Technical Oil Pooling in Spark Plug wells

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Technical Oil Pooling in Spark Plug wells

TimZ

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Hi all, New to the classic Fiat world. From what I've been able to learn on the forums, the Fiat engines are known for oil leaks at the cam covers. I'm getting oil pooling in the spark plug wells as pictured. Can this much oil be expected from the cam shaft cover gaskets? Or should I consider replacing the Cam Housing gaskets also? I don't want to fix what aint broke, but want to get ahead of this issue. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tim
cam_covers.jpg
 
Hi Tim, Welcome to the FF.

Best practice would be to wash the area of all oil, then do regular inspections after using the car to see where it's is coming from.

Alternatively, as the cam cover gaskets are easy to replace, try that first to see if the leak stops. Also check the rubber seal in the oil filler cap.

There were 2 types of cam box cover gaskets available, a thick (about 3mm) rubberised one that would distort or break if the 2 retaining nuts on each cover were over tightened, and a thin paper composite one that wouldn't seal if the cam boxes or covers mating surfaces were distorted. Can't see from your picture which type you have.
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^^^ x2

The 12 point nuts do hold down the cylinder head. The screws with the internal hex's are studs which screw into the cylinder block. Afaik the internal hex is to allow the studs to be removed if required.

You could re-tighten the cylinder head nuts if you wish but it's not normally done once the cylinder has been retightened once after the engine is built at the factory or if the cylinder head gasket has been replaced. Personally I'd leave them alone, as one thing can lead to another...

If you do decide to retighten the cylinder head, you'll need a torque wrench that can measure the required torque ( a standard 1/2 sq. drive one should do) and a suitable 12 point socket to fit the cylinder head nuts. You should follow the procedure described in your Haynes shop manual. Essentially you start with the centre 2 nuts (there's 10 in total), loosen 1 of them by about 1/2 turn and then re-tighten to the correct torque figure using a torque wrench, then loosen and re-tighten the other of the centre pair of nuts. Then you move outwards to the pair of nuts either side of the centre pair (4 in total) Loosen and re-tighten each of these in an X manner. Then do the remaining 4 nuts (2 at each end of the cylinder head), loosening and then re-tightening each of these in an X manner. Only loosen one nut at a time and then re-tighten it before loosening the next nut. Don't loosen all the nuts at the same time or you might start an oil leak/coolant leak at the cylinder head gasket.

After you've finished, it's no harm to check the timing belt tension before starting the engine. If the timing belt has covered iirc more than 30,000 miles / 4 years, has any oil on it or you don't know when it was last changed, it would be a good idea to change it, plus check it's tensioner bearing.
If you click on the Search button at the top of the page, you can search e.g. Timing Belt - this topic has been covered many times in the past.

AL.
 
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Davren, Thanks for the info. The cam cover gaskets on there now are the paper type. I've read where cork gaskets are an option. I have paper replacements that came in a larger kit that has the head gasket, seals, etc. Will check the filler cap, replace just the cover gaskets for now, clean it up as suggested, and watch for leak sources. Thanks!
 
F123C - Thanks for the thorough explanation on the cylinder head bolts. I think I'll leave them alone for now . . . if it ain't broke, don't fix it . . . But I will file your instructions away for future reference.
 
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