Technical Project Paolo

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Technical Project Paolo

Finally got everything stripped from the back end now. Had a couple of issues with very tight bolts but an impact driver soon took care of them. Have attached some photos of the very dirty parts as I keep getting moaned at if I don't add photos. Everything will be cleaned up eventually and a clean coat of paint added. The brake shoes and cylinders look like they where replaced not too long ago and the shoes haven't been catching on the drums so that's a bonus.
I'll be replacing the bushes on the swing arms as they look like 48 year old ones but before I press out the old ones do you have to measure how much they protrude each side so you can press the new ones in to the same measurement?

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Damian
 
Moved onto the front suspension now and have hit a snag trying to remove the leaf spring. Read the Haynes manual for a change and they say to put a jack under the leaf spring at the outer bolt to take the weight. Remove the outer bolt connecting the spring to the kingpin and then do the other side the same. I have done all that and all went well until I tried to remove the two blocks holding the spring to the body. As I remove the last nut on the block the spring is still trying to twist and undo its load meaning that should I remove the nut the spring is suddenly going to go and probably strip the last couple of threads in doing so.
Am I being too over cautious or is there a knack to removing it that isn't explained in the Haynes manual?
I've bolted it all back for now until I get some advice from here or am feeling braver.
Damian
 
Can you put a hydraulic jack in the centre of the spring to take the load whilst you undo the nuts?

Tony
 
Damian, do you have the spring eyes clear of the stub axle assemblies and looking seriously "u" shaped? If so I would say most of the spring tension has dissipated and there shouldn't be a problem.
To be certain, presuming the above to be the case and the body is securely supported, you need a wide and stout piece of timber such as a fence post which is sufficiently long that it can sit under both spring eyes at the same time. By jacking under this so that you are barely lifting the car, you should take the tension off.
You can buy or hire a special tool. When replacing, it's much more of a struggle.
 
you can always try using a piece of strong rope. Feed the rope through one eye of the spring, then pass both ends through the inner wing/shock absorber mount hole. Tie the ends together and place a piece of metal through the loop to stop it going back through the hole. Then use a bar or a piece of wood and place between the 2 lengths of rope and turn it to tighten the rope, this should pull the spring up and take the tension off the spring while you undo the nuts safely without stripping the threads. Then loosen the rope by turning them back. Once one side is off the other is easy. You can also use this method to put the spring back on.
 
Anybody got a dirtier steering box and linkage?
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Yours looks like its leaking oil as well Sean? The leaf spring is now off. I kept one end connected to king pin and one end supported on jack. Took off one block and released the jack. Once first end was off other side was easy. Not looking forward to refitting it!
 
I haven't looked into it yet, it was rather messy. It's usually the small seal around the shaft that leaks. It will get a complete overhaul before it goes back. I'm not looking forward to fitting that spring back on either.
 
Well thats it, everything is now stripped just leaving the bare shell. Next stop, the shot blasters
 
Had a good think about the refitting of front springs. Have a piece of fairly heavy duty 'T' section as the cross member (may have to slim down a bit at the ends in order to go under the spring ends and not foul the suspension up-rights)--weld 2 cross member pieces onto the 'T' section, to be just inside where the spring mounts onto the body, with a hole drilled at each end of the cross pieces. Make up (or have made up) 2 long (ok, very long) 'U' bolts with long threaded sections. These 'U' bolts go over the spring and through the holes in the cross pieces---with washers and nuts do up the 'u' bolts so that the spring is flattened---fit spring, undo and remove 'U' bolts. This will be a lot safer than using straps.
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I have a question and it has always intrigued me. In Damian's first picture on this page that shows the rear swinging arms there are two little tabs with a hole through them that look like they should have a spring in them. They are in the centre of his picture, slightly below the horizontal.

I have them on my car as well but there is nothing connected to them. Does anyone know what they are for?
 
I have a question and it has always intrigued me. In Damian's first picture on this page that shows the rear swinging arms there are two little tabs with a hole through them that look like they should have a spring in them. They are in the centre of his picture, slightly below the horizontal.

I have them on my car as well but there is nothing connected to them. Does anyone know what they are for?

Hi

See the attached note, these small springs are available from most suppliers, Ihave the drawing on ere with the Axel Gerstl price

Hope this helps

Cheers
Hugh Jarce
 

Attachments

  • Back plate spring.pdf
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Huge, the anti-rattle springs connect to the back-plate but the tabs that Tony is asking about are on the swinging arms and seem superfluous.

Yeah that's the ones I am referring to but I also have learnt about the anti-rattle springs. I always thought they were a flimsy for return springs.

I thought maybe I was missing some springs off those tabs but obviously I am not.
 
Yeah that's the ones I am referring to but I also have learnt about the anti-rattle springs. I always thought they were a flimsy for return springs.

I thought maybe I was missing some springs off those tabs but obviously I am not.
Ah I see it all now, some of it, (said the blind man). I'll have a look in the morning at my car and see what is there. I'll let you know what I find.

Cheers
Hugh Jarce
 
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