With an X19 it is far easier to use the flywheel mark as a reference for TDC.
On a 1500 the timing pointer is attached to the front crank seal housing, your Haynes maunal is probably describing the 1300 setup with three lines cast into the yellow plastic cover.
I dont know how you are doing this, but I'll describe my method.
Raise the car and support onstands, remove the RHR wheel and remove the splash shields on that side of the motor
Rotate the engine to TDC, there is a mark (a dimple really) on the flywheel periphery that aligns with the 0 degree line on the gearbox bellhousing, check this with the mark on the front V belt pulley. Flywheel mark is usually more accurate.
Check that the camshaft alignment mark, in a 1500 this is a metal tag cut into the timing cover back plate (black metal part), aligns with a groove cut into the periphery (on the back) of the Cam gear
(your haynes maunal probably shows the 1300 setup, in which a drilled dimple in the front face of the cam gear aligns with the pointer on the front engine mounting)
Remove the distributor cap and confirm that the rotor is pointing to number 4. Engage 4th gear and apply the parking brake to ensure the engine doesnt turn once you have it in the right spot.
remove the V belt that drives the alternator / water pump
Remove the belt by loosening the tensioner 17mm nut, push the tensioner all the way off with a screwdriver, lock the 17mm nut here with the tensioner fully off. This will allow the new belt to go on easily. While at this point, give the bearing a spin to see if it is still good, roughness or noise means you should replace the bearing as well.
Refit the new belt and ensure the marks haven't moved. Initially the only tension on the belt is from again loosening the nut that was holding the tensioner off the belt, this will allow it to move across and provide some tension to the belt, lightly tighten the 17mm nut again. If the distributor moves this is ok 'cause it can be retimed, but the crank/cam relationship must be spot on
Tension the belt by inserting a large screwdriver behind the tensioner (NOT on the new belt) and give it a push across after loosening the 17mm nut again, then REMOVE the screwdriver and place it on the ground, and THEN tighten the lock nut for the tensioner bearing.
Repeat this procedure three times, inbetween each time winding the engine over by hand a couple of revolutions. Then repeat the loosen nut, push with screwdriver, put screwdriver away, and retighten the tensioner nut.
This ensure that the slack is evenly out of the belt, and because you are only allowing as much tension as the spring will provide, you wont run the risk of the belt being too tight
38mm socket on crank nut is best, dont try and turn the engine via the cam gear bolt.
good luck, it's not really that difficult a job, but it can be quite daunting the first time around
SteveC
Your help is much appreciated.
