Technical Ignition Lights

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Technical Ignition Lights

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Jan 26, 2020
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Removed my clocks and black dashboard to spray the metal dashboard hidden behind. Have reinstated the clocks,switches and dashboard ignition.
My problem is with the ignition on I no longer have oil or ignition light illuminated. The car starts and runs as good as ever.
The clocks were dismantled and all cleaned while off car. Bulbs were all checked before refiting. The turn and lights on lights work. Am a bit confused.
If it's an earthing issue as they normally are where do I look ?
 
What model 500 do you have---on the 'L' model the 'low oil pressure'light is protected by fuse 2, but on the other models it is 'unprotected'. The ignition light is 'unprotected' on all models. Check that all the bulb-holders are fully 'twisted-in' and the contacts are good.
 
What model 500 do you have---on the 'L' model the 'low oil pressure'light is protected by fuse 2, but on the other models it is 'unprotected'. The ignition light is 'unprotected' on all models. Check that all the bulb-holders are fully 'twisted-in' and the contacts are good.

This isn’t actually correct. The generator light (ignition light?), low oil pressure light and fuel reserve or on the round speedo low fuel light are all protected on by fuse 2 on all models.

All 3 lights take a supply of 12v’s from fuse two, they illuminate when they get an earth from the sender or in the case of the generator when there is a potential difference across the bulb.
 
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That is very interesting Tony, because I was quoting from a 'Factory' w/shop manual! However, thank you for correcting me---I will amend my notes (and the w/shop manual).
This isn't the 1st howler that I have come across in the 'Factory' manual. I was putting a new crank into my engine, so I looked up "crank-shaft end-float" specs. The wording says "end play of a new crankshaft measured between flywheel-end bearing and crankshaft shoulder"--which you can't, BUT the picture shows it being correctly done between TIMING-CHAIN end bearing and crank shoulder. It also give end-float as between 0.3mm and 0.44mm (.0118in and .0173in)---methinks that a '0' got left out somewhere.
 
That is very interesting Tony, because I was quoting from a 'Factory' w/shop manual! However, thank you for correcting me---I will amend my notes (and the w/shop manual).
This isn't the 1st howler that I have come across in the 'Factory' manual. I was putting a new crank into my engine, so I looked up "crank-shaft end-float" specs. The wording says "end play of a new crankshaft measured between flywheel-end bearing and crankshaft shoulder"--which you can't, BUT the picture shows it being correctly done between TIMING-CHAIN end bearing and crank shoulder. It also give end-float as between 0.3mm and 0.44mm (.0118in and .0173in)---methinks that a '0' got left out somewhere.

Just looked at the wiring diagram Tom. It is fed from fuse 2 but is unprotected. I think the confusion comes because some wiring diagrams refer to it as fuse 2 and some as 5. It depends which way you count, top to bottom or bottom to top!

Haynes refer to it as fuse 5, as does the bible, otherwise known as 15/54. There are two light blue wires on one side of 15/54 that terminate together on the supply side of the fuse. One comes from the ignition, so when it is turned on the light blue wire supplies 12v’s to the fuse and other light blue wire goes to the speedo where the generator (ignition) light, low fuel light and oil pressure light are joined together each receiving the 12v.
 
What model 500 do you have---on the 'L' model the 'low oil pressure'light is protected by fuse 2, but on the other models it is 'unprotected'. The ignition light is 'unprotected' on all models. Check that all the bulb-holders are fully 'twisted-in' and the contacts are good.

Apologies Tom I stand to correct myself on the L the low fuel warning light and oil pressure light are both protected by fuse 15/54. On the L it takes the 12v from the wiper motor for both which is supplied by 15/54. As you say the ignition light/generator is unprotected on all. So you were correct in what you said. The only decent wiring diagram I can find for a L is in German, so it’s pretty hard to translate as they like to use really long words!

I was looking for a solution for the earlier post about the fuel tank sender when I realised my error.
 
Nice that you've corrected your well-intentioned mistake; some people just bumble on even when rumbled. ;)

The problem is, is most workshop manual wiring diagrams are for the F or earlier. They are very few which show the later L wiring diagram with the rectangular dash. The only one I know of is the one attached which I got off the Axel Gerstl website. As you can see they like very long words!!! Then you have to cross refer it back to a diagram for the F in English to work out what is doing what.:confused:
 

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Tony, if you would like to contact me direct ([email protected]) and let me have your home address I will post you a copy of an 'L' wiring diagram---in ENGLISH! I had to do a fair bit of hunting to find it, but I needed one so that my clever son could wire up the Abarth style instrument cluster I have fitted.
 
Tony, if you would like to contact me direct ([email protected]) and let me have your home address I will post you a copy of an 'L' wiring diagram---in ENGLISH! I had to do a fair bit of hunting to find it, but I needed one so that my clever son could wire up the Abarth style instrument cluster I have fitted.

Thanks for the offer Tom but as I have an F then I personally don’t need it. I only reference it to help people out if they are stuck. I have pretty much worked out how the L dash works now electrically.
 
The problem is, is most workshop manual wiring diagrams are for the F or earlier. They are very few which show the later L wiring diagram with the rectangular dash. The only one I know of is the one attached which I got off the Axel Gerstl website. As you can see they like very long words!!! Then you have to cross refer it back to a diagram for the F in English to work out what is doing what.:confused:

Sensible people only need the one specifically for the Blu Turchese "F" model anyway.;)
 
As you can see they like very long words!!!

In our German "O"-level class, we all loved the word "strassenbahnhaltestelle"...a tram-stop to you and me. They call it a street-train-stopping-place....logical really.:D

"Spanferkel" was a simpler word that we all found funny for some reason.:confused:

"Vati" (pronounced "Faati") is the classic, of course.:D
 
In our German "O"-level class, we all loved the word "strassenbahnhaltestelle"...a tram-stop to you and me. They call it a street-train-stopping-place....logical really.:D

"Spanferkel" was a simpler word that we all found funny for some reason.:confused:

"Vati" (pronounced "Faati") is the classic, of course.:D

Well ‘schmelzsicheerungen zum schutz der elektrishen anlagen’ is fusebox apparently. Yes they do like a full description to avoid any confusion. Seeing I spent a few years there all I can remember are ‘ein grosse beir bitte’! :D
 
Thank you all for the responses and in particular the German lessons ?
I have the generator light coming on after cleaning copper strips on rear of clocks so am assuming I can revive the others in due course.
I have acquired a set of L clocks from a rhd car. I've been canabolising parts from them to improve my lhd clocks.
The picture shows rhd above lhd rear. In the red socket one has 5 terminals one has 6 !!!!
Why ?
 

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Thank you all for the responses and in particular the German lessons ?
I have the generator light coming on after cleaning copper strips on rear of clocks so am assuming I can revive the others in due course.
I have acquired a set of L clocks from a rhd car. I've been canabolising parts from them to improve my lhd clocks.
The picture shows rhd above lhd rear. In the red socket one has 5 terminals one has 6 !!!!
Why ?

If you look at that wiring diagram in German that I posted. You will see the left hand side plug/socket doesn’t have anything connected to it on that terminal. I am guessing but I should imagine that is just the way the manufactured different batches of them, some without the pin some with???
 
Probably just done to put another level of confusion in the equation.

I have the wiring diagram in English from a book that came with the car which was nice.
If people need info and this book would help I could post pictures of relevant pages.
 

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Have you checked your earth to the bulb holder? Maybe the new paint is insulating the holder from the earthing of the holder. If all you have done is paint it I’d be looking at that pretty closely.
 
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