General My next project

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General My next project

Its a dull grey day here in what is usually a sunny day in Herne Bay, Kent.
Well its only dull & grey in terms of the D is back from the blasters and looking wonderful now all the rust has gone and its all covered in a weld through primer.:D

I have loaded plenty of photos for all you 500 restoration lovers. Now its clean and grey you can really start to see some of the differences in the structural differences between the D & the later models.
Unfortunately they also show how bad the rust had taken hold of the bottom end of the car.
I'm surprised this thing stayed together even before I started cutting panels off. You can even see how peppered some of the panels are. These weren't too bad before being blasted. It just goes to show that rust can look quite solid, but its actually disguising just how weak the panels are.
But lets not dwell on the rusty bits. They are the fun bits in terms of rebuilding them and then fitting the new panels and rebuilding the shell to its former glory.:slayer:
The inner osr 1/4 panel now shows all the areas that have been affected by the impact damage and this will make it far easier to see what needs straightening.
All the other parts have come back looking really good. The rear swinging arms look like new.
And the best part, all this cost me £350 (y)

Im off to Egypt for 2 weeks this Friday, so no more 500 fun for a while.
 

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at £350.... it really would be worth bringing shells and stuff down to your blasters....
that would cost at least £1k up here without all the extra bits..
 
You'll need a big tub of filler to fill back all of those holes in! ;) ;) ;) ;)

Seriously though, it looks like it has come back better than expected, no? It's hard to tell from the pics, but the roof sections look a lot better than your L, IIRC which is good, as I'm seem to recall this was a right pain in the arse getting all of the angles correct.

How do you find the etch primer your blaster uses? The one I'm using on the range rover classic is so porous, I get surface rust back if left for a few weeks. Not a major issue in small sections of welding, but I suspect it would be a pain in the arse on a whole body.

Have fun on holiday.

Cheers, Steve
 
I think Sean's speed of working will be faster than the metal can rust in his hot suvvern climate. ;). Seriously though, that's a perfect starting point and I expect that a significant area of the external panelling will be replaced anyway. I use a lot of epoxy to keep rust away, but it's a PITA to have to keep mixing the components
 
You'll need a big tub of filler to fill back all of those holes in! ;) ;) ;) ;)

Seriously though, it looks like it has come back better than expected, no? It's hard to tell from the pics, but the roof sections look a lot better than your L, IIRC which is good, as I'm seem to recall this was a right pain in the arse getting all of the angles correct.

How do you find the etch primer your blaster uses? The one I'm using on the range rover classic is so porous, I get surface rust back if left for a few weeks. Not a major issue in small sections of welding, but I suspect it would be a pain in the arse on a whole body.

Have fun on holiday.

Cheers, Steve
The primer is a weld through primer.
As you can imagine its not going to get exposed to any water, but yes primer is porous and under poor conditions it will find its way through primer over a long time.
I cant remember how long my L was in primer, but when I sanded it back to bare metal on the outer panels I didn't experience any corrosion.
Time will tell as this may take a little longer to complete.

Yes the roof sections are in better condition. Not a bit of rust around the front screen which is amazing. Just the usual areas on the roof where the sunroof corners wear the paint away and then hold the moisture in. Shouldn't be too difficult to sort out.(y)
 
Hi
does anyone have a spare one of these for a D model.


I believe it is smaller than the F-R one as it has the smaller diameter flexi joints.
The outer bearing housing has been rather battered in the past and the bearing seat is not a good fit.
I might be able to clean it up and maybe use some locktite to hold it still.


There are 2 bearings listed and I think mine are the early ones.
Outer bearing 52mm diameter x 12.5mm


the housing is 59mm outside diameter on the inner section x 78mm
and 61mm diameter x 29mm on the outer part that sits in the drum.


The websites only list the later hub.
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I dug out the sandblaster last weekend.
Cleaned up a few parts and gave them a coat of etch primer in preparation for some painting.
At this rate I should have all the mechanical parts all completed before I start the bodyshell.
Its been a bit warm in the garage, not exactly the weather for goggles, mask, gloves and overalls for all that grinding and welding lark.
So the bodyshell can wait to nearer the winter.
 

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