(T) How To Remove Mk 1 Dashboard

Anyone who has tried to remove a mk1 dashboard will know that 99% of the job is fairly easy, but the last 1% is an absolute bugger.

The problem is down to two locating plastic pins at the back that clip the top of the dashboard down. They go in easily, but are a complete pig to get out. However, I've found a way of removing them without breaking them, so am putting this into a post so that maybe it might help others.

First of all, don't remove the dashboard without a manual of some sort. You need to know where all the screws are located else the dashboard will not come out.

First thing you need to do is to remove the steering wheel, steering column shroud, indicator stalk and instrument cluster. Make sure all the wires are disconnected. Undo the choke cable at the carburetor and let the cable hang in front of the firewall. You will be pulling this through when you remove the dashboard.

Also disconnect the brake light connectors at the brake pedal switch. This is easy to forget!

Pull off the door aperature rubber seals from where they meet the dashboard. It makes it easier to get the dashboard out.

Remove all the dashboard connectors from the back of the fuse box. You need to press a clip on each connector and they should then pull out. Don't forget the earth wires that go onto the earth block.

Now remove all the screws as listed in the Haynes manual or similar.

At this point the dashboard is just about ready to come out. It will only be held in by the two press on plastic clips underneath the dashboard at the top left and right corners. If you are VERY lucky these will pull free, but if not don't force them as they will break.

The way I found was to do the following. You will need a LONG flat blade screwdriver and a torch. Pull up the corner of the dashboard and look towards the back/ top using a torch. You will see the plastic dashboard lug pushed into a metal clip connected to windscreen scuttle panel. It's quite hard to see, so make sure you can confirm the location before going any further.

You then have to try and get the screwdriver blade past the side of the dashboard and under the locating lug, but also in the metal clip that holds it to the scuttle panel. It takes a few goes to get it right as it is very fiddly, but when you do get it simply twist the screwdriver and it should pop the lug out. Do the same for the other side, and you should then be able to lift the dashboard out of the car. The choke cable will pull through the bulkhead/ firewall as you do this as it's easier to refit it that way.

Attached are a few pictures to show roughly what to look for.

I think I've covered everything, but if doing this please check the manual first to make sure all screws and parts have been removed.

Excellent post Chas!

I found that with the windscreen removed, it is easy to pry the hooks out from the outside (if you're lucky) - but the windscreen flange gets bent if you're not (lucky that is...)

Next time (and, I have no doubt, there will be a next time) I shall use your technique. In the meantime, I have a related problem - how to get the hook on the driver's side back IN... I think a bit of wood and a hammer might do it.

-Alex

when you put the new one in did you use rubber/silicon grommets to cut down on the squeaking? and if so any clearance probs? cheers

Alex, the two dashboard hooks/ lugs should just push into place. They go into a kind of 'v' shaped metal clip that fits into the hole of the locating bracket on the windscreen scuttle. The idea is that they are easy to assemble (just push down and they should 'click' into place), but they are not so easy to remove as you and I both know!

If yours won't go in, then it sounds like the 'v' shaped clip might have become distorted. They do have a habit of bending when you force the hooks/ lugs out of them to remove the dashboard.

Turboned, no, I didn't use any additional rubber grommets when putting the dashboard back in. I did however cut two bits of rubber motorcycle inner tube to act as a sort of washer for the two lugs/ hooks that cause problems with removal. They had a sort of foam washer on them orginally as you can see from the pics I took, which over the years have become flattened and useless. I added rubber washers to these in the hope that they should insulate it a bit better.

I'm not too bothered about squeaks as aside from my hearing being shot to pieces (the joy of being a musician) I always drive with my stereo cranked up anyway! Besides, it wouldn't be a Fiat without squeaks and rattles