Technical Distributor advance 650cc engine..

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Technical Distributor advance 650cc engine..

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Guys


Just thinking back to the recent rebuild, when I was cleaning down the dizzy it appeared that the weights were pinned in situ?! Is this correct?


I've got a Haynes on it's way for a little cross referencing between the 495-650cc but cannot understand this methodology?




TIA


Rob
 
The weights should move freely because the idea is that the increasing centrifugal force developed as the distributor rotates faster makes the weights pivot outwards. As they are connected between the driven side of the distributor and the plate which carries the ignition points, the arrangement gradually pulls forward the point at which the spark is developed. The connection is limited by the two small springs which resist the outward pull of the weights in a controlled way. The stronger of these reaches its limit at high rpm after which the mechanism can move no further: this point should amount to 28 degrees. Weak, worn, broken, missing or incorrectly calibrated springs can all affect the timing of the engine. Seized weights would also have a serious effect on smooth running.
 
This is the problem, they don't they are pinned in situ!


I though it was strange at the time but time constraints didn't allow me to look into it in much detail...…


Maybe why I'm struggling to set it up correctly....
banghead.gif
 
This is the problem, they don't they are pinned in situ!

I'm fortunate ??? :confused: to have several distributors of both types and some of them which are partly dismantled. A few images with description might help to explain what's going on with the weights.

The first image shows the lower (driven) part of the mechanism on the 594/652 distributor with the drive cog removed and one of the weights separated from the post which it sits on.

The second image shows the two weights in-situ and you can see that the slot in one of the weights aligns with a hole in the driven plate below. This setup is very important in limiting the full advance of the distribitor as will be seen in the next image.

The third image shows the cam and the studs or pegs beneath it which sit in the slots in the weights previously referred to. As the distributor spins, the cam is not directly driven but receives its motion via these pegs being in contact with the slots in the weights. As the longer peg is restricted from full movement by also being inserted in the hole in the drive-plate, once the full 28 degrees advance is achieved it is not possible to pass this position and to enter into self-destruction of the mechanism. You can see the felt plug which should be in the hollow in the top of the spindle where a few drops of oil should be sparingly added when servicing. This is the oil eventually lubricates the pivots within the mechanism.

In the final image you see the cam-plate fitted and the two springs which when fully assembled are also fitted to the tops of the posts on which the weights pivot. When new, these springs must have been very carefully calibrated as they are intended to regulate the rate at which the weights cause the cam-plate to rotate. Without them, full advance would be achieved almost immediately the engine speeded up.

So you can see that not only must the weights be able to pivot freely, they must also be fitted correctly and be appropriate to the distributor in which they are installed.
The springs need to be the correct ones, they need to be undamaged and must be securely fitted over the posts.

The whole setup is probably rarely seen, being largely hidden under the contact breakers. I suspect that there are many faulty distributors running on cars where the resulting lack of or uncontrolled advance will create problems. All of this is in addition to the many other aspects of the drive mechanism of the distributor which can be worn or damaged.

The state of the item I photographed here was almost certainly the reason why the engine it came from finally gave up on the previous owner; one of the pivot-posts had actually broken off.:eek: When that same engine was fitted with a distributor in good condition it ran perfectly.

The 499cc distributor has a very similar internal arrangement and I think that some parts will physically be interchangeable. But such a mongrel piece of kit might show some odd symptoms which would not be easy to diagnose.

For me, the major advantage that I originally saw in the 123 distributor was that you get a superbly engineeered, brand-new mechanism; the electronic advantages can be seen as a bonus. But if you get to grips with these internal details and get everything clean and running like clockwork, it is very hard to differentiate with the way the engine will start and run when compared with the 123.
 

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Ok so stripped the dizzy and the fault is now found. The weights haven’t been pinned at all but it appears that way. Basically the top part of the dizzy shaft that the rotor arm would go on is seized to the main shaft and not allowing that bit of turn and to allow the weights to move out under rotation......

I’ll give it a full strip and clean, see what happens then
.
 
Yes it’s beyond repair!!

It’s apart but it never would have come apart easily, looking at the main shaft it looks like both parts have ‘picked up’ together which is quite bizarre considering the minimal spin on each part.....the top bit is mullered ?, main shaft would be ok with a polish...........and to top it all off I’ve just dropped a weight and broken one of those for God’s sake

Anyone got any bits for sale?
 
It would be the shaft part to the right with the square’ish base and the weights underneath it please.....can you let me know how much posted to WF5 please......

OK will set those aside. It is hard to tell without pictures if your distributor is a dogs dinner of parts or just rusted solid on the centrifugal advance. The cam top piece is held to the spindle with a spring and a screw then a felt piece goes on top & under the rotor arm. The felt should be lubricated from time to time to keep the advance oiled. These are some of the other used bits I have just in case anything else is missing or damaged.
 

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OK will set those aside. It is hard to tell without pictures if your distributor is a dogs dinner of parts or just rusted solid on the centrifugal advance. The cam top piece is held to the spindle with a spring and a screw then a felt piece goes on top & under the rotor arm. The felt should be lubricated from time to time to keep the advance oiled. These are some of the other used bits I have just in case anything else is missing or damaged.


Hi mate, hope you are well....


The Distributor is in really good clean condition despite the seized 2 parts and whilst stripping it has all the correct shims etc and the small spring and screw. Based on the fact that this dizzy was part of an engine that had been sat for a considerable time I can understand the seizure and not the fact that it's a dogs dinner to which I totally understand your rationale....


The main shaft and body has virtually no wear and other than the advance it all works perfectly...….


You have touched on something though, the felt piece.....I am going to assume it will need anew one and have not seen or removed it so I am assuming it was missing which will of course contributed to the seizing of the two pieces...….So if you have one of those also happy days.....


Now the springs are intact and in good condition, now as much as I do not like changing parts just for the fun of it do I keep them or exchange them for a set of new ones? how good are the new ones compared to the old?....Naturally if these springs are not working correctly that will upset the full calibration of the advance in its entirety!.....
 
Chances are your springs are fine and you can't test them without having the cam section. With the spindle components assembled the springs should hold the cam in place. If there is any play on the springs, say 3 or 4 degrees, then the ignition will immediatly advance by that amount as soon as the engine starts and before it is even revved thus immediatly throwing out your static timing and restricting any further advance to 6 or 7 degrees. I keep an old felt hat in the garage. I will cut you a bit off that. Thinner than the original felt "block" but you can cut it & fold it to fit.
 
Ok that's great but don't ruin your hat just for me :D………..
Worst case scenario on the springs is that I do have a new set here on another dizzy on the 495cc.
Let me know a cost and I'll whiz some money over...
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Ok that's great but don't ruin your hat just for me :D………..
Worst case scenario on the springs is that I do have a new set here on another dizzy on the 495cc.
Let me know a cost and I'll whiz some money over...
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Just send a blank cheque :eek:
 

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