Here is my X I am building to run at the Bonnaville
Salt Flats in the Modified Sports class H (1k to 1.5K). The motor is a 05
1397cc Hayabusa with Web cam and should be in the 220-235hp range on pump gas.

The motor is setup in a cage that goes in the car like legos. The cage has all
the motor mounts so removing the motor requires unbolting the motor cage, the
water hose, clutch hose, throttle cable, air hose (push button air shifted)
and the one plug from the wire harness. The motor can be pulled out of the car
by one person in about 30 mins.

We made the motor easy to swap because we have a backup motor and are running
in the blown class as well. This way we can install the turbo kit in a hour
(from key off to key on).
The turbo is a Garrett T28 and are only running 7-9psi boost. This on a bone
stock motor (1300cc) is good for about 250hp before the stock fuel system
needs to be upgraded. With a bit more flow to your fuel rail the motor stock
is good for about 300hp providing you are not going balls out 24/7. 7-9 psi on
a 1397 bore with cam and open hedder should be in the 325-350+ range.

I have a friend who has 600+ Hp in his busa (on fuel) but to make a motor
stable at that HP requires more investment than I want to spend at this
point......but it does make me wonder and if this year goes well at the salt and the numbers work out I may try and be a falcon killer (inside joke...)

I have also lowered the car (4 inches off the top and 2 off the wheels and
susp.), the windshield was tilted back 11" and a full belly pan of UHMW and
from what I can gather I have been able to lower the Cd (drag) from .38 stock
to around .31 or better meaning that it should only take around 175 HP or
less, to firmly break the current class record @ 151 mph......but this is only
on paper and I wont know until the car is running.



The car is going to the roll cage builder in two weeks. I have just got two
new front wheel bearings and the wheels (4 inch wide tires front and rear!)
will be here any day. The fuel pump arrived a few days ago and have to get a
matching regulator and fuel filters. But the car should be fired in less than
a month if everything goes well.


I have many more pics that I will post including the side profile, spool shaft
ect.

Thanks for any comments or advice!
Also check out Anders 350+hp mini @
http://www.minibusa.no

Jonny Hotnuts

sweeeet!!! good luck keep us posted

Here is a pic from a few days ago.

New stuff arriving, wheels, fuel system, tires.
The original is in the bottom right.

Had to have some stock removed from the insides of the spool to fit the RX7 rear end CVs. This slowed me down a bit but am now back on track.

After seeing this video:
http://www.big-boys.com/articles/rx7.html

I have to come up with something to vent pressure from the "up-turned" Fiat nose. I may have to make an entirely new nose to provent this from happening to me (the RX has its motor up front as well....not good for me!)
Anyone have any ideas?

Provided you haven't cut the front end of the car out to save weight you shouldn't have a problem with the bonnet lifting or anything like that.

The only thing you have to worry about is air getting under the car in the first place (actually a bit of a problem with X1/9s) and the consensus is to lower the car and create an airdam so there is less air lifting the front.

The largest problem is ensuring good cooling from the radiator - do not be tempted to vent the radiator out through the top of the car. This makes the front end lift worse not better as you basically turn the front of the car into a wing that generates lift...

Thanks Jimbro.

I have not cut off the front end of the car. Weight savings is very important to drag or SCCA racing but the oppisite is true for landspeed on salt.

One of the biggest problems on salt is lack of traction. I have the formulas to determine the amount of weight needed on your drive wheels and it can be staggering. I figure I will need to add 4-5 hundred pounds weight to the car to keep it from breaking loose.


I am now thinking of cutting some of the floor of the trunk out and mounting the rad facing down under the car with a helthy fan. This way the nose can go to the ground. I could also vent the two side scoops for air into the trunk.

That would be nice to use the stock scoops.

Thanks again

JH

That is a serious piece of kit!

Good luck!

perhaps for the front you need something like the dallara front, I think this thread may help,
http://www.sfconline.org.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1352&whichpage=2

rich

Hi, This looks COMPLEX!!. I'll bet it will be a ton of fun at 150 mph though

Sorry to all that it has taken so long to reply (my classical guitar studies, job, working on house projects and that car!)

Here are some updated pics.
The car was really coming together nicely and then had to strip everything out of it to put in the roll cage....it is only now that I am getting some of the stuff back together.

The motor is currently at a busa motor race shop getting some new cams, heavy clutch and other mods but will be back next week so it should be ready to fire up for testing and tuning.

As you can see the back is very low but did not want to do anything to the front suspension until the new tires and wheels were mounted.....now that the tires are on the car does anyone have any advice on lowering the front?

Currently the car sits with the front nose pitched up a bit and the rear tires are 1 inch taller!

Any advice on this will be appreciated.......I was thinking of just cutting the springs.....is that ok?

Also I will have to make a fiber glass nose.....
I decided to mount the radiator is in the rear so I can make a nose that runs the front all the way to the ground without having an opening for cooling. All aftermarket X fronts I have seen have the opening for the rad. This should help the air flow over the car and not under.

Note the switches on the steering wheel; they are for up shift and down shift.
The LED bar on the dash is a gear position – shift light.




Thanks for any comments
-JH