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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #16
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Re: What compression should each cylinder have roughly around

Sorry to butt in .. but I noticed the comment about a new fuel pump .. the car ran ok for a while but now doesn't ...

One of the faults with the old style mechanical fuel pumps was that the pump arm would wear a groove in the cam that operates it. When that groove becomes excessively worn it doesn't operate the pump arm/lever properly. Fitting a new pump works for a while until the pump lever wears the groove even more.

A couple of decades ago (at least) I was driving an old V8 Rover to a classic car autojumble when the car began to slow and then cut out .. and then restart. By the time I'd reached the autojumble I'd already decided that it was a faulty fuel pump and bought one at the autojumble which I fitted there and then.

It was fine for 100 miles and then the problems started again .. It was the cam that operates the pump lever at fault - it had a groove worn in it.

A simple check is to remove the old pump and use a torch/mirror to look inside the engine and check the operating cam.

A temporary get you home (or quick check) measure is to remove the gasket between the pump and block - this allows the pump lever to sit a tad further inside to compensate for wear on the operating cam.

Way back when, a home 'fix' was to braze a blob onto the end of the pump arm. This allowed the blob of braze to compensate for wear on the operating cam. The alternative of course was either to replace the worn cam .. or fit an electric pump.

With a mileage of 24,000 on the clock it's difficult to see why the engine should be shot - unless it has been badly neglected/seriously overheated.

As somebody has stated, a dry and wet compression test will give you an indication of the engine's health.

Good luck.
Thanks Fiatcinquecento, jackwhoo thanked for this post
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #17
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Re: What compression should each cylinder have roughly around

To answer the original question, the compression on each cylinder should be 8.6 bar (give or take 0.15 bar).

Gadge is right about retorquing the cylinder head (although the handbook says retorque happens after 600-900 miles... so 750 miles I guess... but it wouldn't hurt to do it sooner as well) When retorquing the bolts you have to do it in a certain criss-cross order, and in two stages; first to 25Nm then to 49Nm
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Re: What compression should each cylinder have roughly around

Quote Originally Posted by Xylaquin View Post
To answer the original question, the compression on each cylinder should be 8.6 bar (give or take 0.15 bar).

Gadge is right about retorquing the cylinder head (although the handbook says retorque happens after 600-900 miles... so 750 miles I guess... but it wouldn't hurt to do it sooner as well) When retorquing the bolts you have to do it in a certain criss-cross order, and in two stages; first to 25Nm then to 49Nm
Yes it definatly needs to be done. I covered about 1500 miles without retorquing the head and blew the gasket. The nuts spun off with the greatest of ease when I investigated it. Because of its design it vibrates a lot and my guess is that when you initially tighten the head down, the gaskets squashes down then settles in which relaxes the pressure on the nuts making them vunerable to working lose. I followed the handbooks advice the next time and happily I'm up to about 160 psi on each cylinder (not sure what that is in bar) after about 2000 miles.

I havnt got the torque fingers to hand but yes it needs to be done starting from the inner ones first and then just work your way out at oppersite ends to the last nut you turned.
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