Hi, i have just changed the cam belt on my 1500 and now the car turns over ok and the marks are in the right place on the cam and crank (cannot see one on the flywheel) but there is no fuel.I have removed the pipes from the pump and cranked the engine over but no fuel is coming out.The car did run out of fuel before i changed the belt or i thought it had so i have but about 5 litres in.I have read in a previous post that if the timing is out then the pump would not work is this right ?.When i checked the belt before removing it was set to about 15 degrees, now i have set it to 5 could this be the problem

Thanks Shaun

First stupid question - have you checked there is any fuel in the tank?

I assume you have but lets get the really obvious one out of the way...

The fuel pump is driven off the same cam drive as the oil pump and the distributor so if you are getting spark and oil pressure then the drive is at least intact.

The fuel pump itself is just a diaphragm pushed in and out by a short rod that sits against a cam.

Try disconnecting the pipe from the tank to the pump and dipping it into a can of petrol and see if it pumps from there. If it does then you probably have a blockage in the tank. If not try a different pipe from the can to the pump, if still no fuel try the pipe from the pump to the carb. Odds are it is just a blockage in the pipe.

The fuel pump itself is pretty robust but it is possible for the diaphragm to fail but I would leave that possibility to last as it is the hardest part to solve since you need a specific part.

I have syphoned fuel up the pipe from the tank so i know that is not blocked.No fuel when i remove the pipe from the tank into a can and different pipe from the pump to the carb still no fuel.I have removed the pump and cranked the engine over and i can see the rod from the housing pumping in and out.The pump seems to work when i manually push the arm in and out but is very stiff.Could the rod not be pushing into the pump far enough to pump the fuel?

Thanks Shaun

Sounds like everything is good in isolation. The pump only moves a small amount at a time but it pulses faster than the engine cycle iirc. The only thing to do is check to see if the pump actually works on the block.

From what you've described it sounds like the diaphragm is damaged and not creating the vacuum it needs - the only thing to do in that case is replace it. It is possible the rod is worn down (or the cam for that matter) so it doesn't do enough work but that is on the unlikely side and it would have been a gradual affair rather than the pump suddenly stopping.

If in doubt the final resort is to replace the pump and if you are going down that road seriously consider replacing it with an electrical pump - a bit more cost and a bit more work but the result is very effective.

Thanks Jimbro

Am i right in saying that if i have the cam mark at TDC and the crank mark on 5 degrees if i take out number 1 plug the one nearest the cambelt the cam lob should be at the top.Only only say this because the mark on the flywheel is 180 degrees out

Thanks Shaun

I have been looking at fuel pumps and found this

http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/fiat-x19-15i-fuel-pump-713-p.asp

would this do the job and would i need i regulater like this

http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/sytec-flo-pro-fuel-pressure-regulator-carburettor-1-5psi-30-p.asp

I have no clue how to install this

any help thanks

shaun said:

I have been looking at fuel pumps and found this

http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/fiat-x19-15i-fuel-pump-713-p.asp

would this do the job and would i need i regulater like this

http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/sytec-flo-pro-fuel-pressure-regulator-carburettor-1-5psi-30-p.asp

I have no clue how to install this

any help thanks

Click to expand...

The pump would do the job all right, the regulator is 100% necessary but is a good idea as an electric fuel pump can overwhelm the float valve in the carb resulting in severe flooding (or worse).

The pump is typically fitted near the top of the engine bay (just below or to the side the centre stay). You need a fuel filter as well (the usual filters aren't really up to the job but will do in the absence of anything else). Ideally the filter should be before the pump to help protect the internals.

The rest of the plumbing is about as straight forward as you can get as the pump outlet goes straight to the carb inlet (via a regulator). The fuel return pipe remains unchanged.

The wiring for the pump should be through a relay and activated along with the coil. In an ideal world you should also have an inertial cut out switch as well so that the pump stops in the event of a crash (something like this: http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares...p.product_pID_11885843_lang_EN_country_GB.htm) but I've not seen one yet on an electric pump conversion on an X1/9.

shaun said:

Thanks Jimbro

Am i right in saying that if i have the cam mark at TDC and the crank mark on 5 degrees if i take out number 1 plug the one nearest the cambelt the cam lob should be at the top.Only only say this because the mark on the flywheel is 180 degrees out

Thanks Shaun

Click to expand...

The flywheel shouldn't be 180 deg out - as it goes around twice for each turn of the cam. At 180 deg out you are looking at setting the timing on 2 & 3 instead of 1 & 4.

The old school check is to disconnect the cam belt, set the crank at TDC and the cam on #1 with both valves closed. Only then reconnect the cam belt and retension it. The cam and crank timing should always be set at TDC. The distributor is typically the problem as it can be rotated through 360 degrees. Mark #1 HT lead on the side of the distributor and then set the body of the distributor so the arm is pointing approximately at #1 while the engine is TDC. If the leads are pointing at the bulkhead at this position you need to life the whole distributor up an inch (release the clamp completely) and reset the whole position so it is more favourable. Once you've done all this you should be in a position to get your timing right and working the way you want.

Thanks for the advice Jimbro

I am on a bit of a budget at the moment but would this work with a regulator and filter

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271121745154?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

or this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELECTRIC-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc5aadfbc

i know they are not top quality but i am only going to use the car at weekends

The QH one is pretty good actually - they are made to OEM standards and tend to be pretty rugged (I used to sell plenty of them years ago). The Facet solid state pump is another matter. I have no problem with the facet silver or red top pumps but the little solid state pumps are just trouble as far as I'm concerned - admittedly that is from a motorsport perspective but that's my opinion.

If you can stretch to the facet silver top (I know they are *much* more expensive) you will have a pump that just won't let you down. A lot of the pumps out there are meant for fuel injection so they work at much higher pressures than you need. I know the QH one is suitable and is probably the real bargain compared with the cheaper facet one.

Thanks Jimbro

Would this be ok for the regulator and filter

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360542686914?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Cheers Shaun

The filter king products are very good - you do need to be careful not to damage the bowl of course and the downside is that the filter comes after the pump, not before it so you need to make sure that the filter on the tank pickup is properly intact.

Can i put some kind of filter between the tank and the pump if so has it got to be any special kind or can i use a normal inline filter

Thanks again mate

A regular inline filter should be just fine for your purposes - just make sure the pump primes itself when switched on. They rely on fuel to lubricate them so if it can't suck through the filter then it will quickly destroy itself (also a good reason why you shouldn't keep running the fuel tank dry!)

I will remember that thanks

Would this pump or any other pump i buy still need a regulator on it or are there all in one sort of things

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370389906073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

On low pressure pumps like these the regulator is a safety feature not a necessity. It all comes down to how good the float valve is and the float itself. It is quite easy for the fuel pump to overcome the valve's seal especially if the return pipe to the tank has any detritus in it.

You could probably fit one of those pumps (I would still aim for the QH one but whatever you can get)

The higher the pressure the more the need for a regulator.

Now i see thanks

Now i am really confused

I still going to put a electric pump on but i managed to crank fuel to the carb but the car will not start.I took the belt off and have the camshaft at tdc,now the crank and flywheel are at tdc as well.To do this i had to turn the crank one turn to get the flywheel mark to show i have read that you can get the flywheel 180 degrees out so will that mess with anything else.My cap is marked 1 2 3 4 which i have put the leads to 1 2 3 4 on the engine 1 being nearest the cambelt.

I have marked #1 HT lead on the side of the distributor and then set the body of the distributor so the arm is pointing approximately at #1 while the engine is TDC

I don't understand how you can get the cam timing off like that. Where are you taking the cam timing from?