tjmra said:

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Make sure you have the handles at the right inclination when you do this because once they are on they are a bugger to get off again. (as you probably know).

Joe R

Click to expand...

If you don't have the special tool for removing these clips (yes, there is a tool - it's a flat piece of metal with an approximately 'U' shaped cut-out to push the ends of the clip to dislodge it), the easiest way is to take a cloth and insert the edge between the handle and the plastic bezel (you might have to use a small screwdriver/knife to make room) and with a see-sawing action work your way around the gap, at some point, the cloth will catch on one end of the 'C' clip and dislodge it.

Some use a small electrical screwdriver to remove these clips - insert between the handle and plastic bezel, twist screwdriver 90 degrees and rotate the handle or work your way around in the gap, at some point, your screwdriver will catch on one end of the 'C' clip and dislodge it.

Others use a hooked pick (or a piece of wire with a very short 90 degree bend on one end) which they insert between the handle and the plastic bezel and hook the bottom of the 'U' of the clip and dislodge it. If you examine these handles, you'll notice that the clip can only be fitted in one of 2 orientations - the bottom of the 'U' will either be under the length of the handle or at 180 degrees to the handle i.e. pointing away from the handle, so you only have to try to catch the bottom of the 'U' on the clip in one of these 2 places.

To refit, just do as 'tjmra' suggests above.

Al.

A little lockdown progress...

Just picking this thread up after a few years absence - I've had a couple of other restorations that have demanded more of my time than really had to give ...

Looks like you are making excellent progress.

These little cars really work their way into your heart.


Chris

Wish me luck! Hub & axle rebuild today. I might leave the tightening to the mechanic after reading how much trouble others have had.
Also wondering why the wheel bearing kit had a different nut compared to the original castellated one? Do i use the old or new?

Originally, Fiat used castellated nuts (and split-pins) for the adjustable nuts on all 4 corners, and then moved to the 'detent' design. If your rear stub axles don't have the groove in the end of the threaded section to allow for the use of the 'detentable' nuts, stay with the castellated nuts and split-pin system. On my 'F' I HAVE to use the 'detentable' nuts so I found an old, large centre-punch and ground the end back to give me an edge of about 5mm long and rounded. It punches the edge of the nut very neatly unto the groove on the stub-axles, both front and rear.
When your mechanic comes to adjust your rear hubs (and yes, it can be a faff, especially on the right-hand side), the rotational torque is:--0.36ft. lb. (50kgmm). I took a leaf from Peter's book and made a simple bar on which I can hang a weight. 1lb at 4.3ins. (from the centre of the hub). The bearing is tightened (with a new collapsible spacer between the bearings) until, with the 1 lb weight hung on the bar with the bar horizontal, the bar will stay put, and then will drop when the weight is LIGHTLY touched. A simple, slightly crude method, but it works!

Glad to hear that the reconstruction on your body has been succesful Starky---how are you these days? You are making a really good job on the 'wee beastie'---well done.
Good to hear from you as well Chris---hope that you are keeping well.

the hobbler said:

Originally, Fiat used castellated nuts (and split-pins) for the adjustable nuts on all 4 corners, and then moved to the 'detent' design. If your rear stub axles don't have the groove in the end of the threaded section to allow for the use of the 'detentable' nuts, stay with the castellated nuts and split-pin system. On my 'F' I HAVE to use the 'detentable' nuts so I found an old, large centre-punch and ground the end back to give me an edge of about 5mm long and rounded. It punches the edge of the nut very neatly unto the groove on the stub-axles, both front and rear.

When your mechanic comes to adjust your rear hubs (and yes, it can be a faff, especially on the right-hand side), the rotational torque is:--0.36ft. lb. (50kgmm). I took a leaf from Peter's book and made a simple bar on which I can hang a weight. 1lb at 4.3ins. (from the centre of the hub). The bearing is tightened (with a new collapsible spacer between the bearings) until, with the 1 lb weight hung on the bar with the bar horizontal, the bar will stay put, and then will drop when the weight is LIGHTLY touched. A simple, slightly crude method, but it works!

Click to expand...

Hobbler, thank you so much for all of this information; it will be put to use when it comes time for faffing with the tightening procedure! Good to know about the castellated nuts on the ‘F’, will use the originals & split pin system - I was not convinced by the new shiny nut - turns out for good reason!

I made quite good progress today, & started on the diff teardown this arvo. Will get some pics up. I’m sure there will be many questions to follow!

Cheers
Starky

A little progress this week.