I'm after a bit of advice from you guys that will have done this job lots of times. When I replace the engine and gearbox is it best to take them out and put them in as one unit or engine first and then gearbox? I'll be working on my own and only have a trolley jack to hand.
Also when I remove the gearbox and disconnect the driveshafts do I need the car in the air and weight off wheels?
Thanks

I'd say it's easier doing engine/box as one. I have the car on the ground, disconnect all cables and pipes, support engine on jack, remove the rear panel and engine mount, undo driveshaft bolts, remove gearbox cradle bolts to body and drop the whole lot enough to wheel it out. It's almost as easy as it sounds. Once out it's a doddle to split engine and box.

I removed and replaced mine as a unit but then I was lucky in that either I had or borrowed some neat gear - a wide, low transmission trolley jack for one.

Others on the list have equally and successfully removed the engine and transmission separately. It may be safer to do it this way if you only have access to a standard trolley jack as balancing the heavy combined unit will be tricky.

Either way you do it, it's pretty simple.

I think adaptors are available for standard trolley jacks though I'm not sure of their quality.

Chris

If you are working alone and do not own a car lifter I would suggest to remove them separately. It is more safe and takes not more longer.
I got the engine and gearbox out by myself quite easy. The backfitting is more painful

Is it possible to remove the gearbox only? I just don't want to remove the engine this time. Car is already raised at the rear and I have space underneath to work. I'm just not sure if it is possible.

gordinir8 said:

Is it possible to remove the gearbox only? I just don't want to remove the engine this time. Car is already raised at the rear and I have space underneath to work. I'm just not sure if it is possible.

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I haven't done this but the Haynes manual, although not recommending it, says that it is possible. It says that the driveshafts are he most tricky part to clear from the suspension.

Personally I would remove the whole assembly with the engine. Good luck.

fiat500 said:

Personally I would remove the whole assembly with the engine. Good luck.

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Wife at her mother:slayer:, gearbox in our living room. So since I didn’t want to remove engine and then gearbox (removing those as an assembly is a hard task for one person without assistant). I raised rear wheels about 16cm off the ground so i can work underneath and then removed the gearbox with the engine on. All you have to do is to support the engine with a tripod, you can put it between the flywheel and oil sump.
Next step is to remove the gearbox mount and lower the front end using a small hydraulic trolley jack . Then remove the two axles which as described at Haynes manual is a bit tricky but nothing hard. Installation was even easier than i was expected. If you ask me again removing gearbox only is better than removing it with the engine, much less trouble.

Nothing beats the knowledge gained by experience. I'm pleased you're rolling again. Now get that smell of gear oil out of the house before the boss gets home.

Paolo66 said:

I'm after a bit of advice from you guys that will have done this job lots of times. When I replace the engine and gearbox is it best to take them out and put them in as one unit or engine first and then gearbox? I'll be working on my own and only have a trolley jack to hand.
Also when I remove the gearbox and disconnect the driveshafts do I need the car in the air and weight off wheels?
Thanks

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After having done this job alone I would council that you remove the engine first, the car need not be elevated and the unit comes out easily, Working under the car with axel stands get it high enough to allow the gearbox room under the car for removal, again an easy job alone and you don't have to contend with the combined weight. support the bell housing too ( use a small pillar jack) as you can stress the gearbox mounts, gear shift linkage and cables etc if you don't prior to disconnecting and removal.
Ian.

A simple, but somewhat sneaky, method is to use an 'adaptable' engine removal 'trolley'. i built myself a small trolley that JUST fits under the sump of my engine. The trolley only has wheels (2) at the front of the trolley---when the engine has been separated from the gear-box, I put a small trolley-jack under the rear of the trolley, raise it just enough to lift the rear of the trolley off the ground, and then pull the trolley,complete with engine, out of the engine bay. It is big enough that I have a fair bit of 'wiggle space' for when I refit the engine. If the top deck of the trolley was a removable one, the trolley could be used for both the engine (deck removed) and then the gearbox (false deck on).

the hobbler said:

A simple, but somewhat sneaky, method is to use an 'adaptable' engine removal 'trolley'. i built myself a small trolley that JUST fits under the sump of my engine. The trolley only has wheels (2) at the front of the trolley---when the engine has been separated from the gear-box, I put a small trolley-jack under the rear of the trolley, raise it just enough to lift the rear of the trolley off the ground, and then pull the trolley,complete with engine, out of the engine bay. It is big enough that I have a fair bit of 'wiggle space' for when I refit the engine. If the top deck of the trolley was a removable one, the trolley could be used for both the engine (deck removed) and then the gearbox (false deck on).

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I had this wood platform build and put it under the engine, then lift it with my hydraulic jack just to take the weight, disconnect the engine and then lower the platform, drive it to the elevator, second floor and inside our living room

Thomas

I liked everyones' ideas preceding this and was always envious of the devices for engine removal. Now that I have a traditional, old man's buggered-back, some method to lighten the load is essential. We had an ancient garden hanging-seat which I had stripped for its metal tubes and it was this that gave me inspiration for a contraption. A couple of years ago I bought a heavy-duty trolley-jack with a removable cup; I call it Theresa because it's strong and very stable. The frame I have made has a spigot which is welded underneath (not visible in the image). This is at the centre of gravity of the combined engine and gearbox and which fits into the swivel-hole on the trolley-jack.

Basically it is tailored to fit over the engine-sump, with an outrigger to support the gearbox. I prefer to remove the two components as a lump but a slight adaptation would allow me to retrieve the engine alone.

As yet it's not been used, but i'll report back if it works succesfully or if it fails.

I did remove my gearbox without the engine the first time I did it, even though I had the car over a pit it was very awkward, I wouldn't even attempt it without a pit. Since then I removed the engine / gearbox as a complete unit and found it much easier and quicker. Just my opinion

berkeleyman said:

Since then I removed the engine / gearbox as a complete unit and found it much easier and quicker. Just my opinion

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I share your opinion. Using the engine-holdr I referred to earlier the operation was lacking the trauma that has previously accompanied having 100kg of machinery wobbling on jacks/blocks etc. My fittting will need some further adjustments as the rear support for the gearbox needs to be removable if you want to detach the gearbox from the engine.

Also, the generator side of the engine, when assembled, is somewhat more out of balance with the exhaust side than I expected, so I might move the pivot point slightly to the left.

All these clever devices to help with the removal/re-fitment of the 500 engine make me chuckle. When I worked at Radbourne Racing the jack was used merely as a support to stop the engine falling down and the gearbox being damaged---I would the heave the engine out and hump it up onto the workbench---on my own! Sadly, that was many (and I do mean MANY) years ago when I was "in ma yoof"---used to put it back that way as well! Fond memories. Now, like most other people, I need a 'device' to help me.

Mines not as sophisticated as Peter’s but it does have wheels!! It’s in a ‘U’ shape so you can slide the jack in and out and is long enough so that you can get the jack on the balance point, which is pretty much on the bell housing if I recall?

That looks remarkably like my in/out device---even to building up the sides with whatever was lying about!