General Doors buckling when closing

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General Doors buckling when closing

If the door shuts correctly (i.e. lines up with panels fore and aft) with seal removed, then door hinges and lock striker plate are adjusted correctly - problem is probably with the thickness of door seal being used.

Sometimes, the flange onto which the seal fits can be carefully 'adjusted' using a block of timber and hammer. Sometimes this is enough. (don't overdo it!).

New seals tend to settle down (i.e. collapse slightly) so may make the door hard to close initially but settle after a while.

There are different size seals available, especially with respect to the dimension of 'C' in gordinir8's post #17 above, as mentioned by Antgiu.

One source of door seals in different sizes is www.carbuildersolutions.co/uk/car-boot-and-door-seals
e.g. TRMDS - 9mm foam bead, TRMDES - 10mm hollow bead,
or you even even try TRMDRL - flexible sponge leaf seal.

www.woolies-trim.co.uk seem to stock only one size of car door seal similar to the dimensions of what 1500500 shows.

Another possible source for alternative size seals is a Car Retrimmer/Vehicle Body Builder if you happen to have one near to you (might help some avoid carriage costs/delay).

AL.
 
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Hello

I am in the same boat but with the to-ing and fro-ing with the measurements am now confused!

what is the definitive position re thinner seals and suppliers, please that any recent purchaser have found to work?

thanks in advance

RDS
 
My doors were tough to close as well. So ordered the thinner type from Axel Geste (spelling?) Arrived today, lot smaller than what was fitted.

R
 

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hello R

thanks for that; please can you confirm the part number.

cheers

RDS
 
cheers Rob

I had better get myself in gear and make a comprehensive order from Axl/Axel/Axle

RDS
 
OK, so post fiting, the doors are much easier to close. But looking around the door frame, its clear that there are some gaps. Some of which are big that a little adjustment won’t make the required difference. So, chatting to others and to avoid gale force wind blowing in along with any inclement weather, I think the only option is to use both types of seals. May not look too good but will do the job.

Unless, any other suggestions?

Rob
 
OK, so post fiting, the doors are much easier to close. But looking around the door frame, its clear that there are some gaps. Some of which are big that a little adjustment won’t make the required difference. So, chatting to others and to avoid gale force wind blowing in along with any inclement weather, I think the only option is to use both types of seals. May not look too good but will do the job.

Unless, any other suggestions?

Rob
...not such a daft idea. As usual I'm repeating myself, but my original seals are in two parts; the section at the sill which has the aluminium treadplate is a closed-cell foam extrusion
 
Just as a suggestion. I have used a couple of options for adjusting those gaps.
1. tweak the flange that the seal sits on with a pair of pliers. You can either relieve pressure or close the gap up.
2. cut a piece of plastic 10mm wide x as long as you need and about 1mm thick. Then you can fix it to the outside face of the flange (door side) with some electrical tape. Then when you put the seal over it the gap will close in that area. You can get away with about 2mm insert before it starts really distorting the seal.
3. Leave the seal in boiling water for a while before fitting. Then whilst still hot fit the seal and close the door. If the door is closed as tight as possible (preferably over tightened) and left for a few days the seal is more than likely to adjust to its new shape.
 
Also take into account that if you have a gap at the top, using larger seals has probably distorted the actual door as well... you could carefully bend the top of the door slightly to compensate....

I have seen the opposite where the top of a door is actually bent inwards because of people resting their hand on the door tops getting in and out of cars...
 
So just installed that reduced size seal from Axel Gerstl. There is a small improvement on both doors, a very small gap on R/H door at the top which i believe that i will adjust but a huge one on L/H door (was also before with the thicker seal) Drivers door is now within acceptable limits but co drivers still need some work. I think that it will become better as soon as seal take its shape by the time. I noticed that the old seal had a relief hole every few inches so air can escape and help in closing though the new thinner seal has not any holes. In any case i recommend it to those that have similar problems.
Thomas
 
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