Morning all.

I have to change the drive shafts on my car. Will I have to reset the backlash in the diff?

Thanks
Steve

Not if you carefully mark the original position of all the components and don’t alter the diff bearing adjusters.

Thank you, good news. The diff is like a 'black box' to me...

As David (Toshi) has mentioned, if you carefully note where the bearing aduster rings and the big tab washers are sitiuated when you remove the drive-shaft rubber boots, you should not need to reset the diff. I would suggest that as soon as you have the drives-shft boots off, you mark where the big tab-washer locates (normally only in 1 place) and where the adjuster ring is with a spot of tippex. I would also suggest that you drain the gearbox before you do any work on the box, and, REMEMBER TO REFILL IT when the box is all back together. If you can find an old stool, turn it uoside down and use it as a gearbox holder for when doing the work. You will find that it is a lot easier to torque the diff bolt and bell housing bolts/nuts if you have a 2nd pair of hands to hold the box steady. There is NO gasket between the bell housing and the gearbox casing, so make sure that the contact surfaces on both the gearbox and the bell-housing are very clean and use a uniform smear of a good gasket goo---blue Hylomar is one such 'goo'. Please do not use red Hylomar!
Whilst you have the bell housing off, I would suggest that you take the opportunity to replace the spigot-shaft seal---it comes in a little housing on the engine side of the back of the bell-housing. The seal can be a real faff to take out, so for the small extra cost, buy the seal+housing unit, which is available from a number of sources.

jolly500 said:

Morning all.

I have to change the drive shafts on my car. Will I have to reset the backlash in the diff?

Thanks
Steve

Click to expand...

Hi Steve, when you get to the point of splitting the crown wheel assembly be very careful to note the position of any spring spacers, your gearbox may not have them but be prepared and note well. Also note the position of the joint blocks sitting on the inner shaft pegs, the grooves must be in contact with the inner face of the channel in the side gears for proper lubrication. If you have a 'Haynes' manual it's all covered in chapter 6.
Ian.

Thanks all for the replies.