Hi all,

I have a 1991 1.4 sxie Uno which has trouble starting.

Once the engine is running it drives well and pulls in all gears

The trouble is, sometimes, when i leave the car to go shopping, the engine has cooled a little and does not want to start. It SOMETIMES starts when i pump the accelerator and catch it (even then it still wants to die and i have to rev it high for a minute or so to get it to be able to idle properly)

Another few times when in traffic, the engine would want to die when overheating (temp at 100C) when pulling off i would have to rev it high and accelerate quickly for it to not kangaroo hop.

Now the problem seems to be also when cold, the engine starts ok, but after a few moments the revs drop and the engine goes really lumpy almost as if its going to die, then i rev it up and it starts squeeling

Please help! I really like this car and want to sort it out!

This odd behavior is likely due to a worn butterfly valve sensor.

johorridoh said:

This odd behavior is likely due to a worn butterfly valve sensor.

Click to expand...

thanks for your reply

(butterfly valve sensor = lambda sensor?)

well i went through the engine yesterday.. oil change, drive belt & tensioner wheel etc and noticed the air pressure sensor hose (toward the back-right) was split at the end, so i cut the hose and re-attached it.. it is starting very well now.

however, when starting the car after approx cooling for 1hour (engine was still at around 60c), the car would kangaroo (engine would try to force itself to idle-speeds, and would probably die if i wasnt moving), and only after i really revved it and sped away for 5sec, did it return to normal

would the kangarooing be a symptom of a worn butterfly valve sensor?

where can i locate this in the engine bay? and also, being from uk, where could i get a new one?

*edit* http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-RENAULT-FIAT-SEAT-SKODA-PEUGEOT-LANCIA-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-0132008600-/230757814695?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Year%3A1991%7CCar+Make%3AFiat%7CCars+Type%3A70+i.e.+1.4%7CPlat_Gen%3A146A%2FE%7CModel%3AUNO&hash=item35ba3cd1a7

is that what i need?

Check idle control motor:
First.Measure voltage:
Engine off, ignition on.
Deflect the throttle and push the pin on the actuator.
Piston must retract and come back out when you release the throttle.

Sensor is picture 4 :
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8wnhlbkkevxn9je/RaaaKf4J1z

Picture 4of40 = 'drosselklappenpoti' .. is that the one? Where is it located?

Yes , it´s mouted on the side of the SPI.
Look at picture 13

johorridoh said:

Yes , it´s mouted on the side of the SPI.
Look at picture 13

Click to expand...

where can i buy this from? im in the uk

also, i have a problem with my headlights.. theyve become VERY dim.. to the point where its difficult to see them illuminating the road ahead when its DARK, let alone when there are any lights on

this will fail its mot so i need to fix asap

This part is around 400 € new.
Try to find a working used one.
Mark the position of that plate on the SPI. Remove the plate and see of it´s worn. It´s worn when the copper base is showing as on my pictures.Maybe ist´s just a broken air or water temperature sensor.
There´s a plug in the drivers compartment under the dashboard and the ECU can by read out.
Headlight: The heat of the beam burns away the coating and over the years they get dimmer and dimmer. I can´t help you from here as you Brits drive on the wrong side of the road
Check ebay and if your´re desperate disassemble the headlights and have them re-coated. There are people and companies that do that.
Good luck. If you can get that matter solved regard yourself as a pro.

johorridoh said:

This part is around 400 € new.
Try to find a working used one.
Mark the position of that plate on the SPI. Remove the plate and see of it´s worn. It´s worn when the copper base is showing as on my pictures.Maybe ist´s just a broken air or water temperature sensor.
There´s a plug in the drivers compartment under the dashboard and the ECU can by read out.
Headlight: The heat of the beam burns away the coating and over the years they get dimmer and dimmer. I can´t help you from here as you Brits drive on the wrong side of the road
Check ebay and if your´re desperate disassemble the headlights and have them re-coated. There are people and companies that do that.
Good luck. If you can get that matter solved regard yourself as a pro.

Click to expand...

im not quite sure it is the coating as the full beams are quite strong. its the regular dipped driving lights which are pretty useless. any other ideas?

could a bad earth or old battery cabling be the culprit?

fiatforums said:

im not quite sure it is the coating as the full beams are quite strong. its the regular dipped driving lights which are pretty useless. any other ideas?

could a bad earth or old battery cabling be the culprit?

Click to expand...

check the resistor under bonnet, had a coily wire visible.. this is to reduce wattage on Dip-beam..!!

here's a link..,
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-classic/347567-whats-coil-thing-near-bonnet-lock.html

charlie - Oxford

varesecrazy said:

check the resistor under bonnet, had a coily wire visible.. this is to reduce wattage on Dip-beam..!!

here's a link..,
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-classic/347567-whats-coil-thing-near-bonnet-lock.html

charlie - Oxford

Click to expand...

oh excellent! would it just be a case of cleaning it up or would i have to replace it?

sorry.. no idea personally..??,

I presume there must be a specified resitance value..,
if it's not within spec..then I guess you'll have to replace it

( maybe you could just bridge-it for FULL power..??) just a thought. for temporary / diagnostic purposes.

have fun..,
charlie

ok, so i managed to fix the lights.. the problem was one of the connectors inside the loom under the steering wheel had burnt through, so a quick clean of the connectors and the lights are strong now!

still having trouble with the starting... if someone could help...

once again:

1) from cold it starts fine
2) from 90C it starts fine if the car is left no longer than 15-20mins
3) after 30mins or longer, the car will start ONLY if the gas is pumped while turning the engine over, but it still wants to die and i have to keep revving the socks off it for a few minutes for it to 'catch' and stabilise
4) sometimes, if i do not 'catch' the first start, while the engine is 'mid-warm' (cooling), the engine will cut out, and will not start again until completely cold
5) if stuck in bad traffic (i.e. longer than 15mins without moving much), with the engine temp up to about 3/4 up the temp guage, the engine will try to cut out, and it is only possible to keep it 'alive' by revving it high... then when trying to pull off.. the engine will still try to die, and i have to really rev it, the drop clutch and accelerate very quickly

i know there is a problem with the ignition leads, as my uncles hand was hit by a spark from the leads when approx 5cm away from them (i think around area of the distributor cap), so i have ordered new ones

i am also tempted to order and new ignition coil/module


any help would be greatly appreciated!