A compression test won't give you a Yes/No answer to the question of a rebuild. It is only one (and in my opinion not a very good) indicator.

If the engine is running well, isn't a pig to start, doesn't blow smoke, and has good oil pressure and power then leave it alone.

Oil pressure at idle when the engine is hot will tell you if the bottom end (crank, con rod, cam bearings etc) needs attention.

A leak down test is a much better test of the top end than a compression test is. You need a leak down tester and a source of compressed air for this, but it will tell you what component (rings, valves etc) is leaking.

Once you have all the data in front of you, you can make the call on overhaul or repair.

Unless you want to do it anyway of course, haha.

Chris

The amount of metal worried me, but the engine runs great, starts on the first couple of revolutions, doesn't miss a beat and only smokes after running at 90 kmh for extended periods of time, but that might have been due to the wrong weight of oil splashing up to the manifold. I just wanted to do a compression test to feel out things. Next step, transmission flush. Based upon what I found today in the engine, lord knows the last time the tranny was serviced

There's quite a range lf oils recommended by various pundits. The Penrite range referred to earlier gives a good explanation of whch one to choose and why.
Just as important, in my opinion, is to change that oil at least as frequently as advised on the maintenace schedules. If I can find a cheap source of 20/50 from a known manufacturer, that's what I will be using here in the north of the UK.
I had some pretty scrappy 500s of about 35,000 miles back in the 80s which had definitely been neglected and treated like the old bangers they were. I found that level of hard dry gunge in the filter, perhaps without fragments of metal.
It's worth running that engine once cleaned up and hoping the bits are not from anything serious.

fiat500 said:

There's quite a range lf oils recommended by various pundits. The Penrite range referred to earlier gives a good explanation of whch one to choose and why.
Just as important, in my opinion, is to change that oil at least as frequently as advised on the maintenace schedules. If I can find a cheap source of 20/50 from a known manufacturer, that's what I will be using here in the north of the UK.
I had some pretty scrappy 500s of about 35,000 miles back in the 80s which had definitely been neglected and treated like the old bangers they were. I found that level of hard dry gunge in the filter, perhaps without fragments of metal.
It's worth running that engine once cleaned up and hoping the bits are not from anything serious.

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Peter, Halfords actually do a 20/50 Classic Oil at £19.99 for 5ltr and is recommended by lots of classic car owners? It is made for them by Comma who obviously do their own version that is available on line but it appears to be more expensive when you add on the p&p.

The Halfords oil has really good reviews on their site. I think every review gives it 5*. I will definitely be buying some for my next oil change.

Oh and it comes in a nice retro tin.

Tony

Getting some! That is a bargain these days. Postage is always a killer on oil. Thanks Tony

No problems! I love this review of it

This oil is truly FANTASTIC,so SENSUAL,so RETRO, i love it. the smell and aroma that this oil gives off is just simply sexy, it reminds me so much of the past, you know the good old days, when music was MUSIC and cars were CARS and girls were GIRLS. it reminds me of my grandads garage and all his tools and of course is good old JAGUAR. Its the only product i know that can send you back in time and remember that special place in your heart.
Of course its a great oil all GREEN and THICK being a 20w50 it really is up to the job of doing what it does best, lubricating your old motor it honestly is the best oil in the world !
A REAL CLASSIC in every sense of the word, truly scrumptious.
The only thing is, i wish i owned a car so i could put it in its engine, ah well you can't have everything.

You have to wonder what on earth someone was doing with a "sexy" oil if they don't have the car to use it in.

Way back when I used to run a 500 daily I used to run Morris' SAE30 and change it every 1500 miles - that car was thrashed mercilessly and the oil viscosity was in tatters in no time.
Morris' still do a plain SAE30 and that will be going in my resto project with 1500 mile change intervals (yes, I plan on thrashing that too !)

Interesting Mr. Dragon. Currently I have a straight 40 in mine as that's what I had gallons of for an older car I own. The engine runs really sweetly, no leaks, no fumes no problems so far.
Mind you, I have recently rebuilt it with great care.

Bambino said:

Is it possible to fit a proper full flow oil filter to these engines and if so, where do I get all of the bits required? I don't need a cooler.
Chris
PS: I'll answer my own question - yes it is and Nanni Ricambi in Bologna stock the bits but never answer email enquiries ... frustrating
So I guess to rephrase, where else can I get the parts or who will sponsor me to fly to Bologna?

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I have actually managed to get a reply and purchase some parts from Nanni- took me several years...and some creativity. Despite the appearance of their online shop the basic problem is they are not prepared to sell exempt from VAT out of the EU. I finally managed to get a friend in Italy at the time to purchase on my behalf and send them to me but it is much more expensive than other suppliers as you will pay full taxes.
If you can find a friendly forwarder with an EU address in my experience their service was pretty quick. The decompression plate I purchased was near-useless due to the excessive 'o' ring width although the quality of their 5 speed conversion kit is excellent, mine has survived 10 years of abuse and is still performing well...
Alternatively you could try Torsten at Il Motore in Hamburg- he does sell parts separately for the cooler kit so you could possibly make up just a filter setup if you feel the need http://www.ilmotore.de/shop/index.php/cat/c3_oil-cooler.html/XTCsid/fjbu5eop8vh1s6il0b4tn1rdl4
Although the sludge looks alarming I can't see any real reason why the Centrifugal filter is a problem if good oil is used and changed at least annually- my Niki motor has now over 150,000km on it on the original crank and and bearings with no evidence of bottom end issues or low oil pressure.
I have a friend who travelled 300,000 Miles in his Fiat 126 650 on the original crankshaft although the bearings were replaced (standard size) as a precaution when the crankcase cracked at about 200,000mls.
In the early '90s I also purchased the a 'fleet' of 3 126's that had been used as courier vehicles for a local security company in NZ over a 10 year period and according to the maintenance records they had never had bottom end rebuilds in over 350,000km - multiple gearbox rebuilds however!
Generally significant 500/126 bottom end wear is due to low oil pressure caused by the centre plugs in the crankshaft coming loose followed by continued use - if the engine is healthy and well maintained with the nominal miles that most 500's do now they should last indefinitely- it takes a lot of neglect to kill them!

Thanks Damon.

So far the centripetal slinger is OK and I always change the oil in my car methodically and regularly. In the end, I guess I was just having a whinge about Nanni.

Chris

The only engine where 'straight non-detergent' oils should be used is when there is no oil filter to extract the 'muck' out of the oil. A 'detergent 'oil holds the 'muck' in suspension, which is then taken out from the oil as it goes through the filter. A 'non-detergent' oil has not got this capability and the sump therefore slowly collects the 'muck', which has to be cleaned out when the oil is changed (as in the Kelvin marine engine in my canal-boat). If a 'detergent' oil is used in an engine with no oil filter, the bearings will most probably be damaged by the re-circulating 'muck'. In a car air-cooled engine, where the lubricating oil is used as part of the cooling medium a multi-grade oil should be used. For general running about with a standard 500/126 engine a good quality 20/50 oil will suffice (Castrol Classic 20/50 is a good choice--the Halford and Comma Classic 20/50s are other options). However, a tuned engine will run hotter and the advice (as per my comment in the previous 'Engine Question' thread) from Tony Castle-Miller, of Middle Barton Garage, is to use a 10/60 oil. If an engine is tuned, or going to be thrashed, I would also recommend the fitment of an Alloy sump---the 3.5 litre will suffice for 95% of the 'road-use-only' cars.