General Screws and nuts...

[Bigvtwin996]

having looked at some of my carbs.. I have noticed that some of the screws and nuts are certainly past their best, being chewed up by over enthusiastic owners...
I want to replace them...
I know many of the carb places sell them but the prices are some what crazy...
Can someone tell me the exact spec and dimensions for them.. e.g. the top screws and the nuts for the choke lever and throttle lever...

Is there anything different to normal Cheese headed screws and 1/2 nuts?

 

[the hobbler]

I don't (off the top of my head) now the specs for the choke and throttle lever nuts, (and the factory parts catalogue only list them as 'nut') but I expect that they will be a fairly standard metric thread. 1/2 nuts are basically just shallow (i.e. less depth of thread) nuts, available 'plain'or 'nylok'.
For the carb top retaining screws I tend to use stainless 'button head' cap-head screws---neat, tidy and look good. I get all my stainless nuts, bolts and screws from "Westfield fasteners"---available in small numbers and sensibly priced.

 

[Bigvtwin996]

Yes I like the factory listings of "Nut, bolt, washer"..
I wanted to stay std.. but find 70p for a simple nut or bolt a bit over the top from my local Weber Dealer..
I use GWR Fasteners who supply in small numbers but always ask for everything inc thread pitch.


As a side issue.. the two studs that are to hold the elbow on.. are they thread locked to the body.. as I can't remove one using the two nut technique...


Has anyone found a Nitrophyl float for the IMB carbs?

 

[the hobbler]

The exhaust elbow studs (normally bolts) should not be 'lok-toted' in. BUT I would be tempted to leave it in unless it is absolutely necessary to remove it--if it is that tight there is a fair chance that a goodly chunk of the head will come with it. Personally, I do a trick thatI learnt at Radbourne Racing (and is a pukka Abarth 'mod') and fit "MEMFAST" 'Self-tapping steel inserts into the thread for the elbow stud/bolt---rarely get a problem after that. Look onto the 'Westfield fasteners' web-site--very clearly laid out

 

[Franko500]

I can sell you some genuine screws for your carb.
£85 - cant beat originality

 

[El cargador]

When i started my resto i went to the local DIY store and bought a jiffy bag (3 sizes each with a different price) and filled them up

 

[Toshi 975]

I have tried zinc plating the original parts with only moderate success but I mainly use replacement stainless steel parts as close to the originals as I can get.

 

[Bigvtwin996]

I can sell you some genuine screws for your carb.
£85 - cant beat originality

Will you deliver?
and for that price they must come in an original Fiat bag!

 

[Bigvtwin996]

When i started my resto i went to the local DIY store and bought a jiffy bag (3 sizes each with a different price) and filled them up

Blimey that must have been quite some time ago....
possibly when Tom was starting his apprenticeship?

B&Q just look at me when I ask a question....
Our last Old style shop with wooden draws and an old bloke in a Brown warehouse coat has just closed....

 

[Spike64]

Yes I like the factory listings of "Nut, bolt, washer"..
I wanted to stay std.. but find 70p for a simple nut or bolt a bit over the top from my local Weber Dealer..
I use GWR Fasteners who supply in small numbers but always ask for everything inc thread pitch.


As a side issue.. the two studs that are to hold the elbow on.. are they thread locked to the body.. as I can't remove one using the two nut technique...


Has anyone found a Nitrophyl float for the IMB carbs?

Usually a bit of heat should help soften the lock tight......
The bolts will clean up

 

[Moimo]

I am sure there are many of these places but sterling nuts and bolts Peterborough have a secret weapon, two blokes who are pre decimal, just a nano second of a look from 500 paces and they will not only tell you what you have but reach into a magic pocket and put them on the counter. I am sure they would do the same mail order, when I have a bike at a suitable stage I ride it there and over the course of sometimes a few hours I remove a few, take them in, get replacements and put them in, and I do this until the bike is adorned fully in stainless, but they do variations. Then at the end I pay and ride off thinking this is a business as often on eBay half a dozen bolts can be a few quid and the guys in Sterling only charge a few pence per item.

 

[IanEmery]

I am sure there are many of these places but sterling nuts and bolts Peterborough have a secret weapon, two blokes who are pre decimal, just a nano second of a look from 500 paces and they will not only tell you what you have but reach into a magic pocket and put them on the counter. I am sure they would do the same mail order, when I have a bike at a suitable stage I ride it there and over the course of sometimes a few hours I remove a few, take them in, get replacements and put them in, and I do this until the bike is adorned fully in stainless, but they do variations. Then at the end I pay and ride off thinking this is a business as often on eBay half a dozen bolts can be a few quid and the guys in Sterling only charge a few pence per item.

We’re lucky to have a very similar old fashioned outlet in town here; wonderful how far a £ still goes at Westgate Fastenings

 

[the hobbler]

If you live in the Ipswich area, 'Suffolk Fasteners' are the place to go to for nuts and bolts. When I lived in Felixstowe they were always my 1st port of call and never failed to produce what I was needing.
Peter, I misread your query and thought that you were talking about the EXHAUST elbow studs. Again, the carb-elbow retaining studs should NOT be 'lok-tited' in place. Unless you really have to remove the problem stud I would still suggest that you leave it in place. You CAN get the 'self-tapping' steel inserts for that size of thread (which I think is 6mm x 1mm as it has a 10mm nut), but in that delicate a structure you do risk damaging the carb top-cover by drilling to fit the inserts.