Technical Issues to look out for when buying UTs?

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Technical Issues to look out for when buying UTs?

axnutty

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Sep 4, 2006
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Apologies first off. Newbie here and I suspect for all you seasoned UT owners this will be one of those frequently asked questions...but I have tried searching and not come up with anything.

What I want to know is what aspects should I be specially looking out for an old UT these days? Last one I was in was nearly 10years back, and back then they werent too old - only issues really were rust related in the bottom of the doors (rear arches could be problematic as well). I suspect that today anything and everything can be suspect?? But are certain areas more prone to rust than others? Is there anything that is no longer obtainable? Can you get replacement panels from Fiat still? Is there anything which is expensive to sort?

I suspect rust to be the major issues (is reshelling an option or are base models structually different to the turbos?) But then is there anything to watch out for with the mechanical side of things. Minor "italian" electric issues arent a worry to me.(Im happy to live with them! :lol:)

Im going to look at a car in the next few days so it would be nice to be looking in the right areas!

Thanks in advance... may have come just in the nick of time as Ive been looking at R5GTT's!! :rolleyes:
 
as you say, it's mainly the rust, absolutely anywhere, and certainly where you don't expect it. if you look in my gallery you'll see the pix of my disintegrating turrets, something one of our other members went through in the last couple of weeks too, a real killer as the cost of repair can easily exceed the value of the car. and thats just one area....

as for parts...well the usual places are worth checking, ebay, the classifieds here, etc. you can get bits from fiat directly, but to give you an example they wanted £180+vat for a new 13" turbo rim....best to use them sparingly. pattern panels are quite easy and reasonable to get, most factors can get the general mechanicals in, ecu's and turbos? harder and pricey.

me, a healthy flow of unos of the last 10 odd years means as some have gone to the scrapper, they've been stripped bare, cars given and bought just to be taken apart, and and ebay scoured for "just in case" bits, hence a shed with among other thing, 10 pairs of rear lenses...yes the mrs is a saint for putting up with it:D

it also helps to get to know you area for scrapyards, the ones i use tend to crush older cars very quickly, to make space, sometimes even when they have perfectly useable parts.

bottom line, if you get a goodun, great, well done, but you're still going to need to hunt a little for even the most basic parts, but then....tubs are all about the effort! btw mk1...or mk2?
 
used uno turbo parts are cheap and easy to come buy, my local motor factor can get pretty much any part which i need, and my local fiat garage can also get pretty much anything and are not as expensive as you may think,

areas to check for rust are the sills, floorpan, and suspension turrets, however bits of rust can be welded like in my case so i wouldnt walk away straight away if you see an uno which needs a spot of welding cause most of them do.

try and buy one which has been looked after, its well worth buying a good one for a bit more than buying an old dog for a couple of hundred quid as in most cases there like opening up a can of worms
 
WOW!:eek: Those rear suspension turrets look a daunting prospect! Welding doesnt bother me too much (does help having a welder and all ;) ) but obviously the less the better.

I cant say what model car or even what colour it is yet! I was just offered it the other night by a local farmer. All I know is it has spent at least 2 years covered up in a barn next to a few others. He described it as a "Fiat Turbo" and just seems to want rid of it along with all the other stuff sat next to it - hopefully going to view it this weekend and thought I better brush up on what to look for.

Are sills, rear turrets, floorpans, etc difficult jobs to reweld on these cars then? or no more so than anything else at least?

So all panels are easy to come by..thats something at least!

I take it seat covers and second gear synchros are prone to fail by any chance?! :lol:
 
Yep based on the Unos I've seen rear turrets rust badly so lift the carpet to check, sills go but are hidden by plastic covers which are best removed to check. Floor pan goes. If it has a sunroof then it'll probably have rust around it. The front arches can also rust although probably not as badly so have a good look when you've got the bonnet up. . They rust around the fuel filler cap. Bottom of doors as mentioned. Anywhere there has been any damage dents etc.

Mk1 (A - F) Early cars rust very badly but late cars seem better.
Mk2 (G - M) early cars seem to rust more the later cars.

Mk1 Unos the seats wear badly and it is has a few miles on it, likely to be worn through. Mk2 seats are much more resilient.

I don't think gearchange is too much of an issue but yes you might beat the syncro on 2nd or 3rd on a high mileage car esp when cold. Let the car warm up and change a bit slower if it's an issue, also try changing the gearbox oil.

Mk1 car had a flat nose, big headlights and a nice fibreglass tailgate with integrated spoiler along with some funny but interesting controls clustered around the speedo, red carpet and belts. Mk2 had a noise job which makes it look more modern and a revised and modern interior. I prefer the Mk1 as I feel it is more distinctive and special.

A buyers guide would be useful. Have a look over at http://www.sfconline.org.uk/models/uno/uno.asp for more info.

Please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this stuff because i'm no Guru just stuff I've seen and picked up from the forums.
 
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Mk1 car had a flat nose, big headlights and a nice fibreglass tailgate with integrated spoiler along with some funny but interesting controls clustered around the speedo, red carpet and belts. Mk2 had a noise job which makes it look more modern and a revised and modern interior. I prefer the Mk1 as I feel it is more distinctive and special.

Yes indeed. The problem is that the Mk2 nose is not much of a job because it's smoke-and-mirrors, the bonnet is at the same height so it's rounded off at the front edge only, and the front bumper is raised. Therefore when you put the Mk2 and the Mk1 side-by-side, the Mk2 isn't any lower or sleeker and neither car looks 'modern', so you might as well have the original. It's a bit like how Mini enthusiasts view the Clubman, except that had some advantages in engine bay access etc. which the Uno Mk2 doesn't.

Same goes for the interior - the Mk2 looks pretty average and not 'new' (being made of hard, uniform plastic materials), while the Mk1 looks quirky and actually works well, the strange-looking controls are robust and easy to use, and light up at night :) The seats and headlining of the Mk1 do fall apart, but you can probably devise a clever re-trim somehow, so I would not consider that a reason to reject a particular car (instead, more of an opportunity for personalisation).

Somebody told me that the Uno Mk1 looks like a Nissan Micra, but I think that's ridiculous, like saying that a Ferrari looks like a Lamborghini. I used to think that the Uno Mk2 looks like a Vauxhall Nova if you hollow-out the radiator grille, however, I now realise that this association was just as stupid: see photos below ;)

I tried hard to find some similar photos for comparison, and I've uploaded the four best choices (pity that the Uno Mk1 was in rough condition, but you get the idea - look how curved the bonnet is on the Mk1 compared with the Nissan!) In both cases I think it's clear that the Uno has the cleaner, less-cluttered styling. You can also see how the 'nose job' makes little difference. And as for the bonnet height, compare with the Grande Punto (which of course I have also found a photo of, for your convenience...)


My list of places to check for Uno rust:
- rear turrets as mentioned (five points each)
- outside edges of floor visible from underneath (three points each side)
- door bottoms, look from underneath door on inside (three points each)
- door sills, lift rubber door seals with finger and expect a hole or two (two points)
- corners of windscreen, edges of wheelarches, back panel behind rear bumper - visible from inside boot, spare wheel well, engine bay under headlights (one point each)

Add up points and if over ten, try to find a better example ;)

Cheers,
-Alex
 

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i personally wouldnt buy another uno turbo. only still have mine now as i know its mint. if i was to buy another id take the carpets up and everything. in fact, id wanna see it stripped bare. bulkheads can be a right arse too. plus costly to sort. depends how badly u are wanting one. theres a reshelled black uno turbo n ebay, id be tempted with that one, as he goes into detail about its rust free ness so he obviously knows the rules hehe

once rots set in, then its very very had to get rid off, plus its not nice seeing aload of welded on patches, looks very un neat and would bugg me, but again, depends how fussy u are.

overall, a proper mint car, and i love em, just the crappy material theyre made from is a big downer.

ive reshelled mine and helped my mate reshell his, and i tell ya what, i aint doin another! :D

Dunc
 
i personally wouldnt buy another uno turbo. only still have mine now as i know its mint.

Might be easier to buy a Grande Punto, then :eek:
They are (I would guess) pretty mint, being only a few months old!

I think the decision to buy an Uno Turbo comes more from what you see it as, rather than what actual condition it's in. For me, Mum and I owned several Unos and I wanted, one day, to own the ultimate, the Turbo. So I did. It's as simple as that (y)

-Alex
 
Right update. Been to see the car now, and OMG! Its sat in a barn on axle stands with the engine out... and has been for at least 10 years reckons the owners dad. Its a light bluey colour MK1 E reg (1998), with about 70K on the clock. Rust wise, after Id pulled back the covers and had a got some sort of a look at it, its remarably good! I guess with it being dry stored for all these years! LOL. The rear arch covers are off and one side has a couple of small bubbles (could be treated and recovered without showing). The sill on passenger side has a "spiders web" of rust creeping under the paint about an inch long. Didnt get to see the arch turrets unfortunatly. The underneath looked solid from what I saw. Interior is all complete, but drivers seat is badly worn. The engine is all under wraps and complete (or so he thinks) and was rebuilt a number of years back. Its a non sunroof and looks all standard. As for price - well he just said make me a fair offer - he just wants his barn back! In all honesty I dont know what would this car would fetch on ebay as is? Im guessing not a lot!! I didnt get any pics unfortunatly but will be going back later this week to have a better look hopefully. At a rough guess what would this car be worth,.... if anything!
 
I reckon £50 max - about the value a scrappy would offer if you're lucky. End of day someone is gonna need to do a fair amount of work to get the car back on the road, not something which is undertaken lightly and probably beyond all but the most determined. Engines out, did you check if you could turn it over by hand? Brakes are probably seized, will need a new set of rubber, rubber boots etc could well be shot, probably need a new clutch discs etc really will need alot of work if it's been in a barn for 10 years and if it got in there if probably had something wrong with it in the first place.
 
I reckon £50 max - about the value a scrappy would offer if you're lucky. End of day someone is gonna need to do a fair amount of work to get the car back on the road, not something which is undertaken lightly and probably beyond all but the most determined. Engines out, did you check if you could turn it over by hand? Brakes are probably seized, will need a new set of rubber, rubber boots etc could well be shot, probably need a new clutch discs etc really will need alot of work if it's been in a barn for 10 years and if it got in there if probably had something wrong with it in the first place.


Yeah I was thinking maybe a £100, so not far from what I thought really. I unfortunatly have a gluten for punishment with cars - so may fit the bill!

Couldnt get to the engine to turn it over. Not my major concern really anyway - more the shell! ;)

I did spin the hubs and they all were OK. Discs werent even rusty. It appeared to have new lowering springs and shockers on it as well.

Did concern me though - why if the engine had been suposedly rebuilt had it not been put back together? :confused: Hmm...
 
I think Biz built that one......?????

:D lol, nah that was a grey MK2 mate!

Which reminds me, i must call my mate! lol :eek:

Just think of buying a UT like your 1st time at sex..................Poke around a bit and theres a hole somewhere!! :yum: lmao

You never know its could be a right minter!

Plus im converting my current UT!
So a step-by-step guide coming soon.................
 
Well it's not often that I disagree with thepottleflump... :D

...but I think that 100-pounds sounds like a STEAL...
A mainly-rust-free Uno Turbo in original condition... I mean come on... the mechanical work has got to be easy if it's all there and just needs putting back together. I'd jump at it like a shot. Sounds like it needs the loving touch of a caring owner (e.g. to 'Waxoyl' or similar), and once complete the car would be worth upwards of 600 pounds. It has to be worth your while... surely? Would be a great project to write up.

I know what TPF means about the unknown reason for it being in the barn in the first place. James May wrote a piece on this in Top Gear a couple of months ago. Basically, it's usually 'the final straw' that puts a car off the road, and you might find that it's quite a frustrating final straw, like an ECU or ignition fault. Or maybe it had a broken cambelt. It must be engine-related for the engine to be in bits, I guess. But more engines than bodyshells survive these days, so I'm sure it's the right time to do something about it.

Not all 'rubber' parts deterioriate when not used, it just depends... you would have to go through everything fairly carefully, but that pays with any Uno these days, even the ones regularly-used will be needing CV boots etc. by now.

In NZ, such a car would probably have lapsed registration unless the owner applied for an exemption every year - "put it on hold", which I think is the equivalent of a SORN in the UK. So here in NZ, it would probably cost upwards of $500 (180 pounds) to get legally back on the road. Does this sort of thing apply to you in this case? If so, then you have to consider replacing the right-front suspension turret...! <AHEM>, I mean 're-shelling' another Uno Turbo... ;)

Anyway, let us know what happens :)
Cheers,
-Alex
 
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I see where your coming from Alex, but in all honesty I dont think more than a £100 it would be worth it. The amount of work involded already puts it at a love affair rather than reason level.

Although structually intact like I suspect it is, it does fall into "easy work"

Ive just bought a 106 Rallye. That has been stood for a year. I can assure rubber perishes rather quickly, and have just had to replace drives shaft gaiters, trackrods, droplinks all ready. The Idle control valve has gummed itself up and has just had to be replaced. Exhausts can go funny, rust can appear in strange places too. Interiors can go moldy. All this adds up, and whilst the car had MOT, its not going to pass the next one (end of this month) easily.

Really cars that have been sat are not an easy job.

Still as ive nothing better to do with my time Ive sorted the Rallye out now, and thanks to getting a great deal when buying it, still proves to make me a profit if/when I sell it. This UT does seem to be the perfect next project.

Whatever happens I think I will be getting the car... the next step will be to get the dust cleaned off it and see what the damage is. If it really proves too much effort then I will offer it up to the masses on ebay. I can weld and have a decent welder so its got a good chance though. ;)

Here in the UK we dont (as of yet!:rolleyes: ) have any charges putting a car back on the road. We have a road tax payable every year. If the car isnt on the road then you must SORN it. Which currently is free. This must be done every year. It doesnt matter how long the car has been off road, if you want it back on the road then just MOT, insure and tax it and your legal again.

If I do get start work on this UT, I can assure you I will be making a "project post" detailing it all. I find them useful when Im researching cars, or when I want to see how much work ive done on one of my own.
 
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