Help checking out 1300 4 gear Fiat X1/9 pls

Hello,

I'm considering buying an unregistered Fiat X1/9 (so can't test drive), verified '78, 1300 4 gear, 6 hrs drive away.

1) I can get a friend to check rust, particularly behind the front wheels (& behind back wheels?) and the foot well. Anywhere else to check?

2) I have a compression tester which I can send my friend so he can do the Compression Test. Anyone know what readings I should get for compression tests? 135, 135, 135, 135?

3) Claim is that mileage is 15,000 miles (25,000 kms). I want to spring surprise to make sure odometer is connected! Pardon my ignorance. Is odo connected to front wheels, back wheels or drive end of gearbox please?
ALSO: Where do the jacks lift it for that test please?

4) How do I check engine mounts?

5) Any other things I should check?

6) If NO rust/scratches, compression is even/high & engine mounts OK, what is it worth please?

Bill Oliver

x1/9...........more than the uno, rust, everywhere, and from what my friend has told me, absolutely everywhere, it's of more concern than the engine, the electrics, the condition of the interior...his has been pulled apart and rebuilt gawd knows how many times in the 6 odd years i've known him, and it's always the same....rust

the engines are essentially the same as the 1301cc found in the mk1 uno 70sx and turbo, just bigger capacity and no turbo. the turbo swap is quite common apparantly, although he's sticking a honda v6 in his, and the in teh states i think it's a fiero swap thats usual.

i wouldn't jack it for fear of snapping it in two....back to the rust thing

value? non runner? laid up for a long time? major work? he might have to pay you to take it away...

Hi Bill

Try this link

http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Fiat-X1-9-...00000001231631

As for your questions..

1) Windscreen surround & nose cone
2)
3) Broken speedo cables are common (connected at gearbox) and are very long and not the easiest to fit. Jack points are square section tubes towards the rear wheels.
4)
5) Crunching 3rd gear and have been known to jump out of reverse.
6) hard to say with a none runner, worth what you are prepared to pay for it.

Maybe Jimbro could fill in some of the gaps?

Great little cars if you can get a good one, if you really want one be prepared to look around. You will be rewarded one the the best drives for not a great deal of money.

Happy hunting

Dave

I shall try and fill the gaps then

2) 135 would be a good reading across the board but keep an eye out for a drop on 2 and 3 as a gasket leak between the two cylinders is not unusual.

4) engine mounts is a bit tricky as the three mounts tend to keep the engine very static when it isn't running. The dogbone mount is easily to examine though, any signs of serious cracking in the rubber means it is time to replace it. The other two are down to observation from the cabin - the side mount rarely fails and unless it snaps wouldn't do much even if it did fail, you just get more noise. The lower mount is the critical one - as it goes the engine sinks a bit - the driveshafts start to rub and you can find the gearchange becomes tricky. A dodgy gearchange is not just down to a weak engine mount though.

More gap to fill

1) a. The rocker panel (which you can check) and the inner frame (which can't be check without opening up the rocker panel). I had to replace mine. It is the peice which is inside the structural of a convertable car to strentghen it(making up for the roof structure). look at pic.

b. Around the windshield frame is an other bad rust spot.

c. The shock tower tend to rust terribly

d. the rear trunk floor, just above the muffler, then to rust bad (look at pic)

3) I replaced my reverse gear twice and the shaft, since I own the car (since 1980). As a note I used AC/Delco Synchro mesh transmission oil it works good. I also used redline. Yes the 3rd gear grinds, especially with the wrong oil in the transmission.

5) Some interior parts are flimsy, like the glove compartment lid tend to break(really hard to find). the ashtray. The dash cracks on the top.

6) electrical; it has the "big brown wire" engineering problem at the ignition. The small lead to the starter selenoid is too small. some ground wire a way too long (and small) for what they are driven (wiper motor). See various threads.

7) The rear arm bushing I have yet to find any to replace mine. I am thinking of getting some custom made.

8) Rubbing axle noise from bad lower engine mount. I replaced mine.

9) I had to replace my Gulp Valve, which caused a vaccum leak and the motor would not idle.

10) replace pop up light diode in the light raising motor circuit (on the light raising motor itself).



But I like the car even since and fun to drive.



Cheers!

Bob
79 X 1/9 USA
74 Spider USA

BIG thank you to all so far, particularly the photos.

I'll download a manual from that Greek site (can't find it now) to see what some of the terms mean but it looks like checking out will be a full day's job!


btw If two cylinders have gone, that would be exposed by a compression test. Right?

The car is 6 hrs away... and maybe that's a safety mechanism in itself! It means I'm really thorough in checking it out, rather than just popping over and falling in love with it! (btw - how come we don't have the smiley with the heartbeat?)

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