Hi, does this work

http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=1221


Shaun

The power benefits of using a colder, denser induction charge is proven.

The principle is simple, when the engine swallows air from a single cylinder cycle it does it by volume, not by mass. In real terms this means the warmer the air the less mass it swallows. Combustion is by mass, not by volume so you can burn more air-fuel mix in a single cycle when the air is colder.

Turbo charged engines have the problem in reverse. The turbo heats the induction charge up substantially which in turn significantly reduces the air-fuel potential. An intercooler acts to reverse the problem but can only go so far.

Cryogenic systems exist that can cool the charge below ambient air temperature but they are not suitable for constant operation so you don't tend to find them outside of drag racing.

What it means to an standard X1/9 is that you can gain a bit of power simply by opening up one of the side vents and ducting it straight into the air filter. The important detail is that it doesn't draw the air from directly inside the engine bay which tends to be a pretty warm place...

Thanks jimbro

How would you fix it to a K&N ?
If you use the carb fan would it be drawing in warm air

Supplying cold air is not the only criteria. The cold air is only of benefit when enough can be drawn into the combustion chamber. Alot of the cold air feeds are incorrectly designed starving the engine of air with increasing speed (not necessarily rpm).

What is the best way to get it into a k&n,or is it not worth the hassle for the benefits

You have to options - a ram-air system which is basically a closed duct (this is more of what old school is referring to) or an open system which basically just puts the stream of cold air over the filter.

If you were to go to the K&N website you would find that they do a range of cold air systems for a number of cars, close inspection shows that they are nearly always just an extended inlet pipe, a baffle to deflect radiant heat and the filter itself. The baffle doubles up to act as a mounting bracket.

In the case of the X1/9 I would suggest an extended sandwich plate to replace the old bakelite plate that helps to insulate the standard air filter housing and carburettor. The plate can also act as a mount to support some ducting from the gearbox side of the engine bay. Ditch the old carb cooling fan to make more space where you need it. If you look at the scoop on the side of the car you will see that it has one set of slats on the outside and set on the inside at 90 degrees. Remove the ones on the inside of the scoop to improve air flow as the standard scoop is actually quite restrictive.

The missing link is the ducting itself. Make sure you get proper heat resistant wire-reinforced ducting so it can't collapse but can deform without risk of burning through if it gets too close to something hot. Demon Tweeks is a good place to start but not necessarily the cheapest.

Thanks guys

I will try and find some pics online somewhere, it does seem to be worth doing

http://www.knfilters.com/kits.htm

Is this the kind of thing

That's it - I'm not suggesting you get one, the X1/9 filters are nothing like this but it does give you a general idea of what the kits are like.

I see the basic ideal of it and how it works thanks jimbro

The other option is using a 'Snorkel'?
T

Thanks Theo

It looks the part and must do the job very well,but i am tring to keep it original on the outside at least.

Which brings to mind... you know the 'Natural Food Company Advert'? With the bear in it?.........

'TRUMPETS'!!!!:devil:


Lol...

I got bored in the shed while working on another project on the car, so I had a go at this....Ill post some pics when I get a chance

Look forward to seeing them

I dont think that I would be getting too excited...its a Bodge (TM) job



Showing the Air intake after the horizontal lattice was removed



Showing the point where the air scoop vents into the engine bay, with hose jammed inside.



Showing the connection to the OEM intake



Showing the whole kit.

The pipes were 'stolen' from a Nissan Silvia airbox (my brothers car ) and will do until I can afford to make an airbox and can justify spending the $$$ on new materials.

I dont know if it makes any extra power (highly unlikely) but there is defiantly a 'roar' from the intake that you can hear in the drivers seat :slayer::slayer:

Just be very careful when it comes to water - with a closed pipe arrangement like that it is quite possible for the system to ingest a big gulp of water with potentially quite devastating effect on the engine.

Hmm...hadn't even considered that Is there an easy way to stop this? I'm already thinking of putting a filter of some description in the space between the intake insert (the black bit) and the actual body, would that suffice?

There is no way to stop it completely since you are trying to close off the system as much as possible but it might be worth considering moving the scoop end of the pipe back a bit so it isn't hooked in so tightly to the scoop.

Looks ok bludvl_x19

Thinking of the same ideal but with a k@n filter.