Technical Changing front and rear springs - lowering

Currently reading:
Technical Changing front and rear springs - lowering

1500500

Established member
Joined
May 24, 2015
Messages
667
Points
242
Location
Canberra
I posted this video in my main 500 rejuvenation thread, but to make it easier to find for future reference here is timelapse of changing over the front and rear springs.

With shock absorbers undone and working one side at a time it is not too difficult.

I fitted the camber adjustment brackets at the front without the original round spacers but had to move the brake line a little bit.

[ame]https://youtu.be/vQ1XCOQiHNw[/ame]
 
Last edited:
I posted this video in my main 500 rejuvenation thread, but to make it easier to find for future reference here is timelapse of changing over the front and rear springs.

With shock absorbers undone and working one side at a time it is not too difficult.

I fitted the camber adjustment brackets at the front without the original round spacers but had to move the brake line a little bit.

https://youtu.be/vQ1XCOQiHNw

Good video but couldn't quite see how you refitted, do you do clamps first then outer bolts?
 
How is your car behaving now that it is lower in respect of suspension travel? If you put two or four persons inside (i am putting my kids at the back) are the wheels touching the wheel wells? When my car is full front suspension is getting real low (toe out) and when in full steering tire contacts wheel well!!. I want to ask if those reverse-eye lowering kits are stiffer than my probably tired suspension so i will not have the same or even worse problem with tire touching wheel well and suspension will maintain some travel before reaches the rubber stop. Also are those camber adjustment brackets necessary?

Thomas
 
How is your car behaving now that it is lower in respect of suspension travel? If you put two or four persons inside (i am putting my kids at the back) are the wheels touching the wheel wells? When my car is full front suspension is getting real low (toe out) and when in full steering tire contacts wheel well!!. I want to ask if those reverse-eye lowering kits are stiffer than my probably tired suspension so i will not have the same or even worse problem with tire touching wheel well and suspension will maintain some travel before reaches the rubber stop. Also are those camber adjustment brackets necessary?

Thomas

I have not noticed any trouble with tyres rubbing. I have only driven a short distance with four people in the car so was not a very long test.

I fitted the Camber adjusting brackets as part of the lowering so am not sure how it would be without them.

Maybe ask Ricambio spares in UK as they stock them and the reverse eye springs so could explain how they work and if the spring is stiffer.

Cheers

Geoff
 
I have a 'reverse-eye' spring on my 500 but no 'camber brackets'. I think that the idea of the the camber-brackets is that by raising the inboard height of the top wish-bone, you effectively shorten it, thereby changing the camber from positive to negative (ish). Because we had to fit 126 inner wings when the front of my car was rebuilt. I modified my top wishbones by moving the outer-top pivot bolt holes in by about 1/4 inch (re-drilled the hole and then had strengthening washers welded onto the wishbone). I have set the camber at ZERO, and the toe-in at 1/4mm IN. The (very) important thing is to get the track-rods exactly the same length--this is fiddly and tedious, but if you don't do it, the Ackerman effect is all to pot.
 
I have not noticed any trouble with tyres rubbing. I have only driven a short distance with four people in the car so was not a very long test.

I fitted the Camber adjusting brackets as part of the lowering so am not sure how it would be without them.

Maybe ask Ricambio spares in UK as they stock them and the reverse eye springs so could explain how they work and if the spring is stiffer.

Cheers

Geoff

Thank you ill make the question.(y)
 
O i asked at ricambio.co.uk and the reply i got is that ''All the lowered leaf springs will make it extremely hard at the front, the 6(leaf) is more for track use and the 5 leaf will be for road use but they have virtually no movement.:confused: The truth is that i would like to keep my cars suspension and not make something stiff as ago Kart.
 
Hi Thomas---tomorrow morning I will go out to the workshop and count the spring leafs on my car. I am pretty sure it is a '5 leaf' but I will double-check. Yes, the lowering springs DO make the front of the car stiffer, but not to an uncomfortable degree (well, not to my thinking). If you do lower the car, you may have to think about tyre fitment in order that you don't get the tyres catching the wheel arches. I have 165/65/13 inch wheels/tyres on my car and the tyres do just touch the inner wheel-arch on full lock, particularly if there is 2 of us in the car. I no longer have a 'young family' they have both grown up and fled the nest, so the car is only for my (and occasionally my wife) pleasure. I deliberately set out to build a '695' replica, but the need to transport a young family will of course change ones priorities.
 
Back
Top