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fiat before 1.jpg
fiat before 1.jpg

500 (Classic) 1963 'D' resto with 126

Overview Gallery Discussion

Introduction

Hi all, I have learned a huge amount from threads on this site, so now my own resto is underway I thought I should start my own thread. I don't guarantee I can add an insight, but hopefully I can offer some inspiration!

I've never restored a car before, but have done a few old vespas and recently completed a nut and bolt restoration on an old moto guzzi, so am pretty confident I can have fun with this car and hopefully do a good job.

I bought the car in about October last year through an online auction. It was in a different city so I didn't view it first. A friend had a quick look and I took a bit of a leap of faith. I's a 1963 D model, which has had the rear roof unbolted to make it a "Transformable" of sorts. The existing roof just used the standard roof frame and some extra cross bars. You had to fold it back by hand but it worked well enough. The car ran well and I had a blast driving around for 3 months of summer.

It was pretty obvious the car had rust but I ignored this while I had fun. Earlier this year the car failed its warrant of fitness test so it was time to go and see my mate Dan, who's a panel beater, and figure how bad the rust really was. The pics here show some of what was in the sills and floor. The car had a "makeover" in about 1990, and was probably quite god then, but 22 more years on the road and the rust had slowly done its job. Front panel, battery ray, drivers door, floor, inner and outer sills all needed replacing...

Faced with either a full resto or a trip to the dump I decided to save the car. And so the learning curve stated! I'll post up soon with some pics on whee the panel work has got to so far, some details of the fiat 126 donor I found and some of the work I've done on the rest of the car while the panel gets done.

Cheers Roger
Click to expand...
Looks great Roger. Thanks for the tips on seat belts.
What's the best time to tackle these. My car's finished at the panelbeaters and off for a respray soon.

Tim
 
Hi Damian. My engine tinware is coated with a type of high performance coating supplied by a nz company called, funny enough, High Performance Coatings! They also do a lot of high temp coatings for exhausts and other car parts. I am sure there will be an equivalent supplier where you are. The finish is textured, a little bit like the Hammerite finish you used to get on old tool boxes etc. I went for that because it hides dirt and the extra thickness dampens reverberation. I guess technically the greater surface area also disperses heat a tiny fraction better too.
Cheers
Roger
 
Cool Car Rodger - VERY Cool Car !!! good job all round. Mine will, alas, be nowhere near your standard, but I have just got my cooling tinware back from the powder coaters - in a very (in your face) bright Red!!! Tomorrow will be a busy day getting the engine back together and running again. Now, you mention a near miss with your oil piping and the cooler fit can you elaborate please? I have noted the fittings used in your latest pics what type are they? Do you have an accurate figure for bhp at the wheels with your set-up? Thanks.

Ian.
 
Hmmmm after 700kms of mostly trouble free running in I was unexpected left stranded last weekend... Keen to hear people's thoughts...

Car ran fine for 5kms or so of across town driving. Then gave a bit of a surge for half a second before losing power and stalling.

Once stopped it coughed a little on the starter but did not start.

After a bit of a look around the engine for any obvious faults it still refused to start.

After a quick coffee - good luck to break down next to a cafe? - the car started but ran for only 2-3 seconds before dying.

Repeat the above while waiting for tow truck.

Once home no start at all.

No spark with new plugs

12.5 volts measured at positive side of the coil - brand new coil

Spare coil fitted, still no spark.

(BTW no fuses blown)

I am starting to wonder if the fancy 123 ignition unit may have failed? A Google search has found the occasional reference to failures but no discription of the circumstances.

It is the 123 which outwardly mimics the original distributor, so I was able to take off the cap and check that the rotor is turning when the engine turns over.

If anyone has any ideas I'd be happy to hear them!

Cheers
Roger
 
stevehg said:
Assuming you haven't developed a dodgy earth connection, it appears it could only be the 123 unit or the leads at fault.

cheers, Steve
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My thoughts exactly - you have power to the coil but no spark can really only mean a bad earth or this 123 unit thing (or distributor on a car without that box)
 
Hi. Roger Happy new year by the way.What a fab restoration .I have just finished mine and drove for the first time.Everything was ok but OH the steering play.I have tried to adjust but no joy.I have just managed to buy a 126 rack,so will be doing the same conversion as you.Just one question do you use the 126 rack as is or do you have to change the ends.I thought I had done a good restoration but yours is way better than mine.

Thanks Bryan :worship:
 
i had the same thing with mine and it was the 123 infact i went through 2 of them before going back to points and has beed perfect ever since
 
Hi Phil. I may have some, new and unused. Let me check later today. Where are you based?
 
I had a situation where the car drove beautifully TO my destination (about 40 mile away) but after about 3 miles on the way home it ran VERY badly. It back-fired so violently that it became undriveable, with big flames out of the exhaust. If I gave it a cool-down period, it would start, then after a couple of miles, the problem would return. Luckily, I JUST made it through the 'Birkenhead tunnel', where the breakdown fee is about £70, just to heave you out! The problem turned out to be the 'Hall effect' electronic ignition. It would seem that the heat from the engine's 'cooling' air blows over the distributor and slowly cooks the modern electronics----I wonder if the '123' ignition systems suffer the same problem. I have slightly modified the housing on the distributor side of the engine to try and deflect the hot air away from the distributor---only time will tell if I have been successful!
 
With a "Hall Effect" you need to be sure you have put the "Thermal Grease".
Also it's sitting down on a flat surface no pips.
Alan
 
I am about to purchase a classic 500 but am unsure whether the 650cc engine swop enhances the car or detracts . Should the car be original or does the 650cc make it a better car? Help!
 
f1tm said:
I am about to purchase a classic 500 but am unsure whether the 650cc engine swop enhances the car or detracts . Should the car be original or does the 650cc make it a better car? Help!
Click to expand...

The answers you get will depend whether they are written by those who look for a, relatively, easier drive or those looking for originality. A 650 engine and synchromesh gearbox make the car more able in today’s driving world whereas a 500 with original, crash, gearbox takes a bit more practice, maybe skill, to drive but can be a bit ‘sweaty” in modern traffic! To me it is all about originality, but you.........?
 
Hi "F1TM"---I am in Saltney, just outside of Chester---if i can be of any help, feel free to contact me direct. My own car is a replica "Abarth 695" (I am in the process of building the 'SS' engine) with a well tuned '650' engine. AS mentioned, it depend what you want the car for. The bigger engine, even in standard format, makes for much easier driving in modern traffic.
 
f1tm said:
I am about to purchase a classic 500 but am unsure whether the 650cc engine swop enhances the car or detracts . Should the car be original or does the 650cc make it a better car? Help!
Click to expand...

Nothing to stop you building a hybrid by boring out a 499cc crankcase to take 650 pistons and cylinders. Lots you can do to keep the engine looking standard on the outside.
 
I have both the original and a warm 652cc which is currently in my car. The bigger engine and synchro box make the car so much better in modern traffic. For me the 652cc while an expensive change over is worth every penny! Just be prepared for a brake upgrade. I have the 123 ignition and an electronic fuel pump and the car is super reliable! Starts really easily even when hot.
 
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