Greetings, Have any of the great and good on here a picture or pictures of their engine test stand. By that I mean one where you can start the engine and run it.
I have been wondering if I could adapt a gearbox bellhousing for the starter motor and bolt an engine onto it?????? I don't want to run it on the floor as knowing my luck the damn thing will decide it's going to go walkabout out of control Anyone got any idea's???
Ian.

Screw a couple of battens to a pallet at roughly the width of the sump.The battens don't need to be very deep, just enough to give location. Then sit the engine on the pallet, you may need to hang the flywheel over the end of the pallet if you are not keeping it attached to it's gearbox, and tie the whole thing down with a couple of ratchet straps.

In fact starting an engine just resting on it's sump - assuming the position of the oil filter etc doesn't preclude it - is not something to be too worried about. I've done it maybe half a dozen times, mostly at scrap yards. I keep an old, really grotty, ground sheet which I fold up 3 or 4 times over and sit the engine on that to stop the sump being damaged. It can sometimes "kick" a bit when it first fires but I've not had one fall over and, once running, they are really pretty well behaved. I would be doing this to get some idea of what condition the engine is in and the problem with doing it this way is that the darned thing makes so much noise running without it's exhaust that it's difficult to hear any "funny" noises. I've never done it with a bare engine, always with the box connected. I would imagine things could get exciting with a bare flywheel either through something wrapping itself round it or if it contacts the ground as the ring gear will give it excellent traction?

Ian;
Look on the u-tube channels at "Classic Abarth 695 engines"---you will have to chase through a bit, but there are quite a few videos of engines running on stands. As to your other question, yes, the normal way is to bolt a bell-housing on so that you can (a) bolt a starter in place and (b) the front mountfor the engine can be to the front of the bell-housing, utilising the holes where the bolts that secure the bell-housing to the gearbox body go through for bolts to hold the front of the bell housing to a cross-member. The videos also different ways to mount the back of the engine (t/c end).
If you can lay your hands on an 'electric-operation' (as against cable-pull) starter you can build your test-bed with a little control panel that can include gauges, starter button, oil-pressure gauge, oil-temperature gauge and tacho.

Bleeding Knuckles said:

Greetings, Have any of the great and good on here a picture or pictures of their engine test stand. By that I mean one where you can start the engine and run it.
I have been wondering if I could adapt a gearbox bellhousing for the starter motor and bolt an engine onto it?????? I don't want to run it on the floor as knowing my luck the damn thing will decide it's going to go walkabout out of control Anyone got any idea's???
Ian.

Click to expand...

It is just a case of control. I always start my engines on the bench or table top. When you start on tickover just say "stay boy" in an authoritive voice. However if you Rev them till they growl they may wag their tailpipe and try and go walkies. Just don't say "CATS"
I did start to build a frame on wheels that would hold the engine at normal installed height. Idea being that I could run the engine on it and also wheel the engine into the engine bay, install then remove the frame.

Greetings, well I set about researching this thread title and have now got square eye's It's amazing how many differing ways there are to mount these engines and run them - from an old tyre on the ground to the most complex looking professional rig. So I looked at my Sealy engine stand and reasoned that with simple mods it would double as a test rig too. Even with only three legs the stand is rated to 350kg so removal of the engine bearers gave me a flat plate to mount my spare 126 bellhousing to, the plate needed modding for the bellhousing to fit using the original M10 bolts. I know the mount is offset, but this is needed to allow room for the starter motor. I am acutely aware that the amount of engine stand off on the stand will be more than using the original parts so I am fitting a vertical upright at the back of the engine utilising the rear engine mount to brace the unit in place. I may fit an extra stand brace too just in case it all decides to go walkabout!!! A battery tray and operating panel will follow with electric fuel pump, coil, starting/charging system and oil pressure indication. I can use my timing light to provide rpm too. So I await lots of raw metal to fabricate everything and test my welding skills again !!!
I'll update as soon as.
Ian.

Greetings, I managed to get the bellhousing fitted using the original studs and Bolts, then transferred the lot back onto the stand. I'll be a lot happier when the support prop has been completed as it all 'wobbles' with the engine being some 10cm further out on the mounting. I have managed to source a battery tray too - all I have to do now is wait for the parts delivery more later.
Ian.

Greetings, the battery tray arrived today so I shall fit it onto one of the lower stand legs - probably below the starter motor position. I have also obtained a control panel that will be fitted above the new prop leg. My neighbour (who rebuilds old suzuki Bikes) gave me an idea the other day regarding fuel delivery to the engine whilst on the test rig. He uses a Sealy Motorcycle Portable fuel tank when he needs to tune the bike carbs, but to do this the main fuel tank has to be removed. It's a simple 1ltr plastic bottle that you hang onto anything with a tap and tube feeding the carb by gravity - brilliant!!!
Much better than faffing around with pumps and large containers of fuel. Metal work due by the end of the week then welding
more later.
Ian.

Greetings, My starter motor arrived on tuesday last so I set to cleaning and checking the insides. It was dirty inside with some soil and sand in every crevice.
The cleaning was straightforward after stripping apart, new brushes were sourced and a lick of paint onto the body finished the job. I rigged up a test to check for function and found that I had put it back together correctly - it ran well. Fitting onto the test rig bellhousing was the same as onto an engine, but I need to effect a stay from the back of the motor onto a forward stud for the bearing retainer. The next job is to weld up the stay and steadying feet . more later.
Ian.

Greetings, I have been diverted away from this job of late so was glad to get some time getting the rear stay fabricated and initially fitted.
One problem with this modification of the engine stand is that it does not stand straight, so a great deal of 'fettling' with an angle grinder was required both before and after the welding of the top plate to get a reasonable fit. The rear stay will be located using two bolts onto a welded plate on the lower leg. This way it can all come apart again to use the stand for engine work.
More later.
Ian.

Greetings, not much time today so I only managed to finish the rear stay lower attachment. In the end I only used one bolt to secure the leg (M10) by tapping a thread into the hole itself, the material is 3-4mm so just enough to hold the bolt firm. I'm afraid my welding is still rather poor, but I ended up with a good joint.
Next I am onto the battery tray and the placement of the control panel and wiring loom. More later.
Ian.

Greetings, The battery was placed into a 500 tray and secured onto the lower leg, although it is held tight I'm wary of the chance that things may fall off when it's all running so it's a temporary fix at the moment.
The initial fitting up of the control panel mount was easy, but I am acutely aware of the need for room for the wiring and the coil, ballast, relay and busbar. it may take some fiddling, but I'm confident that they will fit.............maybe !!! The wiring loom will follow with the negative battery terminal bolted to the stand leg to form an earth return path as in the cars.
More later.
Ian.

Greetings, I gave the finished control panel mount a quick lick of some red paint that has been hanging around, mainly to offset the grim bare metal look. Fitting up to confirm all the positions went as expected, so I set about the wiring loom. I must say that the finished (almost) wiring looks complicated, but I just went through each system in turn ensuring that the supply to each part was complete before moving on to the next item. The earth return continuity is good and the supply to the busbar is protected by a simple 20A inline fuse. The two things I could not complete were the charging cable from Alternator to starter solenoid, as I've had to order some larger gauge eyelets for the cable from the Bay, and the wiring for the charging light as the diagram I have shows a ignition switch and I am unsure where to connect the light cable with my system - more research needed!!!
I have decided to use one switch for the ignition circuit and one switch for the start circuit so that either or both can be isolated. The kill switch is best for ignition. Anyway I removed the plugs, connected everything, switched on and pushed the button..................................Ye Gods it works !!!!
Once I get the remaining wiring done I'll go for a full run (drum roll) So I will have to make a vid of it all (providing it's all ok that is) More later
Ian.

Greetings, The wiring eyelets arrived yesterday so I set to fitting an M6 for the Alternator and an M8 for the starter motor ends. I managed to find the correct location in my loom for the return wire from the charging light so that's it all done. An extra stay for the rear of the starter has been fashioned to prevent any movement when turning over the engine. I was then going to fit the exhaust, but rain stopped play, I'll get it running another day as I'm in no hurry, more later.
Ian.

Greetings, I've managed to finish the rear foot metalwork today, the fit and finish is a tad agricultural, but for the number of times it will be used I'm happy
My welding is still as rough as a badgers arse, but again happy (ish) I have used some threaded feet to add stability using a nut below to adjust and a nut above to lock it all. A simple bolt through the lot will provided location (to be replaced by a pip pin) more later.
Ian.

Greetings All, I've had to revisit this thread due to two problems that have developed over time. My 'Not so hot' engine remains on the engine stand, but I now seem to have TWO problems that have given rise to other individual threads. The engine has a two-piece 'Bambino' fan housing fitted that was difficult to fettle with the Alternator and crankcase, keeping the fan from rubbing only added to the game. The fan has now decided to loosen up on the shaft and contact the housing The problem I have is that the fan is rotating on it's shaft fitting slightly, I'm aware that there was some wear during assembly, but careful shimming removed any movement - at the time!!!
The retaining nut is on very tight so it looks like either a new fan or maybe I'll weld the damn thing to the adaptor and then statically balance it
The Alternator seems to have run out of steam too, giving only 12.3v during running, this low voltage is an indication of a failed diode so I'll change the brushes, regulator and the diode plate rather than get a reconditioned or new part
Thank heavens the engine is on a stand and not in the car, it makes the work so much easier!!!!

Greetings, The diode plate arrived from Germany without any problems - no import tax and the like. So I thought I'd go ahead and fit it before stripping off the fan housing and alternator. There is sufficient room to get at the Elmot diode plate and the brushes and regulator too, so the job can be done in the car - although the soldering of the diode wires might be a tad fiddly. :bang::bang: Once the wires are out of the way removal of the plastic diode cover is simple with only three M7 bolts to remove. The diode plate itself is held onto the alternator body with three small screws that can be got at with the pulley in place. However, prior to removing the plate you must detach the three diode wires with a soldering iron, then the plate can be removed. The old plate looked quite grim and was very dirty. Replacement is simply the reverse of the above, but I'll get to that when I have more time
Ian.

Bleeding Knuckles said:

There is sufficient room to get at the Elmot diode plate and the brushes and regulator too, .

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When I renovated my Elmot I couldn't find the correct diode assembly, so I used a standard Lucas one; an A133 I think. One of the three screws didn't align properly, but apart from that it fitted straight in.

My soldering-iron was stretched a little, but overall, it's an easy and satisfying job.

Greetings, Well I eventually got around to changing the Diode plate, Brush unit and the regulator and ................ No Change - still 12.3v - B****r !!!!!
There must be a winding problem deeper in the Rotor or Stator. So I'm not going to waste my hard earned on any more Mr fixit attempts, It's going to be a professional fix, But, I'll wip off the new bits first and then exchange it
!!!!!!
I've got the fan housing apart too (after 16 bolts ) Mainly to get the Alternator off and investigate the fan contact inside the housing. It's not good news :bang::bang: When I assembled all my dissimilar bits the fan was not rubbing and the engine has only been run a few times on the stand, But, there was a very small amount of play between the fan and the alternator shaft adaptor, after everything was bolted up the play went away (for a little while) The old fan has now rotated on the adaptor peeling the metal back (see pic) The immediate thought was that the fan has seriously contacted the housing and caused the damage, But there is no evidence of any heavy contact - maybe it's happened during those few short runs a little at a time ????? Anyway it's new fan time. I'll get back later.
Ian.

Hi Ian. I am rebuilding an alternator just now and needed to test all of the components before fitting new bearings. Amongst the dross on You Tube I found this video, which very clearly explains how to test everything using a simple multimeter. I followed the instructions and all turned out just as Andy describes. The only component that's not really possible to test is the regulator, but that's cheap to replace in any case.

https://youtu.be/at_R7sENE0s

fiat500 said:

Hi Ian. I am rebuilding an alternator just now and needed to test all of the components before fitting new bearings. Amongst the dross on You Tube I found this video, which very clearly explains how to test everything using a simple multimeter. I followed the instructions and all turned out just as Andy describes. The only component that's not really possible to test is the regulator, but that's cheap to replace in any case.

https://youtu.be/at_R7sENE0s

Click to expand...

Hi Peter, Now You've done it - I'll have to strip and test the damn thing just to prove what's wrong and maybe save some cash into the bargain
The vid is great thanks I'll be using it as a blueprint - now where the hell did I put my multimeter
Ian.