When the car is sitting and idling, say at a stop light, there's an annoying rattle in the gear shift lever.

I've deduced that the vibration coming from the engine via transmission and linkage is causing the gear shift lever to vibrate against the upper domed washer down inside the gearshift lever housing.

From the red arrows, the gear shift lever goes down thru the domed washer with the latter sitting on top of the rounded dome permanently affixed to the housing. The butt of the left-hand red arrow shows where the lever rubs against the washer.

My attempts to resolve the rattle has been to pack the parts with grease and a couple other lame attempts. I'm thinking that a hard plastic sleeve (e.g., delron) would work to stop the metal on metal rattle. This would require I have someone fabricate such a sleeve to match the lever and washer diameters.

Any other thoughts as to what could work? The material has to be hard wearing since the gear shift lever slides up and down against the washer when the car is put into/taken out of reverse.

It's surprising how loud this rattle is (!)

Blimey Bob, I hadn't realised how technical was the cause of that problem. Mine mainly rattles in 4th gear at top speed. I originally thought it was just the four screws that hold down the gearstick gaiter; but tightening them didn't solve it. I know what you mean as this is the only annoying noise I get on my car....honestly.

Have you had a look at the rubber coupling that connects the gear linkage to the gearbox. Its job is to take out any vibrations and it sounds like yours may be perished

Hi Damian,

Good thought that it could be the rubber coupling. I replaced that last year and just checked it yesterday and it still looks brand new.

I guess I could also up the idle speed to get less vibration coming thru but the current idle speed seems perfect versus having it on a fast idle all the time.

Also thinking that I could weld some material to the end of the shaft and then spin it in a lathe so there's less play between the shaft and the washer. But, I'm hoping someone can offer a simpler solution to the ones I've come up with.

I have a 500 and a 126. I discovered early on that the vibration could be a problem on the 500 and that the gear linkage was modified on the 126 with an anti-vibration spring as can be seen in the picture of a mucky one I pulled out of my shed.

In my case I think it more likely to be the spring, I will investigate.

Thanks for the input guys,

The 126 gear linkage looks like Fiat's attempt at solving the problem. I see where a couple of traders are selling this but it is a bit dear. I think I'll head to the local machine shop and see if they can see an easy solution.

This has bugged me as I did not recognise the first picture you posted. So had to dig out a couple of books. It was the short gearshift control rod with the cast end that threw me as I had not seen one like that, only ones with a solid full length rod. So Haynes shows this

Which is similar to yours but shows no Spring although the facility seemed to be there and the caption refers to "the gear linkage showing the rubber noise insulating bushes" Then the Autobook manual , ex Rotorua library book by the way, shows this

So if the diagrams are correct along with my experience there are a number of variations. I fitted the 126 one to my 500L which is a straight swop. If I had more room in my suitcase I could bring one down at the end of this month as we are popping back to NZ for an extended Christmas break so toys for the grandchildren take preference.

Thanks for providing the diagrams, Toshi. Conversely, I hadn't seen longer control rod prior to looking at options.

I haven't been to the machinists yet, but may also look at finding a 126 setup.

Hope you have fun travels to see the grandkids!

helpful thread. I have the same rattle. sorry to ask simple question. how to I expose or get to the mechanism is the pictures above. do I remove plastic console the rubber shifter boot. ?

Before you strip anything down, check the 'stepped' bolts that connect the gear-linkage 'lollipop'. The 'step' on these should be such that with a thin 'wobbly' spring washer between the lollipop and the rod from the gear lever/rod into the gear-box you should be able to tighten the 10mm nylok nut up tight, and NOT lock the lollipop. If these nuts come loose, the result is----a rattly gear lever. BEWARE--some of the pattern bolts for this application have been incorrectly made, and the bolts lock-up the lollipop when the nut is tightened.

the hobbler said:

Before you strip anything down, check the 'stepped' bolts that connect the gear-linkage 'lollipop'. The 'step' on these should be such that with a thin 'wobbly' spring washer between the lollipop and the rod from the gear lever/rod into the gear-box you should be able to tighten the 10mm nylok nut up tight, and NOT lock the lollipop. If these nuts come loose, the result is----a rattly gear lever. BEWARE--some of the pattern bolts for this application have been incorrectly made, and the bolts lock-up the lollipop when the nut is tightened.

Click to expand...

That was exactly my problem and solve it with a couple of rounds of very elastic tape around the two ends of lollipop holding screws togeather.

the hobbler said:

--some of the pattern bolts for this application have been incorrectly made, and the bolts lock-up the lollipop when the nut is tightened.

Click to expand...

gordinir8 said:

That was exactly my problem and solve it with a couple of rounds of very elastic tape around the two ends of lollipop holding screws togeather.

Click to expand...

In my experience it's not necessarily always the the bolts at fault, nor is it confined to pattern parts; I've had this problem with original parts too.

It only needs the steel bar of the rubber connector to be manufactured a tiny amount too thick (or maybe narrow?) and it will cause a problem.

My solution to the problem of the connector binding too tightly on the pivot-bolt was to fit a shim-washer to effectively lengthen the stepped part of the bolt; thus giving a tiny amount more clearance under the head of the bolt where the wavy washer fits. Searching my spares stash I found that one of the original copper washers which fits under the 6mm carburettor fixing nut was ideal once the hole had been drilled out a touch wider.

The front connection went well and snuggled up tight with no play.
The rear despite trying several different step up bushings and one wavy washer still has a very small amount of play after tightening (Which I attribute to the hole in the lollipop being tiny bit sloppy or too big )&
I assembled In this order : the step down boltWith the bushing on the bolt through the lollipop , then placed wavy washer then shift rod. Then nut. Does that sound correct.

Yes, the wavy washer goes between the the lollipop and the gear-change rods.The theory being that doing it that way allows you have the nut tight on the bolt, and the little bit of free-play between the lollipop and the gear-change rod is absorbed by the wavy washer.

What type of gear lever knob are you using?

Iirc, the original type had a rubber insert which tends to dampen out vibrations
and might also prevent any rattling.

Al.

Toshi 975 said:

This has bugged me as I did not recognise the first picture you posted. So had to dig out a couple of books. It was the short gearshift control rod with the cast end that threw me as I had not seen one like that, only ones with a solid full length rod.

Click to expand...

Dave, Toshi 975 I have never had to disturb this mechanism but now seems a good time to tackle this annoying rattle as I have had the little spring in stock for ages.

It looks like the front removable part of the tunnel with the heater ducts will need to come out in order to remove the gearchange mechanism...please tell me there's a short-cut.

From what I remember it was a case of removing the long plastic tray on the tunnel, the bolts holding the gear lever box then the lolly pop connection then lifting the lever forward and up.

Toshi 975 said:

From what I remember it was a case of removing the long plastic tray on the tunnel, the bolts holding the gear lever box then the lolly pop connection then lifting the lever forward and up.

Click to expand...

thanks Dave, I'll give it a try.

fiat500 said:

thanks Dave, I'll give it a try.

Click to expand...

I've had a look at it and read up in my Autobook of the 500 and it says the front tunnel piece has to come out. My mechanism doesn't have the holes for the spring or even the casting lug where it should fit; I would have to weld a tab onto it so I'm nor sure it's worth the trouble.