I need help with the hydraulics PLEASE! I've been hitting my head
on this stone wall of a problem for two weeks. My '78 X1/9 has been
sitting for 5 years and the last thing I did to it b4 that was replace
the master and slave clutch cylinders. I never could get pressure then
and I still can't. I've pulled the new master out and inserted an old one after using a brake hone on it and replacing the seals. I've re-routed the supply line, thinking maybe it was pinched under the dash. I've replaced the flexible line to the slave cylinder. I've tried pressure bleeding at the fluid supply end and a power suction bleeder at the slave end. At this point I'm getting occasional pressure that causes fluid to spray out of the supply cap if it's closed. I think this is a hint of where the problem is. HELP!
TIA

To bleed the clutch circuit, you need to back off the adjuster nut at the pushrod/actuation arm... all the way off...

Otherwise your trying to depress the diapraghm of the pressure plate, whilst there is still air in the system... this wont work.

Once you have all the air out, you can re-adjust your clutch freeplay at the lever, I like to have a couple of mm movement before I can feel that the release bearing is making contact, simply by moving the actuation lever by hand.

Sometimes when reinstalling the pedal box (taking the whole thing out is really the easiest way to replace the master cylinders) it is possible to pinch the supply lines, but you say that you have checked this.

I have also seen the original cotton covered supply hose (with age) fall apart internally, and the associated rubber debris, cause a fluid supply problem. If you replace this hose, use something that is rated to carry hydraulic fluids.... I've seen people use fuel hose here and that is totally wrong! Brake fluid will "sweat" through fuel hose, and allow the system to absorb moisture... bad news for the bare metal surfaces in the system.

Also remember when bleeding to ensure you top up the resevoir regularly, as there is only enough fluid for about 6 or so full strokes, and then the resevoir will run empty, putting more air in the system for you to get out again.

SteveC

I have recently replaced the master cylinder in my clutch. I found that if you will bleed the air out of the system you will regain your compression. I also learned that most if not all cylinders will have no compression once they have been replaced. Thanx

Richard

I'm still working on this with no luck. One thing I didn't
mention is that the car is sitting on a fair hill. I've tried
bleeding the system with the engine at both top and bottom
with no change but does it seem like a level area would make
the difference???
TIA...Mark

<font size="6"></font id="size6">FINALLY!!!
I finally got the bugger working. After maybe 4 weeks work I have a clutch pedal again. What it was it seems
was a bad tube / master cylinder seal. I wrapped the threads with
teflon tape and, after some bleeding I finally could tell I was getting
resistance at the pedal. All or 98% of the air is out now and I can shift again. YEAH!!! I hope the tape lasts as long as the car because
I don't relish trying to make a new flare on that tube under the dash.
It's an oddball ( to the USA ) size if I remember right although I think I may have the flaring tooling, having needed it sometime long ago.
Mark

Just pumped up my hydraulics.
I had real probs with a completely empty system - found it hard to get fluid flowing from reservoir to slave at g/box. so.....

1. made sure fluid geting to master cyl. (from reservoir to master cyl)
2. opened up bleed screw at slave.
3. loosened outlet of master cyl (under dash).
4.squirted fluid with a siringe down a tight fitting tube through slave and line, to fill the line and master cyl (actually had fluid coming back thru clutch reservoir).
5. tighten all loose lines etc; had pressure and then bleed as normal.

Until I tried this , I had probs priming the lines as everything was "dry".

Good idea Jorgy, I'll remember it for my X1/9's clutch hydraulics - seemingly original and untouched after 17 years!

It must say something about this part of the forum that your message was almost a year after the previous message!

-Alex

alexGS said:

It must say something about this part of the forum that your message was almost a year after the previous message!

-Alex

Click to expand...

You get less spam down here... erm... oops.... anyway lots of people don't know how to use the scrollbars, and end up posting this sort of stuff up in 'lets talk fiat' Only 'hardcore'* fiat owners post down below the stilo section

*for hardcore read "fiats that will most likely breakdown more often than being driven"

Found this on http://archive.mirafiori.com/show.php?fid=2&msg=25142

<snip>
That's when I talked to a friend of mine and he let me in on a
little secret. When this happens, it's usually caused by the
slave cylinder piston being pushed all the way in. If the
piston is all the way into the bore there is apparently only a
little tiny space for the fluid to get by into the bleed screw.
I removed the slave and sure enough the piston had been pushed
all the way in by the clutch fork. I manually pushed the piston
out about a half inch and reinstalled it. INSTANT RESULTS.
Thirty seconds later the clutch was bled.
</snip>

I pumped the clutch pedal about 1000 times then fired up google and found the above.

Worked a treat and yes took about 30 seconds to bleed.

1. I loosened off the adjuster nuts on the actuator rod
2. Loosened the bleed screw and applied some compressed air to blow the piston out a little. Make sure it doesn't come to far out : ) also be sure you're not blowing crap from the bleed screw back into the slave.
3. Pump the clutch pedal - lots of fluid coming out now!
4. Bleed to ones hearts content.

Lee
'76 RHD 60k

hi i havebeen having bare issues :bang:i bought a punto sporting 1.2 16v a few week and the clutch was light as a feather machanic said it was cylinders he changed i took it home worked great used it next day still good it wasnt used for a week ( i dont drive much) then tried using today and its gone back to the same again can some one put up cylinder changing/ finding/bleeding or wot to do tutorial with pics if possible thanks