sump -- 10 minutes should do it.

Check under the car for leaks.

Check the oil level using the dipstick and top up as necessary.




Hope this helps you TwinAir enthusiasts out there! Oh, and if you spot any clangers above, please let me know!
Thanks Eklipze3k, Mick F, Andy Monty, Melanabb, bgunn thanked for this post
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Old 31-03-2012   #1
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Quote:
Note that someone at the factory has painted a yellow line on mine to show the lining up of the bolt.
This is done automatically in most cases by the robot that torques bolts.

Nothing more than a sign that work is done and NOT a something to use when you put the bolt /nut back after it's been removed!

Quote Quote:
pour in 3 litres through the dipstick hole, using a funnel to keep the engine bay clean.
There's a lid on the valve-cover for refilling?

BTW, I love the twin-air-engine

Best regards from

Roland, Sweden
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Old 01-04-2012   #2
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by Ragamuffin View Post
This is done automatically in most cases by the robot that torques bolts.

Nothing more than a sign that work is done and NOT a something to use when you put the bolt /nut back after it's been removed!
My point is that I have to sort this out somehow before I take the car to the dealers for its first service! At the moment, it is obvious that someone has redone the sump drain bolt
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Old 13-06-2012   #3
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

DO you find your 500 use loads of oil?? Mine drinks loads. Also do you know how easy it is to change the interior air filter? Mine seems to smell like smelly eggs. Would this help with the smell if i change it?
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Old 27-09-2013   #4
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Worth bearing in mind that technically you're meant to run an 'Oil Change' procedure through Examiner/witech or MultiECUScan after doing this to clear the adaptions in the ECU that have been made in the uni-air unit as the old oil degraded.

So worth hunting down someone with a multiecuscan license and cable/interface or going back to the dealership to get this done. I'm doing an oil change on my TA tomorrow, so I'll provide pics of the process.
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Old 08-12-2013   #5
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Twins do use a drop of oil I work at Chrysler dealership and I top up my works yipsilon a bit aas for egg smell not sure buddy have u tried new underwear.? )
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Old 07-06-2014   #6
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by nemchenk View Post
As promised, here is the write-up:



As with all oil-changes, it helps if you take the car out for a drive first to warm up the oil -- it will drain more easily if it is warm. However, this will make working under the car more difficult, so beware.

1. Remove engine bay floor

Jack up the 500 and put it on axle stands or ramps. Never work on a vehicle supported only by a jack. I ended up using the scissor jack that came with the car as my bottle jack was too tall to get under the reinforced bits of floor.

Once you can get under the engine bay, remove the six anodized bolts and washers which hold the plastic engine-bay floor -- you will need a 10mm socket to do this.

Here is the floor after I removed it, with the bolt holes highlighted:
Attachment 101272

Once the bolts are removed, you can slide the floor towards the back of the car and remove it. This will expose the engine sump.

2. Drain engine sump

Locate the 17mm bolt towards the back of the sump:
Attachment 101273

Note that someone at the factory has painted a yellow line on mine to show the lining up of the bolt. Sneaky. Unfortunately, I did not notice this until I looked at the pictures for this write-up -- I'll need to do something about this before I take my 500 back for the first service...

Get a 3.5 litre or greater vessel under the sump. A long time ago, I invested in a wide circular drain pan with spout -- well worth the money!

Undo the sump bolt and drain the oil -- this will take some time, so get on with the rest of the job.

3. Replace oil filter

While the oil is draining, locate the filter housing -- it is near the top of the engine, at the back, just slightly offset to the right of the engine bay:
Attachment 101274

To undo the housing you will need a 24mm socket (I used a 15/16"), an extension bar, and a UJ adapter. Get all that together and unscrew the filter housing. There will be some oil still in there, so be careful not to spill it over the engine bay.

I found it quite difficult to get the filter and housing out from the engine bay -- it is just a little too big to be lifted out easily. What I found helped was rotating the housing 90 degrees, so that the filter was pointing up and out, then worming the whole thing out.

Drain any remaining oil by standing the filter and housing on some newspaper.

The filter cartridge is held in the housing by a circular clip, and is quite hard to pull out. Give it some welly: hold the housing with one hand, and pull the cartridge straight up and out with the other.

Clean the housing with newspaper or cloth.

Remove the old O-ring and discard.

Smear the new O-ring that comes with the new filter with clean engine oil, and replace in the groove on the housing.

Smear the felt seal on the new filter cartridge with clean oil and clip the cartridge into the housing.

Smear clean oil on the little O-ring on the overflow valve and the top of the cartridge in general.

Screw the filter and housing back onto the engine. At first do it by hand, being careful not to cross threads, and not to force anything.

As printed on the housing, torque up to 25Nm.

4. Replace sump plug

By now the sump should have finished draining. The sump bolt has a copper washer which deforms to make the seal. I didn't get a replacement at this point, as it is possible to reverse the washer and get an ok seal a second time around. I should have measured the washer before I refitted it, but I forgot -- sorry folks

Refit the sump plug bolt with the washer reversed.

Tighten until you feel the washer deform.

Wipe down the filter housing and sump drain to make sure that any oil which might leak will be easy to detect.

Pour the old oil into a receptacle and save to take to the dump -- most have an oil recycling facility.


5. Refill with oil

I used Selenia KPE as recommended by Fiat. Owners manual states 3.2 litres for sump and filter -- pour in 3 litres through the dipstick hole, using a funnel to keep the engine bay clean.

Check the level using the dipstick -- it won't be accurate since you have the car jacked up, but it's worth checking just to be sure.


6. Run the engine and re-check the level.

It's best to take it easy at first since the engine will get no oil until the filter housing fills up. I normally disconnect the coil to prevent the engine firing and crank it a few times just on the starter. Here, I just cranked a few times, cutting the ignition before the engine had a chance to start.

Once the filter housing is filled and the oil warning light goes out, start the engine. Run it for a little while (30 seconds), then turn it off.

Check under the car for leaks.

I like to start again and rev the engine a little bit at this point -- not too much as there is no load on it at the moment! -- to test the seals under pressure.

7. Refit engine bay floor

Once you are happy that the engine is not leaking oil, refit the engine bay floor -- first slide it into the two catches under the front bumper valence, then refit the six bolts and washers.

Tighten up in a cross-wise pattern to distribute the load evenly.

I didn't torque up, just did it "by feel".


8. Take the car out for a run, then re-check oil level and top up

Take the car off the axles.

Go for a drive, don't stress the engine.

Park up on level ground, use a spirit-level if you need to.

Let the oil drain into the sump -- 10 minutes should do it.

Check under the car for leaks.

Check the oil level using the dipstick and top up as necessary.




Hope this helps you TwinAir enthusiasts out there! Oh, and if you spot any clangers above, please let me know!
It's best to loosen off the oil filter holder before going under the car to remove the engine tray.
This gives the oil a chance to drain from the filter back down to the sump, (being that the oil filter holder is loose, this will allow air in and therefore allow the oil to drain downwards). Leading to minimum spillage and mess when the filter is removed prior to refilling with the car on the floor.
As this is the twinair engine, you need to reset the oil temperature sensor in the twinair module after each oil change too. This can only be done using Witech or Examiner.
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Old 24-07-2014   #7
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

I found your Article very useful and instructive, thank you! I'm going to service my TwinAir with an Oilchange myself, and I'll use your Guide! Great!
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Old 03-09-2015   #8
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by nemchenk View Post
As promised, here is the write-up: .............
................. Hope this helps you TwinAir enthusiasts out there! Oh, and if you spot any clangers above, please let me know!
Thank you so VERY much for this guide. It helped me completely and totally.

Here's some addition info:
1. The 17mm drain plug was damned tight on mine, and I needed a breaker bar to undo it. My normal ratchet wasn't long enough, mainly due to the difficulty of getting a good hand on it by being laid down under the car!

2. The filter unit was also damned tight and stiff to unscrew. Your statement of using an 11/16th AF socket was fine but my old Imperial sockets are "double-hex" sockets and the plastic of the filter unit is soft, so I've rounded the peaks off a little. I'll get a "single-hex" 24mm socket for next time.
Oh, and I took out the air filter box to get at it easier.

3. The copper washer on the drain plug you forgot to measure is:
1mm thick
16.5mm outside diameter
12mm inside diameter
I put the old one back on the other way up, but will source a new one (or two or three) new ones from somewhere.

Great stuff, and thank you again for giving me the confidence to do the job.
Regards,
Mick.
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Last edited by Mick F; 03-09-2015 at 10:21.
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Old 28-04-2016   #9
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Great article - thanks.
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Old 01-05-2016   #10
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Quote Originally Posted by Mitsutech View Post
It's best to loosen off the oil filter holder before going under the car to remove the engine tray.
This gives the oil a chance to drain from the filter back down to the sump, (being that the oil filter holder is loose, this will allow air in and therefore allow the oil to drain downwards). Leading to minimum spillage and mess when the filter is removed prior to refilling with the car on the floor.
As this is the twinair engine, you need to reset the oil temperature sensor in the twinair module after each oil change too. This can only be done using Witech or Examiner.
I'm reading this as I'm going to do the oil and filter on my TA Punto soon,
I'll be sure to try the air-bleed method, ( I'm not old enough to have serviced any Morris Minors.. ) so it'll be all new to me..life without a cartridge filter.

I suppose the "bag filters" on my Italian Race bikes aren't too dissimilar..but are 100% recyclable..,


anybody care to confirm / deny that the oil temp HAS to be done with examiner..my only access to this has now closed,
and I'm using MES for the other ECU resets.

Charlie
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Old 09-07-2016   #11
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Thanks for the excellent write up! I just did the oil and filter change on my 2011 500 TA myself for the first time, using Castrol Edge TD 5W40. I used an oil extractor (Pela 2000) and your write up gave me the confidence to do the filter.

Since the aftermarket filters (in the EU at least) seem to come without the rubber O-ring, I took a measurement of the ring that comes with the original part: 78mm diameter x 3mm thickness. For my next oil change, I'll get the Mann filter (without ring) and buy the O-ring separately.
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Old 21-05-2017   #12
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

If you haven't got a new copper washer for the sump plug, just heat up the old one with a blow torch until it's glowing red, then douse in cold water. Hey presto, you have a new washer.
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Old 28-10-2017   #13
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

Hi, followed the guide and ran into one problem. The filter element on my 2014 TA105 has a sticky out bit on the engine end - I didn't think about it, just pushed filter into holder and screwed it back onto engine. Started up to 'warning low oil pressure' and very lumpy running. Stopped car after a minute as warning didn't go away. Scratched head for a while trying to think what could be up. Finally removed filter and found filter element had bent where the stick out bit is. It is supposed to locate into a hole in engine side but hadn't. So had to refit old filter element (which wasn't bent) into engine side and then screw on the cover. So 'fit filter element to engine then screw on cover' would be better. Worth mentioning as someone else may be as stupid as me!
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Last edited by Twinkletwinklelittlestar; 28-10-2017 at 13:53.
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Old 19-09-2018   #14
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Re: TwinAir oil and filter change

The idea that reversing the sealing washer for the sump makes any difference is illusionry. It's a crush washer and both faces contribute to forming an oil-tight seal - the face between the sump case machining is equally important as that between the washer and sump plug, so why would turning the washer help - the already damaged face has to seal to the sump casing or it will leak.

Volvo uses the crush washer and so does the Toyota engine in the Citroen C1/Toyota Aygo, although they use aluminum not copper. The crush washer never-the-less should be replaced every time- they are cheap and readilly avaiable. Overtorquing the sump plug can lead to serius problems so I would set the correct torque not rely on feel which is NOT accurate. Have done oil changes for 20 years never once had a leaking sump by following the correct procedure.

I have seen a TA from a large South Coast deler which they claimed had a full service before sale - the oil was not changed and in 12 months of very low miles it was filthy. The young female owner neglected to check the oil level and top up to correct level thus the engine persistantly had 400 to 800 ml too little oil. 'Oil consumption' is a consequence of the engine design and hard use exacerbates it.Low oil level adds to engine wear especially with heavy use of stop-start and heavy turbo use. Fiat service intervals for this engine seem far too optimistic.
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