Has anyone purchased one of these supposedly authentic Weber carbs off of Ebay? There are several offered for less than $100, so cheap that I am suspect. Good? Bad?

Quite bluntly, cheap CRAP! Look at it closely and you will see how bad the casting is. Also on the side shown, it should have 'WEBER' above 'TIPO' and the cartouche under the word TIPO should have 28IMB very neatly cast into the left side of the cartouche. Don't touch it with a disinfected barge-pole!

If it's too good to be true. . . it probably is.

TheKGB said:

If it's too good to be true. . . it probably is.

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It's probably a Chinese rip-off. As Tom@the Hobbler says don't touch

Ian.

The original Weber 28IMB carbs were made in Italy when the 126 was launched then when production switched to Poland they made official Weber carbs as well. Country of origin is marked clearly on the castings. When 126 production of the 126 stopped some Weber carbs were made in Spain, they have “made under licence” on the body casting and had mixed reviews. The cheap ones you see now are made in China. One UK supplier allegedly stocked them hoping to make a killing as they were so cheap then regretted it when most of them were returned due to being faulty. Apparently the supplier said that you were better off having a good used or reconditioned original carb.

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I got my newly refurbished and ultra-sonicly cleaned Italian 26IMB carby from Toshi for less than the Ebay carbs. (plus shipping to the colonies). I installed it right out of the box and my '71 500F started up right away and ran like a top after a quick Idle adjustment. Couldn't be happier. Thanks Toshi.

ronstox said:

I got my newly refurbished and ultra-sonicly cleaned Italian 26IMB carby from Toshi for less than the Ebay carbs. (plus shipping to the colonies). I installed it right out of the box and my '71 500F started up right away and ran like a top after a quick Idle adjustment. Couldn't be happier. Thanks Toshi.

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Pleased to hear that all went well, always good to hear. I once sold a refurbed carb on eBay and the guy came back to me saying I had sold him a pup and demanding a refund. I asked what the symptoms were so I made various suggestions about what it sounded like and I never heard from him again but he did leave positive feedback after all that. Still have refurbished Weber 26IMB & 28IMB carburettors along with the twin choke Weber 30DIC and I think the Christmas elves are working on a Dellorto FZD

Toshi 975 said:

Pleased to hear that all went well, always good to hear. I once sold a refurbed carb on eBay and the guy came back to me saying I had sold him a pup and demanding a refund. I asked what the symptoms were so I made various suggestions about what it sounded like and I never heard from him again but he did leave positive feedback after all that. Still have refurbished Weber 26IMB & 28IMB carburettors along with the twin choke Weber 30DIC and I think the Christmas elves are working on a Dellorto FZD

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Is it possible to remove the brass inlet port and replace it? Mine either has a scratch or a fine crack in it. On my motorcycle petcocks these are typically just pressed in. Wasn’t sure it it’s the same on the carby.

Veloman518 said:

Is it possible to remove the brass inlet port and replace it? Mine either has a scratch or a fine crack in it. On my motorcycle petcocks these are typically just pressed in. Wasn’t sure it it’s the same on the carby.

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They do just press in, in fact sometimes they fall out and cause a flood of petrol in the engine compartment. I had it happen once. I have never ever seen them for sale as a spare part. You can buy new replacement tops for the 28. I would worry a little about replacing one unless you make sure that it is secure. You could soft solder the one you have or replace the whole top. I may have a spare ferrule that I have rescued from an old carb but not sure.

One way to make sure that the ferrule is going to stay in is the roughen the section that sits in the carb top and then refit it with (for example) "JP Weld", one of the modern 2-part metals.

I’ll second using JB Weld. Mine came loose and was leaking a couple years back. Pulled it out, rough sanded it, and slathered some JB Weld on before reinstall. Made sure it had a good bead on the outside joint as well. Still leak free to this day and looks original.

You could probably thread it for a screw in footing if you wanted to go that route.

JumpJet said:

I’ll second using JB Weld. Mine came loose and was leaking a couple years back. Pulled it out, rough sanded it, and slathered some JB Weld on before reinstall. Made sure it had a good bead on the outside joint as well. Still leak free to this day and looks original.

You could probably thread it for a screw in footing if you wanted to go that route.

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Not as concerned with it pulling out as I am about the crack. Might just flow a bit of solder in there for now.

The answer to the ferrule (or,'hose-tails' as they are often called) problem is solved by that amazing catalogue :--"Car Builder Solutions"---page 350 in the latest catalogue has a selection of these, either the same size both ends or of differing sizes either end. They have the fuel-lins 'barbed' shape to them which could be useful when trying to bond one of these ferrules into the carb top
These catalogues can be obtained (in the UK, I don't know about overseas) FOC just by going into the appropriate section on their website. The catalogue is a gold-mine for all sorts of parts; it was originally designed for the 'kit-car' fraternity, but is brilliant for all sorts of other things (including fitting out a canal-boat!)