(G) Louie Bee’s MK1

Hi all you Uno Lovers

Well I been off here for a bit – Thanks Turboned for looking after the Uno Section for us. Sorry I haven’t been on with advice for a while.

Any ways... I think it’s about time for your next instalment of 'The Further Adventures Of Louie’s Unos' .

A couple of weeks ago, I got my self a MK1 head, cam carrier, cam cover off a top bloke on E-bay. The guy also had an Alternator, Starter Motor, Distributor and an Air Flow Meter, which he offered so Cheep I couldn’t refuse .

The Head
I haven’t looked at the head much. The Valve seats look good – Ok a little sooty, but no sign of cracks between valves or plug holes. I haven’t pressed the valves down yet as there was no cam followers present. It appears pretty straight with a steal rule on, but I’ve not measured with feeler gauges yet.

The Cam Carrier
I worked fresh oil into it, reattached the pulley, and it turns pretty smooth. There is about 5 degrees through which it turns with a little more resistance, and I’ve yet to measure it’s straightness.

The Other Ancillaries

The Starter Motor throws its pinion out with 12V across the spade connecter, spins the pinion with 12 across the longer stud, and with 12V across the shorter stud, and spade connecter does both .

The Distributor – Not much to say about the distributor, apart from its outer o’ring has been leaking for years. The cap, rotor arm and leads fits on the MK2, and cured the running on 3 cylinders issue . Shame the MK2 is still loosing oil and coolant. - One for another day .

Air Flow Meter – looks like a bit of sand has got into the air way . Has anyone ever taken one apart? If I remove the base, will loads of things spring out?

Alternator – looks pretty clean with a September 2000 sticker on the housing if I recall.

OK onto the MK1 Stealth 1299 progress .

I removed the cam carrier – loosening each bolt a couple of turns so as to allow any depressed valves to close, putting as little strain on the carrier.

The cam turned smoothly when off – there goes my theory of seized cam bearings.

All the valves closed without the cam in place. They move downwards when pressed with a cam follower – so looks like no bent valves .

I eyed up the cylinder head and exhaust manifold bolts, sprayed them all with WD40, then changed my mind LOL.

With the cam belt now off, I tried turning the crank. It turned really smoothly with surprisingly little force . I tried covering each sparkplug hole with a finger to feel for compression - Nothing from any. It was then I realised I’d made the biggest schoolboy error of all I’d been turning the Oil pump – not the Crankshaft .

Off I went to get a 36MM Socket. The crank pulley bolt started to loosen, so I turned clockwise. Very slowly the crank moved about 10 degrees. I changed direction, and is started to turn freely . Now it turns freely in both directions.

I then hooked up the battery to check if the starter motor was able to turn the bottom end. With a turn of the key, my MK1 Uno sounded like it was screaming. Probably because there were too many ECU sensors disconnected .

I then tried to connect the starter motor’s low tension lead directly to the battery. Again, nothing – not even a click .

With a known battery, I achieved the same result . I’m so glad I got a spare starter motor.

The last thing I did was to spray WD40 on the starter motor’s nuts as it was getting too dark.

Regards All,

Wow - sounds like a weekend'o'fun getting those two going...

I laughed out loud @ you turning the oil pump...

I think you should spray loads of WD-40 in the spark plug holes (if you haven't already) as it sounds as though the piston rings were rusted to the bores (tends to happen after head gasket problems cause water to sit in the bore). I think you might end up taking the head off yet, but we'll see.

The Mk2 sounds interesting. Losing oil and coolant? Where is the oil dripping out? And I wonder if you have another head gasket problem... You'll have to tell us more!

About the cam carrier - I usually get out the Scotchbrite (green or purple) and give the bearing journals on the camshaft a rub, if they're not already shining. You'd be surprised at the difference it makes.

I'm beginning to wonder if I started something with my visit... it used to be so simple and sensible, Louie with his red Mk2 45, and now look...

-Alex

Yes Alex, your Kiwi influence has lead Louie astray You tried it on me, but it didn't work. But that's only 'cos my student budget won't stretch to buying Uno Turbos

Louie, nice to see you back online at last! Been wondering if you'd deserted us

As for the turbos, it's good that you're finally giving them the once over. Perhaps you should invite Dunc round sometime to lend you a hand. He'll probably get them rebuilt and restored in a weeked

Keep us posted!

Well it wasn’t really the Kiwi influence which swung it for me. Alex and I paid Dunc a visit. Dunc’s friend had just got his MK1 turbo re-shell back from a re-spray. With no back seats, or locks, Mike took Alex for a drive. I was chatting with Dunc around his defunked MK2. I recall saying I could never see my self owning a turbo, and that I was hunting a Nat Asp 3 door 1.4.

Mike and Alex returned. It was my turn for a ride in Mike’s UT... After my first go in an UT, the rest is history .

My work continues :d.

I decided to remove the starter motor upwards, contrary to the advice of Haynes manual. My oil cooler having replacement pipes in the way, if I were to remove them I would need to drain the oil, and sauce new seals for the banjo bolts.

So I set off removing remainder of the air cooler to plenum chamber boost pipe. Eventually, the starter was free . With jump leads, I tested my extracted starter. The pinion engaged, and spun :confused.

With more space around the bay, I took the opportunity to remove more oil and scum, polish up the dump valve, and replace some 20 year old spade connecters. Funny how a black wire polished up grey . It was supposed to be grey as it’s the starter motor’s other high-tension wire .

As I cleaned, I realised why the original starter was in operational. When I removed the can carrier, there was a really important wire connected to it. You got it - the earth strap .

Tonight, I decided I could polish further and replace more spade connecters later when the sleeper is in fewer pieces . I put the newer starter on, temporarily connecting the earth strap by the starter mountain bolt.

With the starter’s low-tension input shorted to 12V, the bottom end turned!!!! – Music to my ears !!!.

Shortly, the battery lost power. I decided to switch it for the red Uno’s battery. As I did, I slackened off its accelerator cable a little to fix my occasional stall issue (Yer Alex finally ).

After a short drive in the red en to charge the battery, and with darkness drawing in, I decided to call it a day .

Alex, under your advice I sprayed some WD40 down the plug holes thanks. I was going to wait till I’d done a compression test, but what you say makes sense . I will soon Goggle Scotchbrite . We will see about the head (s). The MK2 is another story – I’ll keep for another day .

Chas, Dunc’s project started as a bit of preparation for the Stanford Hall stand if I recall . I don’t think he has the spare time to call over my way at the moment. When he has finished his MK2, there is a Bianca next in the Que .

Regards All,
Louie Bee.

Well, that's all good news!

Sorry to hear that you're not the moderator any more - you've been a brick to this forum as far back as I remember (strangely, my join date seems to be before yours, but I'm sure that's an aberration).

Anyway let's get back on topic... The main earth wire/earth strap SHOULD be on one of the gearbox bolts! I don't think there should be one on the cam carrier, but it does no harm if it's there. I'm guessing that someone replaced the battery negative lead with a 'generic' replacement - connected one end to the battery, the other end to the bodyshell (under the battery) - and the gearbox got forgotten, so they made the cam-carrier grounding strap.

These engine bays DO get very dirty, with so much stuff in there and so many extra sources of oil leaks, e.g. the oil cooler pipes. Also, there's literally a pressurised oily mist in the intake system, so that probably finds its way out eventually. Do you have a standard dump valve? I wouldn't be surprised if it's leaking (I've yet to find one that wasn't)! You just attached a vacuum pipe to it, and give it the 'suck' test (as for the vacuum advance module). Advanced diagnostic equipment? Never!

I think you should invest in a battery charger. 3-5A output is sufficient - that way you can give your batteries a nice long overnight charge every now and then, because it must be hell on them with the short journeys in those traffic conditions and THEN being expected to churn life into anything that you've dragged home...

Cheers,
-Alex

Cheers Alex .

Unfortunately, it’s not the original Dump Valve. It’s a really shiney Forge one IIR. I do have a spare original one for the MK2. It’s in the glove box LOL.

Funny you mention the oily mist in the boost area. I was kind of wondering why it was so mucky in there. I was suspecting worn turbo oil seals.

That’s a point, how easy should the turbo’s turbine wheel spin? It seemed to take a bit to get it turning on the air side . Well at least it turned I guess.

Regards All,

I can't comment on the turbo itself - I haven't seen or played with enough of them!

I think you should run a can of engine oil flush through it (with the engine warmed up thoroughly) and change the oil for a good 10W40 - maybe there is some varnish in there or something.

How's the cambelt going? Is the engine far off running now?

-Alex

Hi All,

Cheers again for the input Alex .

I’m not sure how far off running I am TBH. I have e-mailed off for a quote on some parts (Parts.doc). I’m not going to buy all these parts, but I’m after a ruff idea on prices for extra treats .

Luke has also been pushing me to replace the head gasket while I’m so close, so I might just give it a go . We will have to see what prices the guys at Desira FIAT come up with, and if I can get a club discount .

No other progress for now . I’ve managed to borrow a camera with a flash (thanks Anj) !

Here are a couple of snaps on the current MK1 state of play.





Anj says hi Alex .

Regards All,
Louie.

Evening All .

Ok Ok, I’ve decided to bite the bullet and remove the head . Thanks everyone for the encouragement – you all know who you are .

I wire brushed the manifold nuts, sprayed on more WD40 and labelled up the head’s wires. To my pleasant surprise, all bar one of the manifold to head nuts / studs came free. The snapped one is an OK break, with plenty to grip. I’ll soon have to use Chas’s stud extraction technique .

I still need to drain the fluids and remove the turbo, before it’s head off time. More Uno fun for tomorrow.

Wish me Luck .

Regards All,
Louie Bee.

you lucky git lol, i had about 3 studs come out on me!

I just got lucky .

Today’s update...

Oil drained – Not bad looking oil . Very little sediment a nice colour good smell (for oil LOL). I wire brushed the Sumplug to remove all the rust which I could get at , then I applied a thin layer of copper grease.

Coolant – OMG!
I had to remove the air charge cooler to release the bottom radiator hose jubilee clip. What a job LOL. Apparently, the air charge cooler radiator was missing from this Uno for some years. I have the receipt for the cooler. It’s only a couple of years old still shiny.

Eventually the coolant was drained – can anyone tell me if / where the drain plug is LOL.

Oil and coolant bottled up ready for safe disposal.

Exhaust nuts wire brushed and left to soak in WD40 overnight .

I might have a look at cleaning up some nuts, bolts and washers tonight .

Regards All,

Oil can be disposed of at most dumps. As for coolant where can you get rid of that? I asked my brother in law and his answer was down the drain.

Yer - my local tip has a big oil drum for recycling.

Good question .

which begs the question - where should old brake fulid go

Where ever it should go, it's ready .

Regards All,
Louie Bee.

His answer was down the drain? I've heard of having a mind in the gutter, but going down the drain is not something I've thought of.

Coolant should probably be poured in the garden. Apparently the ethylene glycol (highly toxic) has a sweet smell and taste that is irresistable to pets.

Same thing for brake fluid really - this is special stuff and it dissolves in water. But I wouldn't pour it down a household drain - that's making work for the water treatment works - and not a good idea to pour it down an outside drain either (here in Hamilton, most of them lead into a river - and I suspect it would be similar in other places around the world...)

Coolant change sounds par for the course, though I think you should be able to remove the clip from on top. I use a flexible screwdriver (the end that takes the screwdriver bit is the right size for the hose clamp!) Otherwise, welcome to the world of jam-packed engine bays. My Uno Turbo had air conditioning which helps even more! And, you wanted a drain plug? A what?! You'll want cupholders next

The missing 'charge cooler' (intercooler to everyone else!) - that would be bad news! Unfiltered air would be rushing into the engine at atmospheric pressure, picked up from nice and low to get as much dirt as possible. The turbocharger would be blowing bubbles when you drove through a ford. I hope that someone 'bridged' the two pipes together!

As for the rest of progress <sigh>, I've never had a problem with taking out exhaust manifold nuts/studs, but I haven't 'got lucky'...

-Alex

Hmmm to tongue in cheek answer Alex it read differently the other day

No!!!

Yer, same here in the UK. The drain isn’t a good idea IMO.

/Rant.